RFinch wrote: If you decide to use 1" or thinner extruded foam for your layout, be aware that at least some of the foam in these thinner sheets has a thin plastic film on its surface to protect it from damage. This plastic film will interfer with adhesive, paint etc. adhering to its surface. The pastic film must be removed if you're to avoid this problem.Bob
If you decide to use 1" or thinner extruded foam for your layout, be aware that at least some of the foam in these thinner sheets has a thin plastic film on its surface to protect it from damage. This plastic film will interfer with adhesive, paint etc. adhering to its surface. The pastic film must be removed if you're to avoid this problem.
Bob
Now I find this. I just went this past weekend and picked up 4 4x8 sheets of this blue board. Did NOT take of the plastic film (I wanted to but said no its there for a reason ) and glued it down. I just went upstairs to see if its still glued down. Its ok for now, I hope that nail in a tube holds it down.
I too am going to use 2" blue foam on top of hollow core doors for my benchwork. I agree that the 2" thickness allows you to go below 'grade'. I'm not sure what type of roadbed i'm going to be using; cork, homabed, ceiling tile ? Any advice from someone with proven results would be appreciated. I do know that the styrofoam is a stable product so it should work in any climate.pete.
David,
I've not seen extruded blue insulation board in my area (Martinsburg, WV) in the 1 1/2" thickness. Our local Lowes carries it in 2" and, I believe, 1" thicknesses. The last time I checked, the thinner board had what appeared to be a very thin plastic film on its surface. The 2" thick board, that I'm using, definitely does not have the protective film on its surface either in the 4' x 8' or 2' x 8' sheets. When I called the manufacturer about this protective film, I was told that they put it on the thinner sheets because they are made from a less dense foam than the thicker sheets, e.g., the 2" thick. Since you're considering 1 1/2" thick sheets, why not just use the 2" thick foam and not have to worry about the plastic surface film. If you can't get the 2" thick foam in your location, you might check the edge of the 1 1/2" foam to see if you can see the edge of the surface film or try to get hold of it with your finger nails or pliers and pull on it to see if it comes loose. If you're still not sure, call the manufacturer with the specific identifying number off the 1 1/2" foam and ask them if it has the protective plastic film on its surface.
Art - Good idea keeping the family happy. Your layout is really incredible to look at. I start carving foam next weekend...wish me luck and take care.
Jbone
Now THAT'S ART!!!!
WoW
Is that the thanksgiving dinner table in picture 15.........right next to the track? Classic
I plan to use the 2" thick blue extruded foam for my bench top. The advantage of the thicker foam is that you can carve out terrain contours below track level to create streams, ponds, etc. If you decide to use 1" or thinner extruded foam for your layout, be aware that at least some of the foam in these thinner sheets has a thin plastic film on its surface to protect it from damage. This plastic film will interfer with adhesive, paint etc. adhering to its surface. The pastic film must be removed if you're to avoid this problem. As far as I know the thicker foam, e.g., 2", does not have this protective plastic film on its surface.