I'm just beginning in the hobby, and after reading for a while on this forum and other resources, I thought I'd throw up what I've dug myself into and see what other more experienced hobbiests think.
I'd appreciate any feedback folks might have before I get too deep, especially if you see a major "duh" that I haven't picked up yet on.
I have a site for it located here
My idea has been to work up a small layout that I can break a few times before I begin construction on "the big one"; sadly I've already gone through that process a bit so far. I've learned a fair bit, from track laying to soldering, and now I've recently discovered that not all magnetic couplers from different manufacturers are created equal.
Thanks you in advance for your help!
Scarpia
I'm trying to model 1956, not live in it.
Thanks for your kind comments. And yeah, I just started re-installing couplers on all my models with new KDs.
I think your doing the right thing! I have been building a 3x5 N "test" layout before I build my next one and the experience is proving invaluable. I have refined my benchwork and track laying. I have not yet started scenery.. next week if I can finally finish the backdrop.. but if it follows like the rest it will be a great learning experience!
I look forward to seeing more pics as you move along!
Chris
Yep. You are doing the right thing by building a test layout.
I wouldn't buy any more kits until you see how you will be with building them. The engine house is nice, but I would consider it an "advanced" kit. The Resin car kits are also "advanced". So get those built and then you will be able to asses your skills for advanced projects. If they are a little too hard for you now, you can always get plastic ones until your skills improve. If you take extra care with them, paint and weathering, they will look almost as good.
On your test layout, build hills with rock outcroppings and cliff faces, retaining walls, trees and bushes, bare ground, roads, water, and a bridge or two. These seem to be the most common things that every model RR has, and by building them, you will gain the experience that you seek.
I think K-dee couplers are the way to go also. You can also experiment with uncoupling magnets. I use under-the-track ones (308 I think). I cut them in half, both to save money, and because with today's smooth running locos and refined control systems they don't have to be as big as they come in the package. If done right, they do work as advertised, but you do have to get the alignment correct. I know a lot of modelers prefer to do their uncoupling by hand, but I do use the magnets in the hard to reach areas, and they do work good.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
That's great advice, thanks. I think you bring up some excellent ideas on how to broaden my skills.
I did misspoeak to some degree; I'm new to this hobby, but not the modeling one. I have a fair amout of experience with both resin models and scratchbuilding in other genres, so I know enough to not rush those builds. I have to say though, the engine house kit seems very well designed. I'm looking forward to getting started. The F & C cars I've held off so far, as I'm not sure on the process of actually mounting the trucks to the frame. I haven't had the time to do any research on that yet.
Interesting ides on the undert track magnets. I already have some in place, but I'l make note of that in the future.
Thanks again!
This looks great. I love the documentation, and you will too later on, to refer back to, and to enjoy reliving the journey. I too am building a test (refresher for me) layout, with the new and relearned skills to be applied to the next, bigger and better, more outlanding, making my wife wonder if I am nutty, project.
Please continue to document and share. This is exciting. Rick
Scarpia,
Nice work on your test layout. I've done almost the same thing with my practice 4x8 layout. I've accumulated about 40 structure kits with 22 of them already built and weathered. I've also been buying DCC/sound equipped locomotives and rolling stock kits. Almost everything I buy fits within the context of my plan, although sometimes an impulse buy sneaks in there.
Since it's taken me a lot longer to finish off my basement than originally planned, the practice layout gives me a place to put my stuff and try it out - although it really looks silly sitting there all crammed together.
Looks great. I have one suggestion for your test layout. Although probably too late, I would move your siding at the bottom and make the track coming out of the turnout longer, allowing more space between the main and the siding. This way, you can put your depot there. I saw something similar on a layout once and it looked really cool. Just my 2 cents
By the way, I love the overall track plan, and it makes me want to tear down the shelf layout and build a 4x8.
@ jblackwelljr
Sounds like we're in the same boat! It's hard not to buy things as you see them, so the test layout is helping scratch that itch some what. I hope you post up your main layout.
Cheers!
The only suggestion I would make would be to get some Micro Engineering bridge track to use on your bridge.
It has longer, square ties that are spaced more closely together, and also comes with the smaller code rail for the inside guardrails.
Otherwise, looks like you're really enjoying yourself!
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
Funny you mention that, wm3798. I actually do have some, just wanted to get the bridge painted up before I tackled that. As the bridge is almost done (from a painting standpoint, I'm going to put some track down this week
One quick question - how do you affix the track to the bridge? just CA?
And I'm having a blast. I'll be kind of bummed when this one is done.
Thanks in advance.
CA works fine. You'll want to provide some weight or clamps to secure the track while it cures though.
I've been progressing on my test layout (updates at www.garbo.org/MRR) but I'm a bit stumped with the ME Bridge Track.
How do you affix the guard rails on the inside? The package included barrels and their stands, and some other long looking plastic tie pieces. Do these run parallel to the rails, and do the guard rails sit on top?
Thanks for any help you might be able to offer.
I use CA to secure the guard rails, and the long pieces run along the outside ends of the ties. Refer to my photo posted previously. The best way to do it is to hold the rail in place with one hand, and apply a drop or two of glue every couple of inches to the base of the rail. Capillary action will pull the glue between the rail and the ties to form a bond...but be careful not to glue your finger to the rail! (this will impede rail traffic!) Once those drops bond, go back and add a drop of glue at each tie to really secure it.
The guard rail should be bent inward at the ends, and filed down to a taper to prevent interfering with coupler pins and the like.
Note that the guard rails extend beyond the bridge structure.
Ok, thanks. So the long pieces hold the outside of the ties together, and the guard rails just sit on top of the ties themselves. I was thinking i was missing something, as the ME track is so detailed that I presumed there was another set of cleats on the inside of the ties to slide the track into.
I won't be able to extend the guard rails too far past my bridge due to a turn out location, but I'll see if I can get it to look right.
On the N scale version of the bridge track there is a row of tie plates that help hold the guardrails into position. Is that not present on yours?
I have to say that if that's your first crack at building a layout, you've done a fantastic job.
@ WM3798 - I didn't see them, but I'll look closer, when I get home. Thanks.
@Rolleiman - Thanks for your kind comments!
wm3798 wrote:On the N scale version of the bridge track there is a row of tie plates that help hold the guardrails into position. Is that not present on yours?Lee
Nope. I finally got a close up look at it, and while there is something, it doesn't seem like a row of plates. Perhaps I got a bad mold?
I've made some progress, including cutting the ME bridge track to fit. I've included a shot, what I'm not seeing are the places to mount the guard rails. Am I blind?
Take a look at your own photo after you click on it. Look in the second open bay near the left rail of the left track. I see two rows of small pin-like protrousions paralleling the rail. The guard rail should fit in them. Sometimes things like that are hard to see on the first time around with something new.
Also, another type of glue to use for holing the guard rail and bridge track down is Walthers Goo, but you do have to becareful with it not to get too much.
Ok, so I am blind
I was expecting a bit more, but thanks. I'll try running some guard rails this weekend.
I got the guard rails in place, they do snap in, thanks for your help. They are hard to see though...
Elsewhere, I've been working on terrain. I almost have the water feature ready to pour
and my "test" corner of my "test" layout is starting to shape up a bit.
I also got a new loco from eBay, need to DCC it.
The work on your layout is comming along great,Keep it up!!
JIM
I'm moving ahead with this test layout, and finished my water feature. I, probably mistakenly for this application, used this product
After painting the bottom, and scenicking the edges, I melted my bag, and poured
It didn't quite cover the area I had expected. So I hoofed it over to my local game store that I knew had a couple of bags, and got another one.
It also didn't cover as I had expected.
So back to the store, and I bought out their remaining two bags.
Once home, I melted this batch, and added a squirt of brown acryllic paint (apple bottom), which made the mixture immediately froth in the pot. I thought I had just ruined it, but the froth settled out, and I poured the mixture on.
While this wasn't quite the effect I was going for, it does look a bit like the rivers and ponds in this area in mid-summer - there is often a lot of "things" like foam on the surface on slow moving water.
I had prepared the area thinking the water would level and flow, but this stuff hardens so fast, it doesn't get a chance. You can see here how it makes it's own edge.
I brought the shoreline to the water in this case with more modeling sand. Overall, I'm not displeased with the results.
But I think this product is best used for smaller areas.
Cheers
Scarpia wrote:I'm moving ahead with this test layout, and finished my water feature. I, probably mistakenly for this application, used this product After painting the bottom, and scenicking the edges, I melted my bag, and poured It didn't quite cover the area I had expected. So I hoofed it over to my local game store that I knew had a couple of bags, and got another one.It also didn't cover as I had expected.So back to the store, and I bought out their remaining two bags.Once home, I melted this batch, and added a squirt of brown acryllic paint (apple bottom), which made the mixture immediately froth in the pot. I thought I had just ruined it, but the froth settled out, and I poured the mixture on.While this wasn't quite the effect I was going for, it does look a bit like the rivers and ponds in this area in mid-summer - there is often a lot of "things" like foam on the surface on slow moving water. I had prepared the area thinking the water would level and flow, but this stuff hardens so fast, it doesn't get a chance. You can see here how it makes it's own edge.I brought the shoreline to the water in this case with more modeling sand. Overall, I'm not displeased with the results.But I think this product is best used for smaller areas.Cheers
Even if it didnt turn out the way you wanted, it looks awesome. Mike
Scarpia wrote: I'm moving ahead with this test layout, and finished my water feature. I, probably mistakenly for this application, used this product
We typically call our models of water what they represent, i.e., lake, river, stream, etc.
Also, you're gonna be in trouble with Harry Hotspur for not making them all blue on your layout.