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Another glue question

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  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: THE FAR, FAR REACHES OF THE WILD, WILD WEST!
  • 3,672 posts
Posted by R. T. POTEET on Tuesday, April 22, 2008 4:18 PM

Try a slow setting epoxy or some brand of pliobond. The epoxy, once its down its down! the pliobond, on the other hand, can be reheated as with a clothes iron and becomes pliable again allowing for repositioning if needed. However, I'm not sure just how much heat is necessary to resoften pliobond - I own up that I've only read about this - and it could be that this repositioning technique is not going to work with plastic ties.

From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Eastern Shore Virginia
  • 3,290 posts
Posted by gandydancer19 on Tuesday, April 22, 2008 3:07 PM
I have also used Walthers Goo for this type of trackwork.  I apply it to the bottom of the rail because it is easier than applying it to the ties.  As said before, pre-bend the rail as close to the shape that it needs to be before applying the glue.

Elmer.

The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.

(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.

  • Member since
    May 2007
  • From: North Myrtle Beach, SC
  • 995 posts
Posted by Beach Bill on Tuesday, April 22, 2008 1:03 PM

I've done similar work (bridge/trestle guardrails in Code 70) using Walthers Goo.  This is a rubber-based glue that is slow to set.  It allows flexibility for that adjustment.  The rail should be bent to the approximate correct arc before placement.  Once one is confident of location, you can heat the rail a little by putting a soldering iron atop the rail.  (No solder, and not enough to burn things)  This "cooks" the Goo and sets it firmly.  Of course, spikes can be added as well, but this stuff holds for many years.

The caution with this method is to avoid using too much glue, as it is difficult to remove if it presses out where you do not want it to go.  This glue is a brownish color, so it can be visible.

Bill

With reasonable men, I will reason; with humane men I will plead; but to tyrants I will give no quarter, nor waste arguments where they will certainly be lost. William Lloyd Garrison
  • Member since
    February 2007
  • 50 posts
Another glue question
Posted by roypea on Tuesday, April 22, 2008 11:37 AM

I am building a guide rail (double) on a full section of flex track, 3'.  The flex, over its lenght will make a gentle S-curve, minimum radius will exceed 22". 

I need a glue to attach the Code 83 gurard rail to my Atlas Flex (code 100) that will give me a little bit of working time.  Mostly enough time to get glue down on 30" or so worth of plastic ties, and also enough time to reposition the metal guard rail as required.  I have spacers insalled so placing won't take very long, but some positioning will be required.

 Thanks for your help, and sorry if already asked and answered.

Roypea

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