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Track on styrofoam

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  • Member since
    February 2008
  • From: Southeastern Connecticut
  • 59 posts
Track on styrofoam
Posted by Rdrr on Sunday, February 24, 2008 9:39 PM
I getting ready to lay track on rigid styrofoam, first gluing (Liquid Nails) cork roadbed to the foam and then track to cork. Have been reading the many threads on this subject and I'm a little reluctant to take the leap of faith. Past experience with Homasote on plywood, but wanted lightweight module this time. Any good reasons not to procede?
  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: New Brighton, MN
  • 4,393 posts
Posted by ARTHILL on Sunday, February 24, 2008 9:51 PM
I have done it and plan to do more. I will be interested in what the more experienced modelers have to say. It has worked well for me. My main loop is laid on the plywood, but that laid on the foam seems to work fine. In my yard I laid the track direcly on the foam without roadbed. I am interested in seeing what is bad about this approach.
If you think you have it right, your standards are too low. my photos http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/ARTHILL/ Art
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Clinton, MO, US
  • 4,261 posts
Posted by Medina1128 on Monday, February 25, 2008 6:34 AM
I use acrylic caulk to affix my track on the section of the layout that I built using styrofoam. Even after ballasting,  it's not that noisy.
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
  • 1,317 posts
Posted by Seamonster on Thursday, February 28, 2008 10:21 PM

I've got 2" strofoam insulation glued to 3/8" plywood.  The track is glued to cork roadbed which is glued to the styrofoam.  I used cheap latex caulk to glue the track to the cork, the cork to the styrofoam and the styrofoam to the plywood.  No problems.  The only thing I'd change for you is to use latex caulk instead of liquid nails to attach the track to the cork.  Spread it paper thin.  It holds well, but you can still remove and reuse the track by sliding a putty knife under it.  I don't know if you can do that with liquid nails.  Don't glue down your turnouts, though.  Pin them in place.

 

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Phoenix, Arizona
  • 1,989 posts
Posted by canazar on Friday, February 29, 2008 9:32 AM
If you are gun shy about laying and glueing the cork and track down, as innot 100% sure where you want yoru track...  I would suggest useing pins to push through and hold it.  I found Atlas nails worked out on the straights but the pins worked perfect.     You can pin down your entire route and run it to see if you like it, then can come back and glue once your comfotable.

Best Regards, Big John

Kiva Valley Railway- Freelanced road in central Arizona.  Visit the link to see my MR forum thread on The Building of the Whitton Branch on the  Kiva Valley Railway

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: S.E. Adirondacks, NY
  • 3,246 posts
Posted by modelmaker51 on Friday, February 29, 2008 12:27 PM
I did the same, but used longer "T" pins (I think Woodland Scenics sells them). They're really good for holding the track in place while the adhesive is curing. It seems everybody's recommending latex caulk these days, I used 3M Spray77 contact cement which worked very well, even with the cork and foam (only spray a light coat on the foam), but you do only have a few seconds to make any adjustments. It also comes up pretty easy with a putty knife and there's no residue that needs to be scraped off.

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

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