I want to add a backdrop to my 2x8 layout. The backdrop would go along the back and both 2' sides with tight coved corners. I have a couple questions though. One is what is a good material, and the other is how high should the backdrop continue above the layout. The layout is already at 5'2" (just slightly below eye level for me). I was going to make it 18" but even that seems high.
Thanks,
Chad
Masonite is a popular material to use, though I don't know how tight you could cove it, even if you wet it a little. You could also use the back side of a strip of vinyl flooring, but that will need a pretty good support framework. I chose vinyl flashing. It bends nicely and requires a minimum of support framework. I got a couple of three rolls for like $25 a roll at the local Home Depot and it's more then enough to my whole double decked N scale 10x15 layout with some left over.
I went with 20" tall (it comes that high, so it was easy!), though being in N scale I could've gone less. The hieght you go will depend somewhat on the scale. 18" for N scale is good and maybe getting down to a minimum for HO, but then thats just me.
Here's my vinyl flashing going up on my layout. It's not painted and still has unsanded putty on the stapes that I used to hang it, so pardon the mess.
Here you can see the front of the backdrop on the lower level and the backside with the 1x2 framework on the upper level.
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/Autumns%20Ridge/7-22-070.jpg
Here you can see how tight of a curve you can do with it.
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/Autumns%20Ridge/7-22-074.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/Autumns%20Ridge/7-22-075.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/Autumns%20Ridge/7-22-076.jpg
Phillip has a good idea about the vinyl. Another product that will work well for the tight curves is styrene or Aluminum coil stock. Whatever product is more readily available to you should be fine.
I would contact cement or Pliobond the material to some sort of substrate, especially the aluminum. Any 1/4" sheet stock, masonite, MDF or my choice Luan should be sufficient.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Chad,
I used 1/8 untempered masonite and curved the corners. As mentioned, you will need a pretty good frame to hold the corner curve made with masonite. I used 1 x 2's and 1 x 3's, and glued and nailed the masonite on with brads. They dissapear with spackle and paint.
You may want to use something a little more flexable in the corners.
I had poor luck attaching preprinted backdrops from Walthers. They were installed using rubber cement, and became a little wrinkled after a few days. I used a steam iron to salvage it to some extent, but now I see it is falling loose at some seams. The sky colors are a very poor match from one scene to the next. If I do it again I will paint my own backdrop.
I used and like the 24 inch height on my HO layout.
Hi,
I used 1/8 inch masonite for the corners of my 11x15 layout that fills a room. The masonite was screwed into wall studs, with a four foot length making a 90 degree bend. I used a 24 inch height, and I think I would go with 30 or 36 inches if I did it over. My reason is that "landscape" pictures are hard to take without showing the walls above the 24inch masonite.
FWIW,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Mine's 24 ins high, and it never seems too high to me. I'd have it higher if I could, but it's free-standing and is wobbly enough already. [4mm scale layout] I'll be going with the same on the HO scale side of the table.
Mike
Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0
reklein wrote:...I'd keep in mind, that if you make your coves too tight you lose the effect of erasing the corner.
How tight is too tight? I was hoping to go down to 4" radius since the layout is so small anyway. There won't be much on the backdrop besides sky so would that make a difference in how tight the coving could go.
For the material I will probably go with masonite and use strips of vinyl flooring so I could get tight corners, hiding the seams with joint compound.
reklein wrote:P Carrell, That vinyl looks nice. But I'd keep in mind, that if you make your coves too tight you lose the effect of erasing the corner.
Thank you reklein,
I should have pointed out that it does kind of erase the effect if you go tighter, but it's still better then a hard lined corner.
On my layout the tight corners will either be hidden mostly by hills and such (I'm modeling Maine) or they are wrapping around the ends of the benchwork to where I'll have decorative woodwork.
The trackplan of the layout purposely places the structures on the layout to hide the backdrop. So the backdrop will just be mottled blue-ish grey with a few photos of buildings glued on to hide small gaps where you can see between structures.
I use light blue craft paper, tacked to the walls:
Eventually, I plan on added some distant hills.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
I used sheet styrene purchased from a plastics store in town. I framed the corners (24" radius) and the styrene is glued to untaped drywall on stud walls. The styrene was perfect for painting a sky back drop.
Hal
I am building a spare bedroom sized N scale layout. I bought several 4 x 8 sheets of .060 white styrene from a plastics dealer and had the dealer cut each sheet into two 2 x 8 strips for a small extra charge. I needed very small radius coves since I could't waste much space so for each corner so I used a tight 5 1/2" radius. I cut three concave plywood templates for each corner and mounted them in the corner (top, middle, bottom) of my desired backdrop. This took a little time but when I put my backdrop sheets in place I had no trouble coming up with smooth uniform tight radius curves. I placed the backdrop so that 18" was above the layout and 6" was below. I had to make a couple of splices in the backdrop but they were not much trouble. I used the same .060 styrene to make splice plates about 8" wide to go on the back of the backdrop glued with Gorilla Glue and left to dry overnight. All splices and nail heads were countersunk slightly and filled with Squadron Plastic filler then sanded flush. This was my first attempt and it came out better than I could have expected.
The styrene is a little more expensive than other materials but I didn't want to worry about expansion cracks or other problems later when I couldn't reach the backdrop to repair it very well. The photo also shows a removable panel across a window. This seam shows slightly since it is not glued and filled but if I ever had to have access to the window I need to be able to easily remove the backdrop panel in front of it.
I will try and post a photo but this is my first attempt at a photo so hope it works.
jambam wrote:I'm curious about that vinyl roll solution. . . . Doesn't it warp/deform/buckle with temperature/humidity changes? Seems masonite would be more stable.
It's like .015mil thickness, but it holds up pretty well. I used a 1x2 framework behind it and ran it pretty high up. I used industrial staples to secure it. My longest straight run is about 13', but the longer you go straight the closer to the top you need the support so it doesn't curl over with age.
I stopped at Home Depot and picked up 3 masonite 2'x4' "handy-panels" for the backdrop. Tommorow I'll start painting them and the backdrop should be done by the weekend. Thanks for the help!
Mike B wrote:
Good looking clouds!
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
I checked out US Plastics web site, very reasonable shipping but the sheet size was 40x72. I felt that 20" would end up being a bit too small. Perhaps I miss read that.
I have been seeking a plastics dealer in my area (seacoast NH) but not much success. For now I am using 1/8" tempered masonite. Not my favorite to work with but acceptable as I can get it at home depot.
Chris