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Daunting task begins

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  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Jacksonville, FL
  • 913 posts
Posted by gatrhumpy on Sunday, March 9, 2008 5:46 PM
I'm about to ballast my track too. I finally got the track pack Saturday, and spent all day putting up the roadbed and the track. Cleaned off the track after weathering it this morning, and now the trains are running! PIctures to come!
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Ulster Co. NY
  • 1,464 posts
Posted by larak on Sunday, March 9, 2008 2:39 PM
 selector wrote:

It is usually 70% isopropyl.  I filled a clean Elmer's Carpenter Glue bottle with the twisting nib-type cap that you can squeeze the glue with. You can control both the watered glue application that comes right afterward and the initial alcohol application to the ballast quite well with these bottles.

I do something similar with preshave (or aftershave) bottles with the tiny hole in the spout. Lots of control over where and how much alcohol and matte medium you apply. 

 

The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open.  www.stremy.net

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Sunday, March 9, 2008 11:47 AM

For my first layout, I simply sprayed....everything....everywhere....and then wiped up what I had to.  Not terribly smart or efficient, except when gluing an expanse of ground foam to a field or whatever.  Near the tracks, you need control if for no other reason than to spare you having to buy yet another role of the 1.5" masking tape to cover the right of way.

For my second layout, I elected to try the technique I had been reading about by using the alcohol water mix available at drug stores.  It is usually 70% isopropyl.  I filled a clean Elmer's Carpenter Glue bottle with the twisting nib-type cap that you can squeeze the glue with. You can control both the watered glue application that comes right afterward and the initial alcohol application to the ballast quite well with these bottles.  But, I do agree that using the alcohol solution was the way to go.  You can wet (not soak or wash out) 2' of carefully groomed ballast and then dribble the glue into it.  Pick up the alcohol and do another two feet....and so on. 

For me, pouring and grooming the ballast is just a means to an end.  I can't really say I dislike doing it more than any other aspect about a layout...it all has to be done.  Soldering above my shoulders under a layout is probably one of the least liked chores in my task list.  But I can assure you that ballast once carefully spread out and groomed is not something I like to have undone by carelessness or haste.  So, the technique I describe above has been my salvation.  It goes surprisingly quickly, too.  Then, of course, the 12-24 hour wait until it all thunks when you rap it with a knuckle.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,621 posts
Posted by dehusman on Sunday, March 9, 2008 10:44 AM

I don't use alcohol, I use dishwashing detergent in water misted over the ballast with a sprayer.

Cheaper and less smelly.

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Amish country Tenn.
  • 10,027 posts
Posted by loathar on Sunday, March 9, 2008 9:21 AM

Sign - Ditto [#ditto] I do pretty much the same as Mr. B.
I paint the shoulders of the roadbed with straight white glue and sprinkle ballast on that first. Let it dry and do the rest of the ballast.

Either way...you have my symphathise...Tongue [:P]

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,481 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Sunday, March 9, 2008 8:30 AM

1 question, many different answers.

Personally, I use a pipette (hobby-shop eyedropper) and apply straight alcohol to the ballast.  I use a mix of 1 part white glue to 3 parts water for the cement, also applying that with an eyedropper.  I don't spray anything.  That makes a mess.

I suppose I could dilute the alcohol, but the stuff is so cheap that I use it straight from the bottle and save an extra step.  With straight alcohol, the wetting effect is great and the glue goes right into the ballast.

By the way, depending on the humidity, it can take a couple of days for the glue to dry.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    December 2014
  • 49 posts
Daunting task begins
Posted by baron9 on Sunday, March 9, 2008 8:21 AM
 Well fellow modelers its that time in model railroading to to begin the ballesting of the track.  Its all been painted and weathered but can someone tell me the ratio of isoprophel alcohol to water is? Then its on to the glue. Thanks

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