As far as I know (and I am only 2 years into the hobby), the atlas turnouts are fine with DCC. They have insulated frogs, so you just need to make sure you have feeder wires going to each section of track, to get good DCC signal pickup. I ran my main wire with 14 guage and then used 22 guage wire for the feeders, no less than every 3 feet of track. I went with the Digitrax system, Empire Builder. I am totally happy with it so far and it does more than I'd ever need. You must be willing to read the manual and refer to it often to learn the operation however. If you are a person that hates instructions and owners manuals, you may want another brand, but I'm sure they are all somewhat complicated for newbies like us. Digitrax also has a decent website for help and products. Plus, their decoders are probably the most common and are relatively inexpensive and easy to find.
I have two Athearn MP15-AC's (SP versions, without DCC and sound).. I have yet to run them as I still need to install the decoders for DCC operation, but the detail is awesome and price is right for such a detailed piece.
Anyhow, I think that answers all you questions. Until someone chimes in next with more or better information. Other than the benchwork, which I think you'll get better advice from someone else. I have built mine out of 2" foam, sitting on metal bolt together shelving units from Home Depot. Its strong and so far been fine, I'm sure there are much better designs and advice out there on that subject than me!
Good luck and most of all, have a good time!
nittyp
I'm using Atlas CustomLine code 83 turnouts. They have insulated, but conductive, frogs, so you have the option of powering them if needed for short wheel-base locos. I have not needed to do so. These turnouts work fine with DCC. No special wiring is required. The atlas turnouts are not power-routing, which means all 3 sets of rails exiting the turnout are constantly connected within the turnout. When I installed mine, I did add a small gauge (30 ga, i.e. decoder wire) jumper wires between each point and it's associated stock rail for reliability. Most of my track is not soldered at the rail joiners, so I have a set of 24 gauge feeders to each section of track, connected to a 12 gauge pair of DCC bus wires below the benchwork. 12 gauge is ovekill - 14 is fine, and you could even go smaller depending on the overall size of your layout.
There are many good DCC systems, many threads here on choosing one, and many opinions. Personally, I like my NCE PowerCab. I operate at a large layout where the NCE wireless system has not been very successful - maybe due to limited power or maybe interference.
Jim
I use Kato and they are all live. I do use insulators in certain ways to help keep it all together.
I prefer metal frogs and big enough to handle most anything availible in the hobby.
I once used atlas and I like them, with the expectation that they wear out and have to be replaced.
Welcome to the forum and your return to the hobby.
You seem to have done your homework and are on track.
The only comment I would make is your use of homosote for the subroadbed. Some have used it and allowed the subroadbed to span 16" w/o problems. I would suggest the use of at least 1/2 Ply and use the homosote as the "roadbed". This will allow greater support and there will never be any chance for sagging. Cookie cutter using the ply will actually aid in any of your upeasings and overeasings for the grades. As long as a plywood break is a joist/riser away from the start or end of the grade , the ply will bend to give the easing needed.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Glen,
You will have 'sag' with that Homasote - Trust me. I use 1/2" plywood for my 'sub-roadbed' with is supported every 16" by a 1x2 riser. On top of that I use 'Homabed' roadbed for the mainline and standard cork roadbed for the sidings & spurs.
As others have mentioned, the Atlas Customline turnouts are basically 'DCC Ready' and can be used 'as is'. If you want to power the frog, there are contacts on many of the switch machines that can do that. With most good locomotives, you have 'all wheel' pickup and leaving the frog unpowered is no problem.
Soldering track feeders to the rail joiner really does not resolve the electrical problem. You still have the 'mechanical' connection of the rail joiner to the rail that will fail down the line. Soldering #22 feeders to the side of the rail really is not as hard as it looks. First of all, do not use a large 'solder gun'. Get a small 25-40 watt solder pencil type of soldering iron. Practice on a scrap of flex track until you get the feel. Here is what I do to solder feeders:
You can use water soaked paper towels as 'heat sinks' on either side of the feeder joint to keep the heat from moving down the rail and melting ties. I have soldered hundreds of feeders and have only about 3-4 melted ties(usually from not following the above steps). A good solid solder connection to the rail will insure you have no connectivity problems. Like I mentioned before, never 'trust' a rail joiner for an electrical connection. You can also solder some of the track joints, but limit it to every other one as the trackage needs some 'give' for expansion & contraction.
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I found it easy to solder the feeders to the underside of the rail. I stripped, tinned, and bent a 90 degree angle on the end of the wire. Remove the plastic between a pair of ties under each rail. Clean the spot with a piece of sandpaper and tin that. Then solder the feeder to the rail. After ballasting, you won't see the feeder at all. I had no problems with melting ties. Solder flux for electronics work is also a big help.
Jim,
Thanks for those soldering tips. I'm sure I will be able to do that by following your excellent instructions. I'm sure I can cut and slide a few ties out of the way while I solder the area and then slide them back into place. I am also now going to use plywood as my sub roadbed and bevel the homasote into roadbed under the actual track. I visited a friend of a friend last night who lives in Findlay and has been model railroading for 50 years. He has over 100 steam locomotives, mostly brass. His layout is about 9' x 33' and I was overwhelmed by all that he has. It is all DC only and he wasn't too impressed with DCC as he feels it is not reliable. I guess the old timers like to stick with what they know. I am still undecided, but leaning towards DCC, hoping that over the years it has become reliable and I will be happy with that more expensive route. Thanks again.