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Help with paint brands/ types for coloring water and rocks, portals and such?

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  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: Red Lodge, MT
  • 893 posts
Posted by sfcouple on Tuesday, May 6, 2008 8:30 PM
 firentheft wrote:

Thank you for your replies, I seem to have more of a general understanding and now a sense of direction into what to purchase and from where.

One more question please, it it better to paint the rocks while attached to the mountain or seperately then add them to it later? I was thinking the first choice, because unless the fit perfect, I assume some form plaster will have to used to blend into the mountain side?

Thanks again.

My preference would be to paint the rocks after they are installed.  Send us a photo after your work.

Wayne  

Modeling HO Freelance Logging Railroad.

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Long Island, NY
  • 3 posts
Posted by firentheft on Tuesday, May 6, 2008 7:28 PM

Thank you for your replies, I seem to have more of a general understanding and now a sense of direction into what to purchase and from where.

One more question please, it it better to paint the rocks while attached to the mountain or seperately then add them to it later? I was thinking the first choice, because unless the fit perfect, I assume some form plaster will have to used to blend into the mountain side?

Thanks again.

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: Red Lodge, MT
  • 893 posts
Posted by sfcouple on Monday, May 5, 2008 7:45 PM

I use water base acrylic paints from "Winsor & Newton" Galeria Brand: Raw and Burnt Sienna, Raw and Burnt Umber, all as a wash.  Usually about 1/2g to 1g of paint to 2 ounces of water. However, my initial wash is with a 'light' india ink/alcohol mixture.  I usually apply the I/A wash first and let it dry overnight followed by a wash of raw sienna and or burnt sienna.  Many modelers reverse my procedure and use the acrylic washes first followed by the I/A wash.  I tend to use the umber colors where a darker color is needed, i.e. underneath a rock edge which would normally be in the shadows. An attempt is made to blend all the washes together so there is a natural and gradual transition between all the colors. However, remember that the rock color varies greatly from one region to another so my technique may not be appropriate for your model railroad. 

My best advice would be to experiment, experiment, and then experiment some more on some scrap pieces of casting.  If you are going to use rock molds made from a plaster material, such as hydrocal, then make several molds and try different techniques.  It is important to let the washes dry thoroughly to get an idea of what the final product will look like, and start with a light wash and gradually build up the color.  Also, it would be best to color the rocks under similar lighting that will be used on your layout.

Joe Fugate's excellent website offers a more detailed and thorough explanation than my posting.  

Good Luck,

Wayne 

Modeling HO Freelance Logging Railroad.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Clinton, MO, US
  • 4,261 posts
Posted by Medina1128 on Monday, May 5, 2008 1:20 AM

I use acrylics that come in small bottles at Wal-Mart.. I buy larger bottles of black and antique white (colors that I use a lot of). I dilute them into washes. I then spray a mix of rubbing alcohol. This darkens the cracks. I finish by drybrushing with the antique white. This really works at bringing out the highlight.

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Hershey, Pa.
  • 309 posts
Posted by salt water cowboy on Monday, May 5, 2008 12:15 AM

I agree with the others in that cheap, earth tone acrylics are the way to go. I'de also add that when coloring plaster castings of rocks, use very thin washes of different shades of greys and browns and build up layers of colors. (It's easy to add more paint but very hard to lighten up the tones if you get too dark right off the bat.) Once you are satisfied with the coloring add a wash of india ink and alcohol. That will settle in to the cracks and crevices and make the detail stand out. Then go ahead and drybrush a little white on the tips of rocks and mist with Dull-coat. You should then have nicely colored and weathered rocks!

Cheers!

Matt

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Amish country Tenn.
  • 10,027 posts
Posted by loathar on Monday, May 5, 2008 12:03 AM
The colors SpaceMouse mentioned are good. I will ad that the Woodland Scenics rock stains are excellent! I'm really glad I bought a set. They are more of a stain than a paint and go a long way.
I just get mid priced brush assortments from Wal mart. Water works fine as a thinner for brushing acrylics.
  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
Posted by SpaceMouse on Sunday, May 4, 2008 11:33 PM
A lot has to do with how well you mix color. I'm a fan of artist's acrylics. Of those, I like the Liquidex in th squeeze bottles rather than the tubes because it isn't quite so think. The colors I use most are white, black, grey, burnt sienna, burnt umber, taupe, sienna, red oxide, and umber. I have a set of 20 small tubes of artist acrylic for mixing other colors like for clothing, etc.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Long Island, NY
  • 3 posts
Help with paint brands/ types for coloring water and rocks, portals and such?
Posted by firentheft on Sunday, May 4, 2008 11:23 PM

Hello, all 1st timer here and have been reading and have been overwhelmed with the knowledge in the forums for weeks, Thanks to you all! Now onto the question - I've got the foam base down, WS risers and inclines in, now up to the river under the bridge part.

Anyone have any guidance on purchasing paints, meaning using Woodland Scenics or another modeling brand  or am I better buying paint at the local Michael's craft store and if so which brand? Also I would like to stick with water based aryclic's.

Which colors should I purchase?

Brush sizes and other supplies needed? thinners?

Look forward for your assistance.

Kevin

HO scale, DCC on order.

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