Sorry to be entering this discussion so late! I can't address any of the issues you are currently experiencing; however, for future reference -- suggesting you go to the Woodland Scenics/DPM website and purchase the DVD "Constructing DPM Kits with Miles Hale". It's $15 + S&H.
Miles Hale (MMR) used to work for Woodland Scenics/DPM and is owner of Model Railroad University.
The bottom line -- he paints the base coat on DPM structures with Floquil, solvent-based paints (with an airbrush on the DVD, but you can get it in an 3oz spray can) and follows up on the trim with a brush using acrylics.
And, there's lots of additional info here on building DPM kits.
Good luck!
Skin oil from fingerprints, and some injection mold lubricants would be expected to reject water based (acrylic) paint. A good soap and water wash, with a toothbrush to get into deep details, before painting is SOP here.
In my experience, a second brushed on coat can always be expected to disturb the first coat to some degree. The longer period between coats, the lesser the effect. Oil or solvent based paints seem to resist this better than water based paints too. With water based paints, I have the most trouble with first and second coats interacting, when the new coat's solvent is given the most time and incentive to work on the cured first coat.
If I'm trying to stretch a brushfull on the second coat to cover more acreage, or if I have a lot of brush action in one area, I'm more likely to see interaction between the first coat and the second. Sometimes, this is good, especially when layering weathering washes. Sometimes this isn't good, like when I'm just trying to solidify coverage of a particular color. Best advice I have for brushed second coats, where interaction with the first coat is not desired, keep the brush well loaded with paint, and dip again, rather than trying to stretch a brushfull, all without covering up the detail, of course.
Hang in there, it will all buff out in the end.
Sorry, my bad.I meant craft paints .The stuff from wally's in the little bottles. Apple Barrel or whatever it's called.
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
HarryHotspur wrote: saronaterry wrote: Hi, OldMan.Try Polly Scale model Paints. I have had trouble with acrylics, also. Don't know why, just have. The Pics I posted in your earlier thread were all Polly Scale paints. One coat with NO problems and no primer.Floquil-Polly S Color Corp. is the maker.Water clean-up and little if any odor.Good luck,Terry Are you saying that you've had trouble with acrylics OTHER than Polly Scale acrylics?
saronaterry wrote: Hi, OldMan.Try Polly Scale model Paints. I have had trouble with acrylics, also. Don't know why, just have. The Pics I posted in your earlier thread were all Polly Scale paints. One coat with NO problems and no primer.Floquil-Polly S Color Corp. is the maker.Water clean-up and little if any odor.Good luck,Terry
Hi, OldMan.Try Polly Scale model Paints. I have had trouble with acrylics, also. Don't know why, just have. The Pics I posted in your earlier thread were all Polly Scale paints. One coat with NO problems and no primer.Floquil-Polly S Color Corp. is the maker.Water clean-up and little if any odor.
Good luck,
Are you saying that you've had trouble with acrylics OTHER than Polly Scale acrylics?
I caught that too. Or did you mean you were having trouble with craft paints?
saronaterry wrote:Hi, OldMan.Try Polly Scale model Paints. I have had trouble with acrylics, also. Don't know why, just have. The Pics I posted in your earlier thread were all Polly Scale paints. One coat with NO problems and no primer.Floquil-Polly S Color Corp. is the maker.Water clean-up and little if any odor.Good luck,Terry
- Harry
As you may recall I'm working on Skip's Ribs. It is my first model and I'm working with my 9 year old daughter. The gluing went fine. I used NW Shortline's Sander to straighten up those DPM slanted walls. I glued the corners of two walls to make two pairs, leaving the structure open to put in windows, etc. after painting.
So the gluing went pretty well and I began painting. I am painting the wall a light brown and the trim a green pretty much as depicted on the package. I am using Tamiyo (sp) acrylic bottled paint and taklon (sp?) synthetic brushes. I first gave the model a wash with Dawn and water. The base has gone on OK. I expected to take two coats. Unfortunately during the first coat there was some "pilling" of the paint. Kind of like the paint was being applied to a surface that had dirt on it. This really happened a lot on the second coat. Also some bubbling a too thick paint in spots. Also in some spots as I painted the first coat would come up. I would rate this paint job a 6 on a 1 to 10 with 10 being the best.
Now I'm working on the green trim. I have applied the first coat. I was really having trouble getting the paint to stick, especially on flat areas. Remember the walls that were painted brown are all textured to look like wood slats. I wonder if I should have spray painted a light colored primer before painting. Is that usually necessary? And I'm a little confused about sprays. My plan has been to stick to acrylic because I understand them to be a little safer, (especially considering my daughter), but are all sprays enamels?
Anyway I will report back when the trim is done.