Layout floors

[Lillen]

Hi,

 

As some of you know I'm smack in the middle of building my layout room. Progress have been better then expected and I'm making good time. Now my question is this. What do you guys use a floor material? Vinyl, paint or carpet? Carpet floors are not that common around here and most people seems to think it's a BAD idea to put in to the train room. What do you guys think? The cost is not much so I can do it. I'm kind of tempted since I will be barefoot all the time in the train room(we take of our shoes in Sweden when we are indoors). But what about dust? Do the carpet create dust? Is it easy to get sawdust out from it? What kind of carpet? I have no idea since I've never lived in an house with carpeted floors, we have regular carpets in our house but no carpeted floors and so I'm clueless.

 

Magnus

[gshin]

Hi Magnus,

I've decided to go with carpet after agonizing for a long time.  Reason?  My floor is concrete and my feet and ankles hurt a lot after standing on concrete floors.  In my case, the floor was not so level in several spots, so a hard surface would have showed these areas badly.

I used a wall-to-wall carpet meant for offices so that things would still roll well on it.  I don't believe that modern carpet generates dust, so that shouldn't be an issue unless you never vaccuum!   I have had no problem getting sawdust up, but you do have to cover it while doing scenery.

Here are a couple of shots of my carpet under the benchwork:  

 

Kind Regards,

Greg

 

[gandydancer19]

I would use vynal.  It is easier to keep clean while working on the layout.  (Can you wear slippers in the house? (Like bedroom slippers)).  Once the layout is done, you can lay down a carpet or rug.  That is what I am going to do once my layout gets past the heavy construction stage.

[tomikawaTT]

Right now, my layout room floor is sealed concrete, dotted here and there with old throw rugs (exiled from the living spaces by my wife.)  If I was in your situation I would install a commercial grade low-pile carpet (single, neutral color) over a thick carpet pad.

The low pile and single color should make the inevitable hunt for dropped parts easier.  Both your feet and any dropped rolling stock will appreciate the thick carpet pad.  A quality vacuum cleaner with a carpetbeater attachment will keep the dust problem to a minimum without making cleaning into a major operation.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[stebbycentral]

Obviously you want to avoid carpet if you have had issues with dampness in the train room.  Otherwise I don't see a problem as long as you avoid shag.  You want something with a very short nap, because you know you are going to spend X% of your time down there on your hands and knees looking for that wayward coupler spring or the wheel set that popped loose from the truck.  You would also want something with a nice thick backing, for comfort. 

Vinyl and painted concrete are hard on the feet, and especially hard on the knees if you have to crawl under the benchwork to install or fix something subterranian.  One option that we have in the USA that may or may not be available in your country is rubberized mat material.  It's sold for use in garages, workshops, and fitness centers.  I have it under my benchwork and I just love it.  It's very easy on the knees.

[pkeppers]

I'm using interlocking foam rubber mat.  It is about $.75 per square foot and comes in 2' X 2' pieces.

[Lillen]

The floors are made of wood and I do not expect any problems with moisture. I live in a dry area and the house is up on pillars allowing the wind to get underneath it. I'm going to check out what carpets cost. I've seen them from as low as 10$ per square meter but I will try to find one that is nice to stand on for a few hours.

 

I could wear slippers, I do that in my own house some times but I prefer having nothing on my feet at all.

 

Magnus

[camaro]

I painted the concrete with a light gray concrete paint.  Its easy to vacuum and wet mop with a household cleaner and I'm not worried about getting anything on it.  This summer I will paint it again and it will be as good as new.  If we decided to move it could become and office for someone, so I don't want to be locked into carpet or vinyl. 

If I decide to get out of model railroading, I will  ceramic tile around the perimeter walls so it will butt up to the baseboard trim and carpet the center of the room.

Larry

 

 

[Lateral-G]

I was in the same situation you're in a month and a half ago.

I went with a berber from Home depot. Installed it and the padding myself. You just have to make sure you protect it when gluing and painting. Also vaccuum frequently to control dust getting into the pile.

-G- 

 

[Lillen]

Hi,

 

What is a berber?

 

Magnus

[ARTHILL]

Berber is a style of carpet weave.

I went with carpet and love it. I loose parts on a concrete floor as well, but the carpet looks good, is nice on my feet, is easy on dropped things and vacs up nicely. It also looks better between cleanings.

[Don Z]

Magnus,

I have carpet on the floor in my train room because I am building my layout inside my house. I have had to take extreme precautions to keep the carpet clean while building. Most of the time while working on the layout I have had the carpet covered with plastic to protect it from plaster, paint, glue and all of the other wonderful things that would love to ruin the carpet. If I was starting from scratch on the room, I would probably install hardwood floors.

Don Z.

[loathar]

Carpet in a dry area can generate static. (a possible problem)
It IS great for sound deadening!
Like Don said, I'd be more worried about getting paint and plaster  on it than sawdust.

[Lateral-G]

Hi,

 

What is a berber?

 

Magnus

 

It is a type of carpet weave. Very tight, wears well and was rather inexpensive.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berber_carpet

 

hth

 

-G- 

[CascadeBob]

When I finished my train room in the basement of our new house I cleaned the new concrete floor thoroughly with detergent, primed it with Behr brand (Home Depot) concrete primer and put two coats of Behr Concrete Stain down on top of the primer.  So far it's held up well.  I'm going to leave the floor as painted concrete until I finish the messy parts of the layout construction and then put down either carpet runners or 2' square interlocking foam tiles in the aisles.  Since there will be a skirt around the edges of the layout to hid the parts under the bench work, I see no need for any floor covering under the layout.  The bench work is built high (56" off the floor) and I'll use a reclining desk chair on casters to move around under the bench work when wiring, etc.

Bob

[Medina1128]

Hi,

 

What is a berber?

 

Magnus

You're joking, right? A berber is the guy that cuts your hair.

[jamnest]

My layout is located in the basement.  I had the painting contractor paint the walls and floor with a good quality concret paint.  The painted surface seems to keep the dust down.  My wife does not permit wearing shoes in the house (carpet and hardwood floors), and it is too hard on the feet to stand on the concreet floor.  I keep a pair of athletic shoes with velcro straps for me to wear in the basement.  They are easy to slip off and on.  I have had water in the basement twice due to unseasonal heavy rain, so I am glad the floor is only painted.  The water problem is being fixed by some additional landscaping to keep water away from the house foundation.

When the layout gets to the point of operating sessions, I will purchase two 15' runners to put down on the floor to get my guests from the front door to the basemnt and not worry about dirt or damage to the house floors.

[Beach Bill]

The previous layout was in a basement with a painted concrete floor.  I thought that was the best for locating fallen parts, but a concrete floor also collects dust that can be stirred up.

The new house came with carpet other than in the kitchen and bath areas.  I put a heavy vynal "office chair carpet protector" in front of the workbench and thus still have a smooth surface for finding most of the small items that come loose during construction.  The carpet is pleasant for other work on the layout.  I use a drop cloth in the work area when doing things that have a high liklihood of creating a mess for the carpet - like plastering, painting the fascia, or installing ballast.    The new arrangement seems to work fine.

Bill

[BurbankAV]

Interestingly, I've gone the other direction -- I started with a fully carpeted room, but opted out of carpet.  I covered the carpet with two layers of Masonite, and the operating area has an additional layer of the aforementioned rubber tiles.

Since someone will ask... I eliminated the carpet for a few reasons: by leaving it in place but covering it, it will still be in good condition if we choose to sell the house.  Also, I'm a klutz: I know I'll be dropping stuff left and right, and the only way I'll find anything is by hearing it hit the ground.  (Yes, even a coupler spring is audible if you're listening for it...)  And, finally, the Masonite is really easy to clean up: glue, paint, whatever, just wipes off.  So my limited train time can be focused on glue and paint, and not plastic or canvas sheeting...

So that's my take on the question....

 

Peter 

[Lillen]

I have considered just painting the wood floor. It is made out of 22mm(almost an inch) thick particleboard(I think you guys call it that). It would be very easy to clean and dust free.  I'm gonna think about this. A carpet would look nice and feel warm and soft during the long winters.

 

Magnus

[loathar]

When I finished my train room in the basement of our new house I cleaned the new concrete floor thoroughly with detergent, primed it with Behr brand (Home Depot) concrete primer and put two coats of Behr Concrete Stain down on top of the primer.  So far it's held up well.  I'm going to leave the floor as painted concrete until I finish the messy parts of the layout construction and then put down either carpet runners or 2' square interlocking foam tiles in the aisles.  Since there will be a skirt around the edges of the layout to hid the parts under the bench work, I see no need for any floor covering under the layout.  The bench work is built high (56" off the floor) and I'll use a reclining desk chair on casters to move around under the bench work when wiring, etc.

Bob

They have 2 part epoxy floor paints out now that are real nice! You don't have to mess with primers or acid cleaners/etches anymore. Just sweep the floor, mix the paint and roll it on. They are self leveling and give a smooth, durable finish. Around $75 to do a 300 sq.ft. area.(two gallons) 

[ham99]

I had commercial carpet under my layout when I built it, and I hated it.  I lost parts -- especially MTL coupler springs -- in the pile and melted it with dropped solder.  I also had a problem with moisture along one outside wall.  So finally I tore it out and replaced it with interlocking tile, the kind that can be removed and reused.  The fingers just snap together.  It is ridged on the bottom to provide an airspace under it, and it has enough give to be easier on my feet than bare concrete.  It is easy to clean, and individual tiles can be replaced if you should damage one.  It is the same product that is used for temporary flooring at car shows and trade shows.  I'm very happy with it.  The only drawbacks are price and noise -- the carpet was quieter.

[jawnt]

Magnus,

As one who spent most of my working life in computer rooms on concrete and raised floors with and without carpet --- forget carpet as far as looking for dropped small parts and trying to keep it looking clean.  Since you already have a wooden floor that is appearently well insulated and you prefer to work barefooted, I would go with painting or sealing your existing flooring. No carpet, no rubber mats, no problem rolling chairs, cabinets, stools ect. around.

Any way you look at it, a wood floor is much easier on the feet and legs than concrete any day. When I built my current wood working shop, I went with a wood floor and haven't looked back.   Just cowpasture thoughts ---- John T.

[ham99]

I had another problem with carpet.  I use a rolling office chair at my workbench, and the carpet stretched under the rollers -- eventually tearing through.  I removed the carpet from my computer room, too, because it had oak flooring beneath it.  No more problems with static electricity.  The rest of the house is carpeted [except for the kitchen and baths], and I would gladly get rid of all of it.  Allergies would be much improved.  But my wife won't hear of it.

[tgindy]

Berber is a style of carpet weave.

We have "berber" carpet in the bedrooms, and it does wear well and is very sturdy.  The one caveat is that if you pull one of the fibers, say at the room's edge,the sturdy & thick carpet will pull out in a string-like appearance almost like a string of yarn.

I had not thought about "berber" for the layout room but it would make an excellent floor surface.  Based upon carpet-staining experience, it would certainly be a darker shade as a safeguard.

You could also have some padding underneath, and the "berber" is strong enough to still lend a "hard-enough" surface for chairs.  It wears very well.

[Lillen]

There seems to be good arguments for all versions. A though I have been thinking alot about is leaving the floor as it is, just paint it to look in dust and then have normal carpets where I walk like inside my own house. Advantages of that is many, it's cheap, it's warm where it's needed. I can take the carpets outside now and then and beat them so the dust disappears and I can be less careful with glue and pain directly under the layout. Any particularly messy jobs can be done with just removing the carpets.

 

Hmmm. I will have to think some more. I'm gonna check out what kind of rugs would be suitable in that case, something soft but not to long fibres. Anyone knows if IKEA got something suitable?

 

Magnus

[Bill54]

We have burber carpet in the basement where I have my layout.  Burber carpet is a continuous loop type carpet.  It vacuums up nicely.  It is very durable on floors. 

I do not suggest putting it on stairs.  Although it wears well, when put on stairs it tends to wear more and crush in the areas where you walk and it looks like it's soiled when it is not. 

If I had a choice I would have had either hardwood or linoleum on the layout room floor.  One problem with any carpet is that the benchwork will eventually sink into the carpet and it makes it difficutl to maintain level benchwork. 

My layout is 16'X 14' with an island in the center.  The bechwork took a few weeks to settle to where I could level it up properly.  If I had a hard floor it could have been done immediately.  Just something to think about.

One of the pluses is it is comfortable to walk around barefooted and it's warm in the colder months.

Bill 

[HarryHotspur]

Don't your feet get cold?

[Capt. Grimek]

Gshin (Greg) Your benchwork is gorgeous! What wood is that you're using? Is it custom built or built by yourself?

Bolt Spikes Through Carpet for quicker leveling:
A few folks around here have been using spikes on the bottom of their height adjustment bolts to have them bite down through the carpet padding to the floor and get the layout to level out fairly quickly.

Anyone here used them? Do you like that method?

Know of a source? My friends' have made theirs by welding a spike or nail to the bottom of a lag bolt.
I'm not set up for brazing or welding...

Anything commercially available from furniture supply houses/Home Depot, etc.
I've been having trouble finding T nuts to put into the bottom of the wood legs to receive the bolt, too.
I thought H.D. would have them but no joy so far.

[dante]

Both HD and Lowe's in our area have "caster cups" of plastic (one has round; one has square) that have a field of short spikes on their bottoms for use over carpet.  These should spread the load somewhat and minimize carpet depression under the benchwork legs.