Thanks for the tips. I will locate some of that goo be gone.
I did use a putty knife on one of the boards and it left a sticky mess. I will use some mineral spirits and see how that works to clean that up.. I just got a can to clean my airbrush.
Chris
To ChrisNH: I've removed those pesky labels by carefully raising the corner of the label with my fingernail and then slowly peeling the label off. Alternatively, you can carefully scrape the label off with a thin-bladed putty knife. Any residual adhesive can be removed with mineral spirits (paint thinner) on a paper towel.
I've never used the "Goo be Gone" product but it sounds like it might be faster than my technique.
I also plan to use the hardboard backdrop method of Wilson that was mentioned. If you built the 1 x 2 framework the way he describes you should be able to use #8 5/8" or 3/4" flat head wood screws to secure the hardboard to the pine frame attached to the wall. You'll need to counter sink the holes so the head of the screw is slightly below the surface of the hardboard. You can then use drywall mud to cover the heads of the screws for a smooth finished surface. Using construction adhesive would definitely make it more difficult to remove the hardboard from the frame if you had to disassemble the backdrop. On the other hand, finding the screw heads after they've been covered with drywall mud won't be easy either.
Bob
ChrisNH wrote: On my current 3x5 layout I used 3/4" #6 countersunk wood screws. However, I the framing such that I am always screwing into either the end of the wood or the side of my 1x2 or 1x3 supports and joists. You might be able to get away with those since the wood itself should be 3/4" + the thickness of the masonite. THe trick will be not to screw in too deeply. You may be able to use 1/2" wood screws, doesnt take much to hold for backdrop. I found the self-tapping dry wall screws did not work well. They won't sink into the masonite like they do with pine. After that didnt work I got some counter-sink drill bits and did it the way I am doing now which will allow me to cover the screws with dry-wall or some such before I paint. I think the idea of using glue is a good one but I would consider if I would ever need to remove the masonite such as with facia in front of some switch machines.What I want to know is how to get those awful stocking labels home depot puts on their 2'x4' masonite pieces without ruining the tempered surface they are stuck on! Chris
On my current 3x5 layout I used 3/4" #6 countersunk wood screws. However, I the framing such that I am always screwing into either the end of the wood or the side of my 1x2 or 1x3 supports and joists. You might be able to get away with those since the wood itself should be 3/4" + the thickness of the masonite. THe trick will be not to screw in too deeply. You may be able to use 1/2" wood screws, doesnt take much to hold for backdrop.
I found the self-tapping dry wall screws did not work well. They won't sink into the masonite like they do with pine. After that didnt work I got some counter-sink drill bits and did it the way I am doing now which will allow me to cover the screws with dry-wall or some such before I paint.
I think the idea of using glue is a good one but I would consider if I would ever need to remove the masonite such as with facia in front of some switch machines.
What I want to know is how to get those awful stocking labels home depot puts on their 2'x4' masonite pieces without ruining the tempered surface they are stuck on!
Hey Chris... try using "Goo Be Gone" Its a citrus based liquid that after applied... you can rub off all the stickyness residue left behind by stickers etc. Rub a little bit on with a paper towel and let sit for a few seconds and rub off. Repeat for excessive "gunk" Works great and smells good too!
Rob
kasskaboose wrote: Per directions in Wilson's book on benchwork, I put 1x2s every two feet along my benchwork to support the 1/8in masonite backdrop. How do I secure the masonite to the 1x2? The total thickness of the masonite and 1x2s is about 3/4 in. According to HD and Lowes' webpages, they only sell drywall screws that are longer than an inch. I don't want to put the screws into the drywall behind the benchwork, just into the supports. Should I use nails? TIA! Lee
Per directions in Wilson's book on benchwork, I put 1x2s every two feet along my benchwork to support the 1/8in masonite backdrop. How do I secure the masonite to the 1x2? The total thickness of the masonite and 1x2s is about 3/4 in. According to HD and Lowes' webpages, they only sell drywall screws that are longer than an inch. I don't want to put the screws into the drywall behind the benchwork, just into the supports. Should I use nails?
TIA!
Lee
I used velcro. Works great, no holes to fill in, and easily disassembled if needed.
I've bent more nails than I care to admit - trying to fasten Masonite to something. I agree with at least two other replies: Use a good strong glue or construction adhesive. Clamp the work while the glue sets....job done.
The Other Chip
I use construction adhesive sold in a caulk-type tube, applied with a caulking gun. I use a few 5/8" pan head screws to hold the Masonite tightly in place while the glue dries, then I remove the screws, fill the holes and paint the backdrop. This makes it appear seamless and no screws show.
Often, I leave the screws in place when they are located at the bottom of the backdrop panel, near the layout surface, because I can easily cover these with scenery, and I like the extra security they provide.
I have bought 3/4' drywall screws or they should sell short pan head screws 1/2-3/4" in the hardware sections.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Or check in the isle with the vinyl siding/rain gutter. They should have bags of 5/8" screws (stove screw type head for a phillips drivers), I think I paid $1.90 or so for 100 when I did my rain gutter.
addendum- NEITHER store has a reliable website/store inventory history. Either call and be sure or just make a visit. DO NOT rely on the web site to guarantee that they have the items.