Bear "It's all about having fun."
The thickness depended directly on it's use and design. For HO 3/32" thickness (.0938") is more than enough.
Binding track to styrene is "tricky" Even with CA (super-glue) the tracks will pop up. For some reason glue does not like to bind to the metal to well. (Maybe because the surface is too smooth?) I occasionally augment the glue and put in small holes and hold down the rail with rail spikes that go through the holes in the styrene. I then superglue the rail spike from underneath and trim them.
Often straight concrete is "slick smooth" So they add sand or motar. This roughens up the concrete and gives some traction. You can simulate this effect by lightly sanding the surface you want to look like concrete. (Just to roughen the surface a little) This may take some practice to make it look good. So try it on a few pieces of scrap first.
Don
[edit] I misunderstood the original post. When I heard "inset", I though he meant rail on top of concrete, not street level concrete. Duh! I corrected my recommend styrene height info for code 100 rail head. Sorry about the confusion.
As to glue, you could use double sided tape, rubber cement, or even lightly applied caulk. All three will allow you to pull it up and reuse it.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
bearman wrote:I'm planning on using styrene to simulate concrete for a portion of my layout which will have the tracks set in the concrete. Two questions: what thickness are those bases that are used in building models. Second, any recommendations on adhesive for the insets between the rails. that is, adhesive which holds the insets in place on the ties and betweeen the rails but is "weak" enough to allow for the insets to be removed if necessary, without screwing up the track section completely.
Here's an intermodal terminal I built with all styrene to simulate concrete.
For the insets between the rails I use .060" x .5" styrene (if the track is straight). If it is curved then use .060" styrene and cut as needed. I'd suggest plain old Elmers white glue for the insets. It will allow you to pry them up without major damage to the ties.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
bearman wrote: Second, any recommendations on adhesive for the insets between the rails. that is, adhesive which holds the insets in place on the ties and betweeen the rails but is "weak" enough to allow for the insets to be removed if necessary, without screwing up the track section completely.
Clear silicone caulk. Avoid the white/yellow glue recommendation. Those glues are not meant for styrene. The silicone will bond them together yet allow to pry it off with a small screwdriver. You can then rub off the old silicone and reapply.
I used 15"by19" "For sale " signs from wally's mart.They are styrene, the thickness is right for between the tracks and they cost $1.97 each.Also used them for grade crossings.Cut to fit.I knew mine would be permanent so I used PL300.The caulk is a very good suggestion if you'll want to remove it. This is not the best pic but it's all I have:
Good luck!
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel