Still working on the layout and have decided to replace Atlas snap switches with Tortoises.....Looking for your help to be certain that I get it right!
I have read the instructions a couple of times but have some questions and/or looking for validation...it is an n-gauge setup
1. it would be best to remove switch, drill hole in the middle of the tie for the actuation wire.....am I right on this? Would it be just as easy to use the throwbar and have the actuation wire outside the rails?
2. in reading the wiring diagram (and getting advice from my LHS), czn I use the Atlas momentary switches to activiate the Tortoises? How would the wiring look for tha setup?
3. the hole for the actuation wire should be anout 1/4"?
4. Finally, I have three crossovers(i.e. a pair of switches to allow the trains to move from one man to aother).....as I understand it, each switch needs its own tortoise.....however, can the two Tortoises be wired together to move the switches in tandem?
So those are my questions for now.....and assistance or advice will be appreciated.
Sam
1> You can have the Tortoise drive the throwbar with no problem. Trying to drill a hole with the turnout installed is a nightmare.
2> Throw away the Atlas momentary slide switches and get some small SPDT or DPDT toggles with NO center off position. You want power to the Tortoise in the 'stall' position. They only draw about 17-18 ma in 'stall' mode.
3> This depends on how thick your subroadbed/roadbed is. My subroadbed is 1/2" plywood, with 1/4" Homabed on top of that(HO). I have a 3/8" hole for the wire. If you have thicker material, you may need a larger hole or stiffer wire(take the actuator wire to a LHS and get the next size higher).
4> I have a crossover with a 'coupled' linkage so that a single Tortoise drives both. If you use a single Tortoise for each turnout of the crossover, you can use the same toggle to power both Tortoise machines. I power the entire layout's Tortoises with a single 'Wall Wart' power supply(12V/850 ma) - That is enought power for over 50 Totoise motors!
Jim Bernier
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Jim,
Thanks for the guidance.....I'mooking forward to using your advice and getting the project started.....I dif figure out that taking the turnouts off the layout is the only way to do it and maintain your sanity....
One more question.....I purchased an old layout and it has two dozen dtdp with the center off position......would those work if I simply switched left or right and did not use the center off position.....seems like it would work.
Sam,
Those 'center off' DPDT toggles will work. Just remember to throw them all the way so that the motor 'stalls' and cannot creep back due to no power applied.
Hi
My railroad club replaces the wire with thicker piano wire. You can find this at
your nearest hobby shop. I think it's .39 wire.
sincerely,
Chris
crisco1 wrote: Hi My railroad club replaces the wire with thicker piano wire. You can find this at your nearest hobby shop. I think it's .39 wire. sincerely, Chris
(0.039") It comes in 3 foot lengths, several per tube. I have used up to .045 for special purposes. you will need to enlarge the fulcrum hole in the tortoise.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
You can use the existing hole in the side of the throw bar. Drilling a new one in the center might compromise the stability of the connections between the points and the throwbar.
My sub roadbed is 1" thick. I use a 3/8" hole and the stock actuator rod with no problems.
Hint: Install the tortoise with the rod full length, then trim it back after you're satisfied with the alignment of everything...
I use DPST micro switches to run mine.
Same thing on the power supply. Mine's an old transformer from a cordless phone.
If you're using Atlas code 55, make sure you wire the frogs to the power routing switch in the tortoise. Completely eliminates stalls.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net