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Dullcote and chalk?

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  • Member since
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  • From: Wilmington, NC
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Posted by john2wilm on Thursday, March 6, 2008 10:11 PM
Try using a dilluted wash of acrylic paint, use a wedge sponge to take off most of the liquid, then apply the chaulk power before the wash dries. Put the chaulk on heavy, then use a light coat of dullcoat. I use this method on my rolling stock, and buildings. The dullcoat does dilute some of the chaulk, by using a wash before hand the chaulk has a base to stick to, instead of getting blowen off while appling the dullcoat by an air brush or spray can.  I hope this helps.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 6, 2008 10:00 PM

The first time I did that with Bradgon Powder, it scared me to death.

I slathered more while writing in a budget increase for the stuff.

I didnt spray too heavy on the stuff. I usually stopped when about half the stuff vanishes. Then add on a dallop more.

I fear the famous white spray of death more than the vanishing powder.

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Posted by Grubby on Thursday, March 6, 2008 9:40 PM
Use AIM powder, it doesn't seem to disappear under a normal coat of dullcoat.
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Posted by rsovitzky on Thursday, March 6, 2008 2:10 PM

Thanks, guys. 

The consensus seems to be skip the dullcote.  They sure looked surprisingly good (for me) beforehand.

 

Rick at CPR Watertown sub mp 97 And the sons of pullman porters And the sons of engineers Ride their fathers' magic carpets made of steel.
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Posted by wjstix on Thursday, March 6, 2008 1:48 PM
One reason I like using powdered charcoal is it doesn't disolve like the chalk does. Even on a dark building or car it works well to gray or dull any white lettering. Then I usually go back after sealing the charcoal in with dullcote and add chalk weathering but don't seal it in. Unless it's something you're going to handle a lot, the chalk will stay on pretty much forever.
Stix
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Posted by pcarrell on Thursday, March 6, 2008 1:43 PM
Like Jeff said, and I do several mist coats with the dullcoat.  Hold the can or airbrush back a bit so the paint is almost dry as it hits the surface.
Philip
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Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Thursday, March 6, 2008 1:32 PM
Go heavy on the chalk followed by a light coating with the Dul-Cote. The trick is to fix the weathering in but not drown it.

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Posted by barrok on Thursday, March 6, 2008 12:53 PM
One method I have used is to apply a wash down the model after chalking it to simulate the effects of rain -- it blends the chalk/weathering nicely and  I have found the chalk tends to stick fairly well after the wash dries.  I have used straight isopropyl alcohol before and water with a drop of soap (to break the surface tension).  Either way, if you don't handle the model very much, you shouldn't need to dullcote it.

Modeling the Motor City

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Posted by NeO6874 on Thursday, March 6, 2008 12:45 PM
yeah, that happens.. you have to "overweather" with the chalks to make up for the bit that is washed off by the dulcote OR don't seal with dulcote and handle as little as possible (preferably not at all Wink [;)])

-Dan

Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site

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  • From: Elm Grove WI
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Dullcote and chalk?
Posted by rsovitzky on Thursday, March 6, 2008 12:40 PM

I am probably doing something wrong.  I am trying to weather some black plastic bridges.  I had a pretty nice looking result by 'brushing' on colored chalf powder.  Then, I sprayed a bit of Testor's Dullcote from about 7-8 inches.  After drying, it seems like the chalk is gone!

This IS supposed to be a good method, right?

 

Rick at CPR Watertown sub mp 97 And the sons of pullman porters And the sons of engineers Ride their fathers' magic carpets made of steel.

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