steel benchwork

[MECman]

I am intrigued by the use of steel framing for benchwork featured in the latest Model Railroad planning issue. I like the long spans unsupported by legs that would free up space underneath my layout for a workbench etc. Has anyone tried this? Do you recommend it? What tools are appropriate for cutting steel studs?

 Thanks,

David

[jjackso8]

MEC Man

I have just completed my newest layout using steel studs. the only tools I sued were a good set of metal shears (called aircraft types) and a good screw gun/drill. I would recommend some clamps or vice grips as well. I used plain old self tapping metal screws to fasten it all together. I did not do as the article illustrated with boxing the studs together. My longest span is over 10 feet and I just used the 12' stud. In terms of wooden benchwork, I guess you would consider my construction technique a box frame. My layout is an around the room (12' x 15') on three sides shelf with a 3' x 10' peninsula off the middle wall. The shelf is 24" deep except in the very corners where it is 30" deep.The bottom of the layout is 54" off the ground to allow me to sit in my work chair and roll completely under the layout for very easy access to the underside.

Off the wall studs, I hung joists out and then connected them together with the channels that are used on the floor. Also I ran diagon supports up from belo to the joists for even more support. This gave great rigidity to the whole assembly. On top of the joists, I then installed 1/8" luan strips, approximately 14-18" wide and 8' long to further stiffen the whole thing. On top of the luan is a alyer of 2" pink foam board.

My track, code 83 Atlas Flex track and a mix of Walthers and Atlas custom line turnouts, are laid on WS foam roadbed, except on industrial sidings and yards, where the track is right on the foam board.

Wiring was easy to do as all I did was use an old wire hanger to poke a hole thru the foam and a long drill bit to  go thru the luan if needed and then use a length of 12 gauge wire insulation to feed the track feeders thru the foam and luan.

In total constructin of the benchwork took about a day and a half. i was able to do it all without any real problems. Just be sure to have your drill/screw gun charged up and another battery charging and WEAR GLOVES. Those studs can get pretty sharp after you cut them. I also used a pair of linesman pliers for reshaping the ends as the shears do deflect the metal some as you cut to length. Also get the [plastic inserts for the wiring holes as the edges will eat up the wire insulation as you thread the wiring thru the holes.

Let me know if you have any more questions and good luck. the best of this type of stuff is no power tools (other thatn the drill), not much noise and not much clean up.

[obermeyern]

I don't know if you ran any trains on your layout yet, but is there a noise difference between running on wood compared to steel?  What about a price difference?  Expansion/Contraction?  Portability?

 Thanks,

Nate 

[jjackso8]

Quite honestly I have not run any trains as I have not completed the wiring, however I can tell you that the noise level difference is negligible so far. As for the cost comparison, the steel is a lot less. the studs were about $2.35 for the 2"x4"x10' and about $3.50 for the floor channels. Decent wood was running about double the price at the local BIG BOX. Not to mention the decent plywood was out of sight. My money is for the railroad not the lumber company. My layout is in the basement, which is dry in the summer and winter, I had no expansion/contraction problems on my previous wood benchwork layout and do not expect any here either. As for portability, this was not a concern as I built the layout to be permanent and not portable. I can tell you that the original layout had two liftout sections that wieghed about 25 lbs. each (18"x36") and the new one has two lift outs for continuous operations 12"x30" and weigh about 5lbs. each. Running the bus lines and the feeders is a lot easier and getting under the layout to work on that stuff is WAY easier. Plus the added benefit of tons of under layout storage. I took the suggestion of one of my fellow NMRA Div8 members and built little dollies from scrap plywood with casters to stack the boxes on and then slide under the layout. what a dream for easy to access storage. HIGHLY reccommend steel studs for bench work.

[MECman]

Thanks for the info--sounds like a great way to go. Do you have any photos of your benchwork?

 Thanks,

David

[jjackso8]

As a matter of fact I do and will try to get them up ASAP. it will be my first time so bear with me!!

[MECman]

Take your time--I don't know how to do it (post pix) either!

 David

[tomikawaTT]

My layout is framed entirely with steel studs (except for 2x4 legs under one of the 2 peninsulas,) "C acts like L" girder construction.  I use heavywall studs for long span C girders and standard thickness for everything else (joists, C girders on shelf brackets, risers, jack studs where needed...)

My tools are a pair of tin snips, a hack saw (easier than snips for the heavywall stud material,) bending pliers and a whole bunch of clamps, plus a cordless drill and crosspoint bits, long and short.  Except for bolts at a couple of places where disassembly is anticipated, all of my fasteners are short framing screws (made specifically for assembling steel studs.)  I also fasten cookie-cut plywood subgrade to the flanges bent into the tops of steel-stud risers with the same screws.  All fasteners go in from the underside, in classic Linn Westcott fashion.

My rails (Atlas flex and hand-laid specialwork) are caulked to cardstock templates, which are caulked to thin foam (fan-fold underlayment.)  The foam (contoured to roadbed profile) is caulked to 1/2 inch (or less) plywood.  In operation, the only noise is that generated by (and heard directly from) the locomotive - and my quieter locos seem to have developed stealth capability.  There is no discernable noise from the framing.

Here in the dessicated desert, steel studs have several advantages over wood:

• The studs and their fastenings are less expensive than decent-quality wood.
• Lack of humidity doesn't cause steel to assume unusual (and unuseable) shapes.
• The assembled stud framework is far less massive than wood.  Before it was anchored to the wall, I could easily lift one end of my 5 x 13 peninsula with three fingers.  If I had used equivalent-size wood I would have needed a fork lift.
• The steel is almost 100% recycleable if fate requires you to dismantle a layout.  Even the screws can be recovered and re-used.
• Steel is dimensionally stable, unlike wood (which is NOT a precision material)

I have been using this system for three years (including one false start, when I only had title to half of the 2-car garage) and I am totally satisfied with the results I have achieved.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[concretelackey]

My experience with similar materials in a different application dictate the use of duct tape on any and all sharp edges. Even if the edge is not sharp enough to break skin it can and will snag clothing and keep in mind the possibility of little ones walking head first into/under it.

DUCT TAPE= low cost injury insurance/prevention.

[baron9]

 My layout is constructed with metal studs and am very happy with the outcome. I then covered the top with plywood then2" foamboard. Believe me steel studs was alot easier and cleaner than working with wood.  Using a steel cutting blade in my  power miter saw, some clamps and self tapping screws. Oh by the way invest in some good quality screws its worth the price.I then used WS foam roadbed glued to the foamboard and then flex track glued on the roadbed. I don't hear much difference between cork and foam roadbed as I use both on my layout. Afterall it will get ballasted anyway which will effect the noise. My layout is approx.34'x14' around the walls and free standing. It is strong enough that I can sit on top of it.

[Phoebe Vet]

I was very happy to see this thread.

I have stood in Lowes and looked at that stuff and wondered ........

[aav]

I was very happy to see this thread.

I have stood in Lowes and looked at that stuff and wondered ........

       I'll second that.   I'm building a double deck and i'm thinking the lighter weight of the steel would make it easier to support the second level.

        I hope somebody can get some pictures up to get a better visual of it.

[djb39]

I am in the process planning a new HO layout after an absense of 12 years from the hobby.  Have wondered about steel instead of wood benchwork frame.  Difficult to visualize the construction from the written description.  Would also appreciate some detailed photos of the benchwork before covered with scenery & sub bed.

 Thanks, Don 

[majortom]

I'm interested in steel for a new layout as well.  My question is can an around the walls layout be attached using just brackets attached to wall studs?  Could I do this with a shelf about 3' wide and about 30' long?

 

Thanks,  Major Tom

Illinois Central, Centralia Division

[BATMAN]

Just remember the steel studs have NO strength on the horizontal (unlike a wood 2x4) You would never be able to put your weight on it if you had to reach any distance across the bench. I built a 10' x 12' roof for a dog run the 2x4 steel joist were on 16" centre's with 3/8 plywood on top. It buckled and collapsed with 1 foot of wet snow on it. I also thought of using steel studs for the benchwork but was glad I didn't as those after construction under benchwork modifications would be a real pain trying to alter metal studs. Also metal bits from drilling and sawing in place studs do wonders for the electrical works. I used 1x4 gridwork with foam and for me it was the right decision.

[tomikawaTT]

The portion of my benchwork attached to the garage wall is supported on brackets fitted to slotted tracks.  I screwed small cross-section steel studs 24" long to the 16" shelf brackets, then set standard (nominal 2 X 4) steel studs (open sides facing the aisle) as C-girders with about 1" clearance at the rear and at the front edge.  (This will eventually support three levels of track, one between the C-girder studs.)  My "shelf edge" will be somewhat free-form, max anticipated about 30", set by the joists which will eventually be placed on top of the C-girders.

I would think the limitation on shelf width would be the anticipated load and the strength of the brackets and their anchors.  In my case, the slotted tracks are anchored to the wall studs with 3" deck screws.  The weak link is probably the tabs at the slot ends of the shelf brackets - which shouldn't be a problem unless you're planning to run 1:12 scale live steam.

Using the more common stamped sheet metal L brackets, the load factor can be even higher.

Hope this helps.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)