Being I elected to scrach a engine repair shop(AH TRY TOO ) I wanted the rails in the floor to not be noticable. However the table saw kerf (width of blade) cut the rail slots rather wide being I use N scale track in this area.
Anyhow it looked sort of goofy with as much wheel flange space on the inside and outside of the track. I was wondering around my garage looking for somthing that would work, spotted my Patch-N-Paint. Used this stuff to fill crown moulding brads and is the best spackling compound that I ever used.
Its extreamly light weight, is like a paste of ground up foam, in a quick setting compound. sets quick, put some on your finger, press in, rub it off with another finger and thats it, no sanding, no shrinkage, anyhow I like using it. Is paintable within minits if using latex or acrylic hobbiy paints.
In the picture below. I applied it to both sides of the LEFT track and trouled it off with a MNRA wheel gauge, then draged the rail flange setting side along the rail, removing a rp 25 contour, as this is a static rail for my wheel shop. I dont want the track to catch ones eye.
The right side I just applied it to the outside of the rail, so the concreate will be against the rail. This method for the locomotive side, where engines will be moving.Also it will work if one miscuts stryene for container yards, leads , ect.
Atsa my 2 cents....John
The picture does say - Patch & Paint. Neat!
Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956
Interesting John! How about a few more pictures now that you have our interest!
Joe
loathar wrote:Just curious. Your talking about setting your rails down into the wood. Isn't that going to give you a big difference in rail height compared to the track leading up to the building? I thought most people just laid track into the building and built the floor up around it with plaster or styrene sheets? Maybe I'm missing something or not looking at this right.
John must be using open grid. This is a great advantage as you can set elevations to almost whatever you need w/ the risers.
So just how are you placing that base John? I don't remember all the specifics from the machine shop, wheel/ tread lathe etc.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Below is the base for the shop. Is removable and its 1/4 pressed wood, cut all rail slots with a table saw. Set the blade so that about .005 of rail is above base base floor.
Then cut the swimming pool looking hole for the elevated track (locomotive service area) and at the lover right side is the lower passage way for employees to cross under locomotives to work the center or other track. Another under track cross walkway at the peeler so machinist can block, set cutting heads and reprofile a wheel set.
Two holes for the drop pit tunnel (dead locomotive area).
The tracks to the grey tread lathe is the wheel shop, where the tracks cross will be in floor wheel turntables so that wheel can be rolled or sorted where needed.
Here is what I love about this patch and paint. I can gouge out the floor and patch with it, then a light wipe of grey will give the appearence of a repaired concreat area. I also compleatly fill the rails with it, then pull a wheel gauge over to get the narrow rail groves that I like.
Tracks leading to the shop will be the cork and stryene as like the article in MR, of which I think is pretty trick.
I not that happy with this shop and may start over, have about $16 in it so far.
jwar wrote: Below is the base for the shop. Is removable and its 1/4 pressed wood, cut all rail slots with a table saw. Set the blade so that about .005 of rail is above base base floor. Then cut the swimming pool looking hole for the elevated track (locomotive service area) and at the lover right side is the lower passage way for employees to cross under locomotives to work the center or other track. Another under track cross walkway at the peeler so machinist can block, set cutting heads and reprofile a wheel set.Two holes for the drop pit tunnel (dead locomotive area). The tracks to the grey tread lathe is the wheel shop, where the tracks cross will be in floor wheel turntables so that wheel can be rolled or sorted where needed.Here is what I love about this patch and paint. I can gouge out the floor and patch with it, then a light wipe of grey will give the appearence of a repaired concreat area. I also compleatly fill the rails with it, then pull a wheel gauge over to get the narrow rail groves that I like.Tracks leading to the shop will be the cork and stryene as like the article in MR, of which I think is pretty trick. I not that happy with this shop and may start over, have about $16 in it so far.
It is coming along great. Love those pits.
Some nice paint for a GP40, always liked the WP even though I don't model it.