The other day I was in my favorite train store where I showed my track plan to the guy at the counter. He responded with the idea to do the entire layout in flextrack. His resoning was less joints would cut down on derailment chances and loss of power.
Any comments on this idea?
Are there modeling tips for making the curves so they are consistant and don't become a problem?
Is flextrack a really harder way to do a layout?
It's a bit more involved than using sectional track, but it's not really that difficult. Just make sure you draw out on your layout on your table where you want the track to go and then you can use track spikes to make sure the track holds the shape you want. I've done my first layout with flex track and haven't had to many problems. It also gives you more freedom. I think it would be a good idea to look into soldering. Just my thoughts on the topic.
Brad
My process is to draw the center line of the track, lay the split roadbed to this center line, center the track on the roadbed and sight along the track to make sure it has a smooth curve and no kinks. For curves, I solder the sections together before curving into final position - this gives me a smooth curve. For electric connectivity I solder (resin core) most other sections together, but leave some for expansion. One advantage of flex track is that I can use easements, I made a template for them.
With curves the rails become uneven, I trim them with a cut off disk in a dremel motor tool - other use rail nippers. I use a small file after the cut to clean up any burrs and square the end. I also use a wirebrush in the dremel on the rail before soldering it.
There are other ways/variations of doing it, but this works for me. Don't be afraid to to rip up a section and redo it. I don't do this often, but when the results aren't right I redo it.
So there is more process in flex track vs sectional, but I think the ability to lay any curve radius and easements is worth it.
Enjoy
Paul
I've always used only flex track to build my layouts for the simple reason that I can make the curves any radius I want and the fact that there is less joints is a big plus for keeping good electrical circuit and not having to contend with loose rail joiners.
It's like welded rail on the prototype. And I usually solder all of my rail joints, especially on curves.
The only exception to this is when I built a layout using Kato Unitrack. This stuff is great but you don't have the options to use whatever radius curve you need.
pc
I use flex track because Atlas doesn't make curved sectional track in the radii that I need.
With sectional, if you solder the joints then they will not fail, so fewer joints is a red herring.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Soldering of joints on flextrack with feeders pretty much makes a solid track.
Get a yard stick. Drill a hole large enough for a pencil at a mark.. 22" for example. Pin down one end of the yard stick and stick a pencil in the 22" mark. Swing that pencil around your plywood in a curved line. (You might also use a camera tripod for center marks "Off benchwork")
Your cork roadbed will be in half. One half this side of your pencil mark and the other half to finish the curve subroadbed. Flext track goes onto top of that with spikes. Actually very small nails, but I call them spikes. Most people glue them today.
Careful steady progress checking as you go for quality is the best path to track work.
Me? Im lazy and tired, I just flop down Kato Unitrack and go.
Anytime you can use flextrak instead of sectional track, do it. Sectional track is electrical and operating problems waiting to happen. Every joint is an electrical and mechincal weak spot. Flex track minimizes the risk by eliminating joints.
Flex track also gives you 100 times more flexibility in track design. You are no longer limited to fixed radii and fixed curve lengths.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
A couple of helpful hints, and some tools you'll need:
Tools:
Hints:
I have been using flex track ever since it was made with fiber tie strip, and I have also hand-laid track. My present layout (currently under construction) is all flex track - infinitely easier than hand-laid, and better looking than sectional.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on flex track with hand-laid specialwork)
I bought a complete layout from Atlas using sectional track and decided to make a few changes where I had to use flextrak. After I learned how to use flex track I decided that flextrak was the only way to go. Not only does it give you a little more freedom but it looks better with out all the joints. The only think I will do differently on my next layout besides using flex track, is that I would buy a track cutting tool to keep the rails from twisting and spaced.
One advantage to the sectional track is that I wanted to add a turnout for a lumber mill after I had the all the track laid and it made it real easy to cut out a section piece.
One other thing I forgot.
Your Mark One Eyeball and Mark Two fingernail is the BEST bad track detectors there are. If you dont detect a flaw, one of your engines will.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
IRONROOSTER wrote: ... There are other ways/variations of doing it, but this works for me. Don't be afraid to to rip up a section and redo it. I don't do this often, but when the results aren't right I redo it. So there is more process in flex track vs sectional, but I think the ability to lay any curve radius and easements is worth it. EnjoyPaul
...
I agree with Paul here. I finally ripped out a couple of small sections that either didn't look right (not smooth curves) or didn't work well (poor prep of the roadbed on which the track must rest to be stable). I did so out of desperation the first time, and thought I had gone backwards. Turns out it was entirely the thing to do because I got it right the second time with the expected results. For the second section, I just ripped it up and had new track ballasted in a couple of hours.
So, yes, flextrack takes lots more care, but that is part of the whole model train experience and learning. It comes quickly, you smile more, and when you are finally running trains, you will never look back.
Do pay attention to your rail ends. Wherever there are two rails that meet, use a metal file to bevel the tire surface on the rail head, as well as bevel the flange faces. This is important for smooth running, particularly on tighter curves where flanges tend to get pressed toward the outer rail on a curve. As they encounter joins, they will glide over what amount to tiny cam surfaces if you remember to take the time to construct your joins well. [I learned this from Chuck, above, and endorse his tip whole-heartedly. ]
Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.
Daniel G.
Flex lets you do easements which makes it worth it all by itself. I get nice smooth curves and am free to design my track plans anyway I please. Its a little more challenging to work with but, for me, the results are worth the effort. You will want rail nippers, a soldering iron, and a little more planning to do it right. The down side is you can't test fit your track plan.
I would suggest trying to find a tutorial online or in print and then decide if it looks like something you would like to do. There is a youtube video out there, search for "Weathering and Installing Code 55 Flex Track: Part 1". I haven't watched it but the guy did a great job with his scenery videos so perhaps it will help.
Chris