Hi!
What color is rust?? Well, that's a pretty subjective question, with lots of answers. Along those lines I question "what is the color of concrete?" (or dirt, sky, and the like).
Of course concrete, dirt, and the sky have a large range of colors, and rust - in my opinion - a fairly narrow range consisting of a concentration of reds, browns, and yellows with a touch of greys or black. I believe that you wouldn't go too far wrong if you just took your brush and worked with the above - keeping red/orange brown the predominent color, and wafting in a touch of grey or brown.
By the way, Floquil/Testors make a set of weathering colors (ala Sharpie) for doing the rail sids (F3801) and working with the three pens you can come up with some nice shading (easily).
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I always thought that the PERFECT rusted rail color and look was on Bill Gruber's Reading layout that appeared in the... March (?) 1994 MR. The 2nd picture in the article, of a switcher with some coal loads, is the one. I've been trying to replicate that ever since.
I always thought that actual Rust paint looked too red. initially i bought Utility Orange, and I like the overall color, but its a bit too bright. I went over it with some black pastels, and it looked a lot better. I'm planning on mixing the U.O. with some light black and brown washes to see what that gives.
markpierce wrote: rustyrails wrote: dknelson wrote: Dave NelsonThanks Dave. The picture above points out the issue. We (I) think of rust as an orange color but with age it turns to brown as seen in the area surrounding the filler opening above. I agree that we need to play down the red-orange and work toward the brown.Thanks to all,-JohnI see lots of red and orange and little brown (which I only perceive on the lips) in this photo. This goes to prove that people's perceptions of color vary by individual.Mark
rustyrails wrote: dknelson wrote: Dave NelsonThanks Dave. The picture above points out the issue. We (I) think of rust as an orange color but with age it turns to brown as seen in the area surrounding the filler opening above. I agree that we need to play down the red-orange and work toward the brown.Thanks to all,-John
dknelson wrote: Dave Nelson
Dave Nelson
Thanks Dave. The picture above points out the issue. We (I) think of rust as an orange color but with age it turns to brown as seen in the area surrounding the filler opening above.
I agree that we need to play down the red-orange and work toward the brown.
Thanks to all,-John
I see lots of red and orange and little brown (which I only perceive on the lips) in this photo. This goes to prove that people's perceptions of color vary by individual.
Mark
Or that their monitors need to be color adjusted... (I see nothing but orange and brown in that pic)
I hope this is visible.
As several have said, you have to get the color that "looks" right to you. I did not like the rust color one can get in the RR paints either. So, I mixed my own using acrylic paints from Wally world, thinned down, and used the airbrush to do the whole layout.
I also wanted variety. For this I used those marker pens one can purchase that have four colors in them, rust, RR brown etc. I went over in places I thought were too light from the airbrush.
Lastly, I made two mixes of very thin (again acrylic) washes of dark gray and black. I used a 1/2" soft brush to slop this on between the rails and occasionally on the outside ties. This also mottled (can't think of a better word) the rust on the rails in places.
Again, you will have to experiment to get things how you like them.
Regards,
Tom
Here are a few suggestions for rust that have worked for me:
3. Rustall. Applied liberally this gives a nice old rust look. Be sure to dredge up the rust gunk from the bottom of the jar. Applied over caterpillar yellow it gives a new rust look. See photo for over yellow approach on the tank:
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
dknelson wrote: Getting various reds and browns color panels from the paint part of the hardware store and holding them against actual examples of rust should help.
Getting various reds and browns color panels from the paint part of the hardware store and holding them against actual examples of rust should help.
Weeeelll, ok. But I too am painting rails. And when I lie down alongside the line with my colour chips, the CNR rail security come over and tell me to get a move on before they call the cops to run me in for vagrancy.
selector wrote: I can't visualize that combination, but if it convinces you it should be close enough to enjoy. Try a section and then a photo or two to get a better feel for it.I use Floquil's Rust, but it really needs a base layer of something to take the sheen from the metal rails first. Maybe umber would be great. I do my styrene bridges with burnt acrylic umber and a half drop of yellow, maybe a half-drop of red.
I can't visualize that combination, but if it convinces you it should be close enough to enjoy. Try a section and then a photo or two to get a better feel for it.
I use Floquil's Rust, but it really needs a base layer of something to take the sheen from the metal rails first. Maybe umber would be great. I do my styrene bridges with burnt acrylic umber and a half drop of yellow, maybe a half-drop of red.
I too will use Floequil rust for newly rusted metal, used in combination w/ roof brown I find that I can simulate rust of any age. The rail brown never has seemed to be anything close. An initial coat of roof brown on rail web or any other paint or mix is a good starting place. Dry brushing lighter colors and rust after ballasting can give a more realistic and varied look. If some of the drybrushed paint gets on ties and tie plates this also helps as the rust will stain the ties as well. Starting w/ weathered track is a plus. Just don't get go overboard w/ bright rust unless you intend on showing new repairs or brand new just laid rail.
2 Mainline to left are less weathered, heavier in the yard tracks to the right. Main haven't been final weathered yet
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Getting various reds and browns color panels from the paint part of the hardware store and holding them against actual examples of rust should help. But the point about rust not being a single color is a good one. I do not mean to rip off a guy's work but check out this website
http://inphotos.org/rusted-and-abandoned/
for this great photograph
Sounds like you're in the right ballpark, but there's one thing that usually escapes notice:
Rust color is seldom uniform!
Try being a little less rigorous about mixing pigments, so you get a little variation as you apply them. Add a little white, or a tiny touch of black, as spot-mixes, not blended in. Looking at things which have rusted, you will notice that the color varies from one square inch to the next. About the only thing that rusts almost uniformly is unpainted, uncoated structural steel stored under cover in a humid environment.
I have seen little dots of rust on the polished surface of frequently-used rail, evidence that somebody either was sweating heavily or shook the condensation off a beverage can at that spot.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Despite my moniker I am having a hard time determining the correct color for rust - as in rails.
I realize that color is somewhat a personal preference and can vary depening upon room lighting but I am looking for input as to the color for rust using standard artist color names (not railroad color names).
So far the closest I have come (in my opinion) is 5 parts Raw Sienna to 1 part Raw Umber but I am looking for other input since I am not 100 happy with that color. Maybe I need to increase the Raw Umber a little bit.
Thanks,-John