I am new to this forum and have been reading many of the helpful hints over the last few months. After a 30 year absence from HO, I finally started this small layout and I would like to share my experiences so far. My overall concept is to cram as much action and layout variation into a small space as possible. I am not trying to make a scale prototypical layout, but just a small fun layout.
Here is the idea for the plan that I came up with. There is an 8' pool table in my basement with a wood top that was added so that it could be used as a table. I settled on 2, 3' x 4' modules that could be easily bolted together to form a 7' x 4' L shaped layout. In the event the pool table was needed, the 3' x 4' sections could be unbolted and stacked underneath. The base was made from 3/4" pine boards with 1/8" hardboard paneling glued and nailed to the top. Layers of 1" styrofoam were white glued to the top for contouring the landscape. After a week to let them dry, I have begun to cut, carve and sand the foam.
The track plan consists of an outside loop that elevates toward the back of the layout and an inside figure 8 that goes up and under. Before starting the layout I experimented with the engines and cars that I hope to run to make sure they can handle the very steep inclines and declines that I hope to use. Both loops are intended to operate only in one direction, so inclines are about 4 degrees and declines are about 5 degrees. I am going to use separate blocks to add power to the inclines and decrease power to the declines so that I won't have to constantly adjust the transformers. Track diameters are 25" and 30" which is also very tight, but the tests with my short trains have shown that they can handle the tight turns and 5 degree inclines. Also, because this is a layout intended to come apart for storage, I am going to use multipin connectors to electrically connect the 2 modules together and to connect to the transformers/control panel.
Since I am trying to get all I can in a small layout, I devised a way to have a trolley that will travel back and forth using a timing circuit to reverse the polarity, but when I need to use the siding, the trolley can be stopped at "trolley stop B", "stop A" disabled and the siding can be used for the railroad, either as a siding or to switch from one loop to the other.
I do have one question. When connecting the two modules together, there are 5 tracks that need to be connected. What is the best way to do this? I am using code 100 flex track. Can I just cut the track between the modules and add track connectors? It seems that it would be difficult to line up all 5 tracks when mating the modules, especially the one that crosses the 2 modules at about a 45 degree angle.
Here are a few photos...
To be continued...............................
dsmith wrote: I do have one question. When connecting the two modules together, there are 5 tracks that need to be connected. What is the best way to do this? I am using code 100 flex track. Can I just cut the track between the modules and add track connectors? It seems that it would be difficult to line up all 5 tracks when mating the modules, especially the one that crosses the 2 modules at about a 45 degree angle.
Cut your flex-track back on each side so one of the standard straight track sizes can be used to bridge the gap....use what ever size you want.
9" Straight Track
6" Straight Track
3" Straight Track
1-1/2" Straight Track
dsmith wrote: Track diameters are 25" and 30"
Track diameters are 25" and 30"
if you use 30" r curves a 180 degree "U" turn will be 5' wide it will not fit
He said 25 and 30 in DIAMETER. So he is using 12.5" and 15" radius. As long as he is doing trolley or 0-4-0's (maybe an 0-6-0) and 30 ft cars it will work if the track is good and the speeds are very, very low. Anything larger than that will not work or will not work reliably.
That size benchwork is more suited towards N scale.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
dehusman wrote: He said 25 and 30 in DIAMETER. So he is using 12.5" and 15" radius. As long as he is doing trolley or 0-4-0's (maybe an 0-6-0) and 30 ft cars it will work if the track is good and the speeds are very, very low. Anything larger than that will not work or will not work reliably.That size benchwork is more suited towards N scale.Dave H.
my bad
ds:
Nice little layout. I'm glad you did tests. That's the best way to see what works and what won't. If in practice you find it doesn't work as well as you'd hoped, the plan is small enough that you shouldn't be set back too far.
I think this will work fine with very small equipment and trolleys. You might want to go entirely with trolleys if you want lots of action in a small space.
By the way, while we usually deprecate alternate routes, a trolley layout is the one big exception. You often want alternate routes for your city cars. One nice, simple trolley plan is a pair of forked routes, back to back, with a double-tracked or passing area in the middle. It allows cars to run on four distinct routes. This type of plan can also be bent into a loop.
Trolley modeling is very different from mainline modeling. You're not running a relatively simple set of complicated trains; you're running a complicated set of simple trains.
Here is an update on my layout. Everything has been working out very well. Because of the tight track radius (12" and 15") I have modified the front and rear engine trucks to rotate further. This involves filing the truck sides and engine frames. Also, some of the couplers needed there coupler housings filed to allow greater rotation. Once these modifications were made I have had no problem with derailments. I am running shorter diesels, up to 50' boxcars and 60' passenger cars.
Also the steep inclines haven't been a problem either. Both tracks have 3" rise over 60" of curving track. Neither engine has traction tires and I can pull about 8 freight cars and caboose before slipping becomes a problem.
The siding works well both as a train siding-switch track and as a trolley line. There are stop tracks at both ends of the siding to allow the trolleyto stop at each end for a preset time and then reverse direction.
There is still lots more landscaping to be done and I'm having lots of fun constructing and running the layout. I have learned a lot reading this forum, thanks everyone who has posted questions and answers.
Dsmith, your layout looks great but I have one question? Did you use guide pins to help with the re-alignment of the two modules after they are unbolted, stored away and then reassembled later?
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
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I like the retaining wall my self. Just goes to show what you can do with limited spaces.
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Kiva Valley Railway- Freelanced road in central Arizona. Visit the link to see my MR forum thread on The Building of the Whitton Branch on the Kiva Valley Railway
Johnnny_reb wrote: Dsmith, your layout looks great but I have one question? Did you use guide pins to help with the re-alignment of the two modules after they are unbolted, stored away and then reassembled later?
The two modules are held together with 2 bolts and wing nuts. The holes for the bolts are slightly oversized so the modules need to be lined up by eye and then the bolts tightened. There is no mechanical connection between the rails between modules, The tracks were just lined up and glued down well at the intersecting points. I have not had any problems with this technique even with the track that crosses the modules at about a 45 degree angle.
Thanks everyone for all the compliments, it is a fun layout.