Hello.
I've been doing research on water scenes online and at woodlandscenics.com about water effects and what have you as I am interested in making a small pond on my layout. I've been looking towards the 16 dollar bottle of fake water to construct this pond and I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do.
Wondering if I could get some info on anyone who cares to post on it, tips on what I need to look for, etc from someone who may have done what I am looking to do in the past.
Thanks
Daniel
Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.
Daniel G.
I tried that WS realistic water on a diorama once. Make sure to fill in ALL holes in plaster cloth or foam as it will seep through the holes and go into the benchwork, or worse, into the layout wiring.(don't ask me how I know that). WS talus can fill major holes. Also, try covering the shores with a light coating of green ground foam on top of real sand for algae, etc. Since it dries absolutely clear, some experience is needed with simulating water depths with paint. Old, rotted REAL twigs can be covered with (once again) a light dusting of green ground foam for moss. Since the WS realistic water can be used as an adhesive, just set the driftwood in the water and pour the WS water in. If you are planning on having a murky pond I came up with an UNTRIED idea:
1) Pour the RW into a plastic disposable bowl.
2) Mix in WS "earth undercoat"; less undercoat=less murky
3) pour RW from bowl into pond; repeat as needed
For tall underwater plants in murky water, simply use some green pipe cleaners, usually found at craft stores. If it is in clear water, it will completely ruin the simulated depth effect, of course you can also go with carving out actual depths, but it consumes a lot of the RW. WS field grass with ends dipped in brown paint can be used for reeds and cattails. I hope this helps!
There is always my party balloon technique:
At:
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/scenery/ballon_pond/
Since water at most distances and shallow viewing angles has no depth it works well
Thank you if you visit
Harold
Dan..I was really impressed at first with using WS realistic water (c1211). For larger rocks, I filed down talis rocks flat with a light coat of RW on the bottom, then placed them on the water after it dried. The down side is this product never really sets up hard and I have heard of other's with the same problem. I have a ring from a hair spray can in the middle of my river, I inadvertenly sat it there a year later. I am really thinking of scraping it off and using another product that I know will dry hard, it also hold dust and stray foam bits, and scraches very easy. Just my 2 cents...John
For my money, you can't beat envirotex. If you want ripples, use water effects. For a pond no ripples but, make sure you paint the bottom, both to seal and to simulate depth. Dark in the middle with light tapering to the edges. I use real, fine filtered soil around my ponds and this is very effective. You can't learn everything by reading. The best teacher is experience, so try and see what you think.
Ron K.
Envirotex lite is all I use. It drys hard and I clean it with a Swiffer thingy.I agree with the above post about sealing your benchwork. I form the watercourse,slather on some premixed drywall mud,paint it flat black in the "deep"water and my ground color latex feathered into the black.Add rocks, real twigs etc.Pour the Envirotex and let it dry. Add another layer as needed. If your layout is not flat the stuff WILL find the lowest area, and ANY pinhole leaks.Thinner layers seem to work better than one big pour.Heed the directions. I dam the end with layered masking tape and haven't had a problem with dripping.The down side I've seen is it creeps up the rocks and scenery a bit, making them look damp.Doesn't bother me ,just wanted to let you know.
Set anything that'll be in the water before you pour, like bridge piers and such.
I've poured 6 streams/rivers/ponds with the stuff and love it. Oh yeah, mix it in plastic beer glasses and toss'm when done.The kind you get at kegger parties!
Good luck!
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
http://www.unrealdetails.com/ponds.htm
Here's an idea for the pond base in case you haven't seen these yet.
I wonder if I could get away with using Minwax Polyurethane instead of Envriotex, unless Envirotex is a product that is readily available at hardware stores. I've never looked for it. I'm leary with other posts informing me that WS water does not dry entirely and picks up things that are set on top of them.
I will third or fourth the comments about WS Realistic Water. The one place I used it, never set hard, and now has collected bits of ground foam, dust and a bug. Plus it has a nasty habit of shrinking.
Another option is a painted base, covered with either Enviro-Tex, gloss poly, or acrylic gloss medium.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
Check out Joe Fugate's Scenery Clinic on his forum. Scroll about 3/4 of the way down the page to find the first post on modeling water.
http://siskiyou-railfan.net/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?1270.30
I found Envirotex at menards(about $20,but it was enough to pour everything I've done so far).I can't say for sure, but I would assume the big box and wally's mart would carry it, in the paint dept.
My pond was made with Modge Podge Gloss Lustre (Gloss medium). Easy to use, water based, non-toxic, and no harsh fumes. Dries clear and has held up well for over five years now. You can purchase it from any major retailer (like Michael's):
The key is really how you paint the bottom of the pond. Once you get that down, the layer(s) of gloss medium will be the easy part.
Sweet picture! (wonder what I'm drawn to most, the landscaping or the stunning looks of the J--)
Thanks everyone for the help, I'll keep looking into it and probably go with the envirotex as that seems like a better choice for what I want, keeping it dust free and rock hard.
A pond or river is a great addition to a layout and well worth the effort to create it. I used a two part resin with acrylic green mixed into it before I poured it.
Ken, the Envirotex dries clear, one of the reasons I like it. you can see the details near shore that you so patiently placed! With the flat black paint in the "deeper " areas it really looks good,IMO.It seems that a little goes a long way depending on the pour thickness.
I have used a product called Klock-Kote. It is a two part epoxy that sets up in about 24 hours. I like that you can make changes within the first hour or so without any damage to the project. Here's a couple of pics. Good luck, Dave
Click for a better veiw
It works good for creeks as well...
MAbruce wrote: My pond was made with Modge Podge Gloss Lustre (Gloss medium). Easy to use, water based, non-toxic, and no harsh fumes. Dries clear and has held up well for over five years now. You can purchase it from any major retailer (like Michael's):The key is really how you paint the bottom of the pond. Once you get that down, the layer(s) of gloss medium will be the easy part.
How did you get the waves? I use the same thing for water but mine dries flat.