Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Shimming a little of the N-scale Woodland Scenics foam roadbed under either the Atlas HO cork or WS HO foam roadbed will bring your Atlas flex-track up to the height of the EZ-track. I know this from experience. Most of my fixed radius curves are laid with EZ 34-36" track, however I also use Atlas for the non-rigid curveature on my MR.
Another hint: Replace the EZ-track connectors with Atlas connectors, they're a lot more sturdy and give better electrical contact over time. Either that, or make sure you solder your EZ track connectors from section to section. I like EZ track, though I'll probably get a lot of arguments from other members, but the connectors are very lightweight and do tend to work a little loose after a while. But for fault-free curveature, the EZ track wide radius is really hard to beat, IMO.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
snowey wrote:hey; I hear ya! I remember once, years ago, when I first got a pair of "rail nippers" to cut a piece of flex-track. I did and they worked great; and I wondered how I ever got along without them. Then, I read an article saying how you could also use them on plastic. But, it didn't mention that you should only use them for one or the other; and NOT both. So, I used them on a plastic kit then I tried cutting a piece of rail again. I only succeded in bending the rail and making a big dent in it!!!
That must've been some awfully hard plastic! The only things you really have to stay away from are hard metals like steel or iron, they should be fine. I've been using Xurons since they were introduced on rail, soft wire like brass and copper and as plastic sprue cutters. They will dull with use even if you only cut rail, but a few swipes with a small sharpening/honing stone will breath new life into your tool.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
dehusman wrote: The easiest way to trim flex track is with a pair of rail nippers. Xuron sells some or buy "flush cutting pliers" at Radio Shack. Put the flat side of the cutters against the piece that is the "keeper" and dress the cut with a file.
The easiest way to trim flex track is with a pair of rail nippers. Xuron sells some or buy "flush cutting pliers" at Radio Shack. Put the flat side of the cutters against the piece that is the "keeper" and dress the cut with a file.
dh:
Hearty "second" on the Xuron nippers. After cutting one track, I wondered how I ever did without them. I love my Xuron nippers.
Usually, I don't even file the cut. I cut off slightly long (about 1/32, usually) and then cut again to trim to length. This confines most mashing to the small shaved-off piece. Try not to let it stick in a flangeway.
Don't use your nippers for anything but rail. I'm not even sure they should be used for steel rail...I have done it, but I try to avoid it. I'm afraid of nicking them, even though the soft rail is not nearly as hard as the tool.
What dehusman said is the way to go. Also, I'm pretty sure Bachmann has an adapter piece to convert from "EZtrack" to conventional code 100 sectional or flex track. The flex or sectional has to be on roadbed, or shimmed, to match the "eztrack".
Rotor
Jake: How often does the train go by? Elwood: So often you won't even notice ...
Try using cork roadbed under the flex and then shimming one or the other to fine tune the joint.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
I am trying to combine Bachman E-Z Track and Atlas Flex track to give me more flexibility on my HO model. Is this possible and can someone give me ideas in how to connect them. Also - can flextrack be cut to size?
thanks
Nemo343