As you know I do not like the track planning software. The plan your are referring to is a composite of other track plans I found else where in this forum. The yard section and wye are the only parts of the picture even produced with planning software. The rest of the picture has been drawn by me or by using "Paintshoppro" photo editing software to reproduce a tidbit or other bit of the track plan. I am very comfortable with this software and play with it everyday editing photos for amusement. The picture has had extensive editing, there is not one square inch of it that I have not changed in some way some how. It was done as a guide to help me visualize what the track would look like.
The tracks on module #3 with the 22" and 23" radius will not be that radius when built as they will be formed using flextrack and adjusted accordingly. I am about as close as one can get to being a true McGiever. (sorry can't spell the shows name) I do not see the world as most people do. I can see something and in my mind's eye I can turn it upside down, inside out and flip it over, it's a trick I learned in high school drafting class. As I get older and have more time to do what I want. I have had two strokes and it changed my outlook on life. Now I just do what makes me happy and if working didn't help me to do that I could be a bum and be just as happy. I think it will be fun to get into kitbashing as I did not take the time before to do so and let my mind wonder.
Basically I look at life this way, "If you are not enjoying your life change it. Stop sitting there running your mouth and do something. Good or bad, just do something. Buy a sports car, walk into an Ice cream shop and buy everyone a round of ice cream. Plant a tree. Take the time to see everything as if for the first time. And for Gods sack, Do Not tell that bumble bee he can't fly." Dang that was deep.
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
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jbinkley60 wrote:In module 2 you have a 22" radius and a 23" radius track parallel to each other. In HO scale this will be too close.
In module 2 you have a 22" radius and a 23" radius track parallel to each other. In HO scale this will be too close.
Not necessarily. If he places a short tangent (minimum 4"≠) between the 23" curve and the top turnout, it should work, and it appears that he has done that.
Johnnny_reb wrote: Spacemouse, here the whole layout basically. Module #6 maybe moved.
Spacemouse, here the whole layout basically. Module #6 maybe moved.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Slaps forehead! OH now I see said the blind man. Thanks Stein.
Chuck and Elmer, thinks for the input I can see now that my new "Dremel" will be getting a workout. I only have to pickup a few of the reinforced cutting wheels and some goggles. I wonder how fast I can run throw the popcorn disc before I run out? Glad I have 213' of flextrack to practice with.
Oh btw the benchwork is up and standing. The only thing is if I decide weather to put module #6 off of module #3 as a 24" x 72" or make it come off module #4 as a 48" x 48" into the center of the room. If I lose the turning wye and bring module #6 off of the center of module #4 I would gain 16 square foot of benchwork space instead of 4.5 square feet and also maybe put a helix in it down to a lower staging section under module #5.
I think I should leave module #6 to phase two of my benchwork for now and just stick with getting the yard layout worked out for now and lay some temporary tracks to get trains up and running.
Note to self; Pickup safety goggles, some reinforced cutoff wheels and a workbench of some kind?
Johnnny_reb wrote: I'm using "Atlas Mark 3 Custom Line #4 Turnouts" as I have over 40 of them on hand (all new old stock [been in a box waiting to be used for a few years] )
I'm using "Atlas Mark 3 Custom Line #4 Turnouts" as I have over 40 of them on hand (all new old stock [been in a box waiting to be used for a few years] )
So, an actual (but unstated) design given was "must use Atlas Mark 3 Custom Line turnouts".
Atlas Mark 3 Custom Line #4 Code 100 turnouts have a slightly different geometry than the Peco Small Code 75 Turnouts I was using for the plan I made.
Either change track libraries in your track planning software to reflect what track you are planning to use, or just lay the track out and adjust things as needed, using a pair of cutters and some flextrack to remove or add track as needed.
Using Peco code 75 libraries and Peco code 75 track, I did not have to cut down any of my turnouts when it came to laying track.
Smile, Stein
I think that you will find that if you use your actual track pieces for fitting up any complicated track work, it will always differ just a little bit from the software versions. It is all going to depend on how it works for you and your application. The NMRA has some Standards and Recommended Practices that should be relied on before any manufacturers diagrams or software. Go to this link and you can download a wealth of information.
http://www.nmra.com/standards/sandrp/consist.html
Just pick and choose what you want. Two inches center to center sounds about right for straight sections. You are always going to have to cut sections to make things fit in most cases, so don't rely on pre-cut sections as sold by the manufacturer. The sooner you learn how to do it and get it right, the better off you will be later on for your other modules and layouts. When you do cut those track sections, you will need a small file to de-bur the ends of each cut rail so they are not so rough and will slip in the rail joiners.
When I lay track, I lay it out the way I think it should be first, and I do what works for me. Standards and things are good, but if I see something that I don't like, I am going to change it. BUT, before I make thoes changes permanet, I am going to test the track arrangement by running some equipment through it, just in case I missed something.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Carefully measure one of your Atlas #4 turnouts. You'll probably discover it's more like a #4.5.
Track planning software is nice for preliminary planning, but, No small-scale track plan ever survives first contact between track and roadbed! The best way to make sure you haven't designed the impossible is to take the actual components and flop them down on a flat surface, then do real-world measurements. Since you already have the turnouts, that should simplify your life considerably.
By, "Flat surface," I don't mean that you have to build your benchwork and roadbed first. A sheet of plastic foam (which you will need later anyway) laid on a folding table or across the backs of some chairs is adequate for such test-laying. If you put paper on it, you can mark your final configuration and end up with a perfect tracklaying template. I use cardstock, and leave it as a permanent part of my right-of-way.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on cardstock track templates.)
I have begun test fitting track and with no straight track between the turnouts on the yard the track spacing is just under 2" or a scale 14.25'. Now by reading the "2nd edition Atlas Layout HO Scale Railroads" book by John H. Armstrong and Thaddeus Stepek. I understand that by adding 1" of straight track at each joint of the #4 turnout ladder I gain 1/4" of spacing between the yard tracks. And I know that I need at less a 2 3/16 piece of straight track between the last two turnout on the right end of the yard on the main if no other straight track is used.
Stein if you or someone could double check what I'm running into that would be wonderful as I am having trouble using the track planning software.