You could "pinch" the rail joiners a bit with some needle nose pliers (prior to putting them on the rail) so they grip the rail tighter. Once the track is layed and spiked down it shouldn't move at all. The solder joint is more for improving electrical conductivity.
-G-
snowey wrote:I need a new soldering iron, but I can't afford one right now. Is there a way to connect N scale flex track WITHOUT soldering it?
Around here you can get a soldering iron for perhaps 6-7$, granted that it's hardly the best but it will be enough to solder joiners. I would suggest you get one.
Magnus
Lillen wrote: snowey wrote:I need a new soldering iron, but I can't afford one right now. Is there a way to connect N scale flex track WITHOUT soldering it? Around here you can get a soldering iron for perhaps 6-7$, granted that it's hardly the best but it will be enough to solder joiners. I would suggest you get one. Magnus
30watts for $5.
snowey wrote: Lillen wrote: snowey wrote:I need a new soldering iron, but I can't afford one right now. Is there a way to connect N scale flex track WITHOUT soldering it? Around here you can get a soldering iron for perhaps 6-7$, granted that it's hardly the best but it will be enough to solder joiners. I would suggest you get one. Magnusok; are you gonna give me the money to fly to Sweden?
Sure why not. Go to Washington, go to the embassy and their is the tickets waiting for you!
On a serious note. Any DIY store or even gas stations will have this very basic tool. Check an auto part dealer or just about anywhere but a grocery store and you will find one.
As I said, it will not be a very good one, but soldering track joints are not a very demanding job. It will do it. You got to have 5 dollars right?
snowey wrote:I need a new soldering iron, but I can't afford one right now.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/search.asp?keyword=soldering+iron&btnSubmit.x=0&btnSubmit.y=0&btnSubmit=GO
Also check jameco, mouser, digikey and other electronics suppliers on line.
You can also connect now and solder later but the job will be easier before the rail oxidizes.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Lefty
When you pinch the joiner make sure it's top to bottom and not side to side. Squeeze side to side and the joiner gets U-shaped and is almost worthless to slip on. Squeezing top to bottom closes the gap to slide the joiner on the rail which translates into a tighter grip. You will need to push each one on with needle nose pliers and the adjoing rail will need to be up close and personal with the joiner so you can slide the joiner onto it with a small screwdriver or a rivet punch or anything that will not distort the joiner as you push. This will give you a tight fit and good electrical contact for sometime. Soldering is the way to go for years of dependable electrical contact as soon as possible or whenever you buy that soldering iron. Use good solder and an electric fan to blow the smoke away from you. Don't be inhaling that smoke for anything. Lead free or not, don't take the chance.
Archie
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