I guess the question is how much is a lot, and how old is old?
The best way to find out if you have a problem might be to pick up a bit of code 55 and test it! I have read that a screwdriver run along the spikes can "fix" a lot of problems, without damaging the track. I have not tried it, so I don't have firsthand experience.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Thanks for the reply. I do have a length of code 55 that I have tried and that is how I found out about the 'pizza cutters'. I only have 4 old (35 years) steamers with the deep flange, and about 40 cars. All of the stuff that I have collected in the last 2 years or so have the shallow flange, about .020". The flanges on the older stuff are about .040". The only reason that I would want to run the older units is naustalgia. They were run by my kids, and still run great. Now the grand kids get a chanun them. I am thinking that I will probably go with code 55 and park the older units.
Thanks for your input.
John
Thanks for the reply. I have been leaning hard toward code 55 (Atlas) and I guess that I just needed a little shouve in that direction. Thanks for your input.
I didn't know about code 70 I'll have to look into that. The paint idea sounds like it might work better than I had thought. Thanks.
There is some code 70 track on this page:
http://wig-wag-trains.com/Micro-Eng/Micro-Engineering-Track_Product-Page.htm
I don't know if anyone other than ME makes it. And I wonder how long it will be around, now that code 55 is readily available. But that's just speculation on my part.
Code 55 has greater prototypical appearance, and Code 80 is just rock solid in reliability. For example: Some modelers will use Code 55 for "scenic trackage," and; Code 80 for "hidden trackage" when trouble-free operations is the goal for tunnels, or staging without scenery concerns.
So, just a little observation by looking at the Atlas website...
Print out the web pages to easily review them and then ask yourself:
Which track code makes more sense as to availabilty? And as to price? Then fitting into your track plan radius requirements? Do you want to use sectional and/or flex track? ...etc.
Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956
If you can't raise the bridge, lower the river.
Since you are only facing problems with four units, why not turn down the flanges on the drivers of those four units? I have done this with some really horrible HO pizza-cutter drivers, simply by placing the unit on its back and applying GENTLE pressure with a flat file. Rocking the file rounds the flange, and the result will track through turnouts made with the smaller rail you prefer.
Before you start, check to make sure that the shavings you produce will be non-magnetic. It is also possible to pack tissue paper into the frame openings to prevent the shavings from getting up inside the superstructure. Once you finish, make sure the loose material is all cleaned out of the locomotive.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with file-reduced flanges)
Thanks for the links to Atlas track. I will be using flex track. I was thinking to use code 55 in the rail yards, but maybe that would be the worst place for it, thinking of reliability. The finer turnouts may be more finiky......
That sounds doable on the drivers, but how does one turn the pilot and trailing wheels?
tomikawaTT wrote:If you can't raise the bridge, lower the river.Since you are only facing problems with four units, why not turn down the flanges on the drivers of those four units? I have done this with some really horrible HO pizza-cutter drivers, simply by placing the unit on its back and applying GENTLE pressure with a flat file. Rocking the file rounds the flange, and the result will track through turnouts made with the smaller rail you prefer.Before you start, check to make sure that the shavings you produce will be non-magnetic. It is also possible to pack tissue paper into the frame openings to prevent the shavings from getting up inside the superstructure. Once you finish, make sure the loose material is all cleaned out of the locomotive.Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with file-reduced flanges)
To further what Chuck said, if you're worried about the engines having problems with their flanges, start by taking the shell off. Apply power directly to the motor, and then use the file to smooth down the wheels. You can change how much comes off the flange by adjusting the speed of the motor and keeping consitant and equal pressure on the file.
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You can purchase replacement wheel sets for your older rolling stock, or get the MT replacement trucks and couplers with low profile wheels included. Code 55 track will work anywhere that code 80 does. The Atlas track system is as easy to work with as their c80 system. With any track, a little care while installing will pay dividends over the long haul.
I've had to turn down some drive wheels, what I do is place two files on a board, secure them with staples, then clip the power from the track to the files. The wheels turn on the files, and the grindings are less likely to get into the mechanism because the engine is upright. To replace the pilot and trailing truck wheels, check some contemporary models and see if it wouldn't be practical to simply replace the the wheelsets and/or trucks.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
Some folks have had trouble with flanges on the Atlas stuff because of the little plastic spike heads that hold the track in place.
My peco code 55 works fine because it doesnt use plastic spike heads to hold track, the rail is just sunk deeper into the ties. Unfortately the tie spacing is british and the track has become very expensive due to the exchange rate difference.
From what I have read, the micro-engineering flex doesn thave the same trouble atlas track has (or had.. havent followed this).
As others have said, pick up some flex of various brands and try out your stuff on them.
Good luck!
Chris