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Scratch Built Signs

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  • Member since
    January 2002
  • From: Australia
  • 96 posts
Scratch Built Signs
Posted by bagman on Friday, February 1, 2008 5:23 PM

Hi there

I'm interested in having a go at making some signs for my buildings.

I have read on various web sites how layout builders have made their own signs using computer software and transferred to decal paper.

Wondering if you guys could point me in the direction of any Model Railroader articles or web sites that might offer tips on how to achieve this.

Did a search using the Model Train Magazine Index site but no luck.

Many thanks in advance for your help

regards

 

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Texas
  • 2,934 posts
Posted by C&O Fan on Saturday, February 2, 2008 8:30 AM

Here's a thread that will get you started

http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1092202/ShowPost.aspx

Do a forum Search for Signs

There are many others

TerryinTexas

See my Web Site Here

http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,481 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Saturday, February 2, 2008 10:56 AM

I've done a number of signs for my layout.  The simplest ones are just printed on cardstock (heavy paper, used for greeting cards) and then cut out and glued on.  For that "painted-on" look, though, I use home-brewed decals.

I like to scour the web for old advertising billboards and posters.  There are a lot of these, mostly at sites that have the originals and are trying to sell them.  You can just look at the thumbnail images, though, and download them.  (Right click on the image, then use Save As to copy the picture to your hard drive.)

Next, I use Microsoft Word to size and print the image.  Insert-Image-From File will allow you to select your picture and bring it on to the page.  Next, size the image by grabbing on the little button at the corner of the picture.  Decal paper is expensive, by the way, so I usually open the margins (top and sides) so that I can get the image as close to the top edge as possible.  Print the image on plain paper first, cut it out and check for fit.  When you're happy, print the image on the decal paper.  I usually try to do a batch of these, so I can at least print a whole row of decals across the top.  Then I use a paper cutter to get a nice clean cut below the row of images, and I can feed the same sheet of decal paper into the printer for another row of images at a later date.

Each brand of decal paper is different, but all require some sort of sealer.  I use Microscale's Liquid Decal Film.  I try to give the decals a day to dry thoroughly before applying the first coat of sealer, and then at least a few hours more before the second coat.  The I wait another day before applying the decals.  I also use Microscale's Micro-Set to settle the decal in.

The surface requires some care before you apply the decal.  If you want a nice new, clean look, then you need a smooth surface.  I get this either with gloss or semi-gloss spray paint, or with a semi-gloss clear over-spray.  The decals on this trolley were printed on my aging HP 721C computer printer, and applied over a smooth surface.  Once the decals were dry, I applied another coat of the semi-gloss spray to protect them:

(For any of these images, click on them for a larger view.)  If you want a weathered look, you can apply the decal over a rough-finished surface.  Here's Ted Williams plugging Moxie.  The surface is a DPM brick building, painted with cheap primer and mortared, using Dul-Cote to seal the mortar:

Now, there's a problem with these ads.  They typically have a mixture of light and dark colors.  When you print them out, the computer assumes you're using white paper.  Typical computer printers don't print white at all, and light colors are pretty washed out, as well, but they look fine on white paper.  So, if you're putting a decal on a dark surface, it's important to first paint the surface white where the decal will go.  Even this is prototypical - old building-painted ads were generally white-washed over before painting on new ones.  These ads (like Ted above) were applied to a wood-plank fence (made of coffee stirrers) over a white frame:

 

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    January 2002
  • From: Australia
  • 96 posts
Posted by bagman on Saturday, February 2, 2008 4:11 PM

 

Thanks so much guys, particularly MisterBeasley.

Greatly appreciated

cheers

 

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: nw Pa.
  • 106 posts
Posted by Doug T on Sunday, February 3, 2008 5:20 AM

You might want to take a look at this site http://www.railroad-line.com/

Go down to Model Railroad Forums, then Craftsman Corner, and finally to Signs for Structures.

They have a lot of signs within this thread and either in this thread or another thread on this forum they discuss using onion skin paper as the backing material for signs.

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 20 posts
Posted by okonite on Thursday, February 7, 2008 6:10 PM

good topic- MANY signs on model railroads are not correct in terms of popular graphic design when they were supposed to have been erected. TIP-just because a certain print styling on signs was considered 'Traditional' during the 70's,80's or 90's HAS NOTHING TO DO with its historical accuracy, and anyone who has spent time at estate sales judging the age of an item in its box by the styling of the lettering on the box can identify discrepancies immediately.One last thing:in the 1890's and later,most graphic design was purposely designed on commercial items and buildings to look old fashioned, because it made the company in question appear more stable and trustworthy in the public's eye. but this is not the case for most of the 20th century.

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