This is great!
A lot of good workable ideas for me to experiment with.
Dave, thanks for the links - the pictures certainly help out and make life that much easier to understand. I'm one of those guys that works much better off of pictures than just plain text. So thanks to you, I had one less coffee this morning and didn't need to stress too bad over the signal dilemna.
Btw: Thats a mighty nice layout you have there!!!
Thanks for the links Dave; they are just what I've been looking for, I don't need them just yet so have saved them to my favorites for now.
One of the features I plan to include on my layout will be train order signals at several locations along the Thomas Sub. These were lit to indicate if there was an order for a train crew to pick up to determine their clearance for the next segment of track. Like the prototype, I'll have these lights manually operated by the dispatcher.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
stevechurch2222 wrote:Have you looked into the Signal Animator or Block Animator by Logic Rail?They will change colors. The yellow is a time dalay adjustable from 10-30 seconds,before turning back to green.
I use the LogicRail Tech Signal Animators and I wrote a webpage about how I used them:
http://www.thevollmerfamily.com/Pennsy/Projects/signals.html
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
larak wrote: nbrodar wrote: If you're using DC, you can wire two LEDs back to back to indicate the track polarity in the next block.NickDo you mean "in parallel"? I thought that back-to-back was "in series" with the polarity of one reversed. If not, then a quick schematic might be helpful.Karl
nbrodar wrote: If you're using DC, you can wire two LEDs back to back to indicate the track polarity in the next block.Nick
If you're using DC, you can wire two LEDs back to back to indicate the track polarity in the next block.
Nick
Do you mean "in parallel"? I thought that back-to-back was "in series" with the polarity of one reversed.
If not, then a quick schematic might be helpful.
Karl
Here you go...
D1 and D2 are LEDs, usually red and green. I normally use a 470 ohm resistor for R1. NeO is correct you wire the LEDs anode to cathode, and then to a common power source.
The idea is to have the signal show green if the polarity is correct for the train to enter the block and red if not. I also used two head signals at interlockings, with the top head showing track polarity and the bottom head showing turnout position.
The system worked well, if not very prototypically, but it conveyed need track information to the engineer. However, since I'm in the process of switching to DCC this system no longer works. So, I'm looking at the Rail Logic signal animators and a few other possibilities.
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
Well at junctions you could use the signals for turnout indication, so two lines coming together at a turnout would each have a signal. One would be green (for the track the turnout is set to) and the other would be red (that train has to stop, or it will derail at the turnout). You could do something similar for the single line coming into the turnout and branching into two - green for going thru the mainline, red for the diverging line - but technically you should use a two-headed interlocking signal for that situation, so that it could show green-over-red for the mainline or red-over-green for the diverging line. Wouldn't be that hard to wire up if you aren't worried about block indications (i.e. if you don't care that the green signals don't turn red after the train passes).
The other side of the coin would be a block signal with a simple system like say one infra-red beam or between the ties light detector per signal. When a train passes the green signal, it breaks the beam of light and turns the signal red. You can get circuits that have a timer so the light stays red for X seconds after the train is no longer breaking the beam of light, then turns back to red. Nice thing about using light / infra-red is you don't have to modify your equipment (cars, engines etc.).
nbrodar wrote:If you're using DC, you can wire two LEDs back to back to indicate the track polarity in the next block.Nick
I use 3mm bi polar LEDs. One polarity, green, reverse the polarity, red. Use AC voltage instead of DC voltage and you get amber or maybe yellow. I am familiar with electronics so I use an integrated circuit to produce the AC signal. The chip is called a NE555, eight pin device. The signal operates at 5 volts DC with appropiate resistors for theLEDs. Probably more work than you care to do.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
loathar wrote: jeffrey-wimberly wrote:Model Power makes some good looking signals that I'll be installing on my layout soon. Don't those come with a slide switch to change colors? I was thinking about slide or toggles for mine too. I don't want to hastle with block detection either.
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:Model Power makes some good looking signals that I'll be installing on my layout soon.
Model Power makes some good looking signals that I'll be installing on my layout soon.
Don't those come with a slide switch to change colors? I was thinking about slide or toggles for mine too. I don't want to hastle with block detection either.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I think that's the point. If polarity for the track is right you'll get green, if not you'll get red (assuming you choose to use a red and green LED for this)
Assuming I remember my basic electronics correctly (longshot) - you solder the anode of one LED to the cathode of the other, and repeat for the remaining anode/cathode pair, then solder the pair of LEDs to the power source. Because of the way they're paired, this makes a parallel circuit. Series circuit would have black wire soldered anode of led1, cathode of led1 soldered to anode of led2, anode of led2 soldered to red wire (and maybe a resistor on one end) - useful for a double headlight situation in a model.
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Good advice on different techniques all around!
I think I will take a look at the Signal Animator and Block Animator from LRT. It seems like just the thing I'm looking for for bringing a little lighting effect to the layout.
I have two of these. They are great
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Caveat: This is a signal system that doesn't follow most North American prototype!
The Tomikawa Tani Tetsudo, my freelance coal-hauling short line, operates, as did the prototype branch line it vaguely approximates, on the staff-and-ticket system with (nominally cable-actuated) two-position lower-quadrant semaphores. The prototype semaphores were actuated by armstrong levers at the stations. My model semaphores are controlled by rotary switches on the control panels for the various stations. There are no detection circuits, no timers, nothing - just twin-coil actuators under the scenery.
The prototype signals and the station turnouts were mechanically interlocked. I have simulated that with circuitry on the signal actuators and rotary switches. However, that isn't necessary to make the signals work.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I have a number of signals wired up as turnout position indicators. In the subway system, they indicated when the turnout is set correctly for the train to proceed.
Depending on what kind of switch machine you are using, this circuitry may already be provided, or it may require an add-on device. Compared to real block wiring with train detection, though, this sort of signal control is extremely simple.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Is there a cost effective system or method that can be used to change the light colors at random for effect rather than have them stay the same color all of the time?
Connect the LED to a power source. Done.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
I'm looking for an easy and simple alternative to run signals.
I'm not looking to run my signals in a prototypical fashion, however am simply using the signals as more of a scenery effect on my layout. I've seen some pretty complicated set-ups for running signals, however these seem to be systems used for running prototypically through block systems.
All in all, are there any simple set-ups for running LED signals for scenery effect only?