bench cuts for a water feature

[Anonymous]

thanks karl for the nice photo explanation. great layout and nicely documented through your website! Thanks to everyone else as well.

[larak]

I look forward to seeing some more pix from you guys. I learn better visually so I really appreciate all of the responses.

Here's one. It's 1" deep +-

More photos including construction ones on my web site. Click on the "black creek" and "Atkarton CLove" links under photo galleries.

http://www.stremy.net/SRA/Saint_Remy_and_Atkarton_Railroad_Co_.html 

Karl 

[wjstix]

If it turns out to not be enough, you could always raise the track with WS risers. But 1/2" should be OK, on my last layout I painted the bare plywood with acrylic paint in various shades of blue and then covered it with a couple coats of acrylic gloss medium. I thought it came out good and had virtually no actual depth.

[Anonymous]

 

no plans for bridges/track over this body of water. looking to keep it basic with a boat/bait house, some fishermen, etc. I look forward to seeing some more pix from you guys. I learn better visually so I really appreciate all of the responses.

 thanks

[bogp40]

 

Just wondering if I need to cut deeper than my 1/2 inch homasote to prep for the pond feature I am planning. Is that deep enough to allow for proper visual effect or do I need to include my 1/2 inch plywood for a total depth of 1 inch?

 Thanks for your suggestions!

For a pond or other body of water the 1/2" relief can work for the effect with out any trouble. If you are trying to have the track cross a bridge over the water, that may pose a different problem. Those features would usually require a deeper cut to show some "air" between the bridge girders and the water. Many visual effects can be created by raised scenery with the track running through cuts. This gives the appearance of greater elevation change.

Ravines, gorges between hillsides and low valleys would also require altering the benchwork for any flat decked layout. My club models New England w/ all it's hills, granite cuts and adverse terrain. The use of "L" girder and risers allows use to accomplish this much easier.

This construction is not very easy compared to other methods, but it does have the major advantage of some fantastic elevation changes for scenery.

 

[larak]

I prefer mine a bit deeper, but with proper painting (color gradation) you can simulate pretty deep "water" in half an inch. Hopefully some of the guys here will post their photos.

Karl 

[Anonymous]

 

Just wondering if I need to cut deeper than my 1/2 inch homasote to prep for the pond feature I am planning. Is that deep enough to allow for proper visual effect or do I need to include my 1/2 inch plywood for a total depth of 1 inch?

 Thanks for your suggestions!