I snapped a piece of my masonite trying to get it around a 90 deg corner for the outer curve. I guess the water didn't help make the wood more pliable. Did the priming prevent the bending or could the masonite not navigate such a tight turn? Someone suggested using styrene for the corners and masonite for the straight areas. Can anyone offer suggestions on how use them in combination? In particular, covering up the seams between the styrene and masonite and how to secure them so one gets the appearance of a continual backdrop.
TIA!
Lee
When I put up my backdrop, I found that I could make 1/4" Masonit make an 18" radius curve by first soaking the area to be formed with water and then gently making the bend, using two people. However, it still cracked once it dried. Spackle covered the problem area.
When it came time to form a tighter radius, I bought a sheet of .040" plastic and had it cut 2' x 8', getting two such pieces from a standard 4' x 8' sheet. This time, I measured and cut the Masonite just for the straight sections. I screwed these to the layout and then used double sided carpet tape to stick the plastic to the surface. The plastic will turn almost any radius you can come up with. The tape holds OK for a while but I have had some come loose. Acrylic caulk solved that problem.
There was a section of the backdrop that I wanted all in one continuous section with a radiused corner. Again I measured and cut the straight section of Masonite and laid them out on the floor. I made a cardboard spacer to be put between the two pieces of Masonite while I taped the plastic to the surface. Then with the help of a friend and my wife, we picked the whole assembly up and they held it in position while I affixed the assembly to the layout.