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Hidden Staging Yards

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  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Raleigh, NC
  • 254 posts
Posted by jkroft on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 7:24 PM
One thing to add...  make SURE that your yard is accessible!  Due to some poor planning (which I knew going into it) I had to sut out some holes in the bottom of my benchwork to reach hidden staging.  It is functional, yet it can be a pain if I have to reach under to get a fallen intermodal container or something.  Also, if you can't see the tracks, you must install IR detectors or some other device to know where to stop your trains.

"You show me a man with both feet on the ground and I'll show you a man who can't get his pants on." -anonymous

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • 2,314 posts
Posted by don7 on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 12:01 PM
Thanks all for the info, Joe Daddy, you have a great sight. Lots of ideas, thanks
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Colorado
  • 707 posts
Posted by joe-daddy on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 12:19 AM

Don,

Many believe that a multi-level layout is an absolute. My second layout was a two level with lower level staging.

I wrote about my experiences on my blog which can be found at this link:

http://wwwjoe-daddy.blogspot.com/2007/08/ll-pox-on-hidden-staging.html 

My website and blog are now at http://www.joe-daddy.com
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • 1,519 posts
Posted by trainnut1250 on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 11:35 PM

Don,

The current issue of Model Railroad Planning  (2008) has an article on building and designing helixes.

 

Guy

see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Gahanna, Ohio
  • 1,987 posts
Posted by jbinkley60 on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 6:26 PM

 

Others have some pretty good plans and can post.  I just created a basic curvature form that was 1/3rd of a circle (120 degrees) with a 26" center.  I then kept cutting them out of 1/2" plywood.  Mine was single track so I used a width of 2.5" .  If I had to do again I would go 3 or 4".  Since I was dropping  12" to the staging/storage area, I wanted 3.75" clearance and exited out the opposite side I entered it took 3 1/2 turns .  The grade is around 2.1 degrees.  For supporting the helix some folks use threaded rod.  I used L brackets screwed to 4 vertical 2"x2" pieces of wood in the center of the helix.  The brackets then go under the 1/2" roadbed.  The threaded rod is easier to adjust but with being only 2.5" wide, there was no real easy way to attach  threaded rod too the roadbed.   Thus I went the L bracket approach.  I used 3" L brackets and added them as I added each layer.  I started at the top and worked towards the bottom (since I finished the top first.

I hope this helps a little.

Edited 2/27/2008 -

I thought a picture might be helpful.  Here's an early construction picture of the helix showing the bottom portion of it.

 

 

Engineer Jeff NS Nut
Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • 2,314 posts
Posted by don7 on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 4:54 PM

How did you plan and built the helix?

The concept is straight forward, a series of circles.  Are there plans for these available or do you simply build by trial and error?

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Gahanna, Ohio
  • 1,987 posts
Posted by jbinkley60 on Monday, February 25, 2008 7:49 PM

 

I went the helix route down to my lower level which is a staging/storage area.  I put the helix in when I built the upper layout level and then added the lower level track after I had all of the main work done under the first level (i.e. turnout controls, wiring etc...) .  It was designed this way from the beginning, even though the construction was in phases.

 

Engineer Jeff NS Nut
Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • 2,314 posts
Posted by don7 on Monday, February 25, 2008 2:36 PM

I am so impressed and also envious of the area of your layout.  Looks like you will have no problem with adding the storage/staging yards.

I have an idea for how to tie in my mainline to a lower deck, my problem is that I also need to tie in my inner line as well and that is where my problem lies at the moment.

As a last resort I can add to the inner line by punching through a wall into my garage, which unfortunately at this moment in time seems to be my only option.

However, I will keep looking for ideas until then, as I said progress will be slow.

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 1,132 posts
Posted by saronaterry on Monday, February 25, 2008 2:06 PM

I don't know if this'll help, Don, But I am adding my staging after the fact. My layout is around the walls with 3 pennisulas. The staging will be under the back 30' wall. It starts here:

There will be a 2 track main where you see the foam below the main level. The staging tracks them selves will be here:

And will run arond the exterior 42' wall and hook into the layout here:

Basically one big circle.

So yeah, I'm adding staging after the fact. Hope it helps!

Terry

 

Terry in NW Wisconsin

Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • 2,314 posts
Hidden Staging Yards
Posted by don7 on Monday, February 25, 2008 1:43 PM

Hi, I am currently in the process of slowly completing my first permanent layout in over 25 years.

The layout is basically a U-shaped 8' x 12 x 8' layout. It has two independent lines, the outer line with 22" curves is my mainline, this is essentially a dog-bone with town/engine facilities at one end and the other end of the dog-bone is another town with a few industries.

The inner line is a mining/logging line which services a mine and a logging camp and brings the products to the town with the industries.

I am satisfied with the overall plan, however I am at this point trying to determine how best to add a large hidden staging yard to the layout. I assume the easiest method would be to add a lower deck.

My question is how many of the readers of this forum have ever added a staging yard after the fact? 

 

 

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