A lot of people seem to like to use latex caulking. It lets you peel the stuff up later if you like. I use CA on the track ever 4"-5" personally. I like being able to get everything pinned into place just as I want then apply CA without having to remove the track. I don't think I will be able to easily re-use the track were I to have to pry it up, though.
I used Liquid nails for projects on the cork roadbed, but may try using the latex on that next time around. The glue was hard to remove when I had to rip up some roadbed and doesnt have the same considerations for me that the track did. Not impossible to remove, just a lot of scraping. On the plus side the liquid nails adhered quickly.
Chris
Cheap latex(not acrylic) caulk works very well. I like the clear. Spred it very thin and lay the roadbed and the use it to lay the track. It needs to be weighted over night. It comes up with a putty knife when needed(and it is eventually needed).
By the way, welcome to the forum
Kenseth03,
Read the last few issues of Model Railroader. Their project layout offers very good "how-tos" for track laying and roadbed installation. Even though it's an HO project, the methods should work just as well for N.
If your sub-roadbed is plywood, particle board, Homasote, or extruded foam, plain old white glue should work fine for affixing the cork roadbed. White glue is much more forgiving than hot glue during installation, it's easier to work with (no gun necessary), and a whole lot easier to deal with if you need to remove and replace any of the roadbed.
I've successfully used white glue for fastening track to cork. The MR articles I cited above suggest latex caulk. I say, experiment with both and use what you like best. I strongly suggest you do not use track nails unless absolutely necessary.
chicochip
Glad to have you aboard!
I'll second the warning about using track nails. I do use them to hold things in place but you must be very careful not to set the track nail to firmly against the tie or you will pull the tie down causing the track to go out of gauge which leads to derailments etc. Nailing too firmly can also damage the ties. Just my
chicochip wrote:I've successfully used white glue for fastening track to cork.
I've successfully used white glue for fastening track to cork.
I have been meaning to try that as an alternative to latex or CA on my turnouts.. someone in another forum was advocating that because they could reposition track just by wetting it.. or completely clean it by soaking it in water.
I am working on a 8x11 N-Scale layout and would also suggest using latex caulk for attaching cork roadbed, I spread it thin with a few of those fake plastic credit cards I am always getting in the mail. This way it is well attached yet I can easily remove a section if I need to modify my track plan. The only time I used my wife's hotmelt glue gun was to attach cardboard strips to wood framework for my mountain scenery prior to adding plaster scenic cloth. She warned me several times about getting the hot glue on my fingers but I didn't listen, big mistake!
Mike B.
ARTHILL wrote:Cheap latex(not acrylic) caulk works very well. I like the clear. Spred it very thin and lay the roadbed and the use it to lay the track. It needs to be weighted over night. It comes up with a putty knife when needed(and it is eventually needed). By the way, welcome to the forum
to the Forums.
I second what Art says. Art is one of the wise men on these Forums and has a lot of experience. As I have highlighted in Art's reply above, the trick is to,
1) Draw out your proposed track plan with a single centreline.
2) Split your cork roadbed down the perforated middle so that you have 2 pieces.
3) Run a thin bead of the Latex Caulk down one side of the centreline about half the distance from the centreline to the outside edge and spread it thinly with a narrow spatula, about 1" wide. DO NOT GO ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE LINE. If the latex hardens over the line, it will cause an uneven roadbed that MAY cause you problems when you come to run trains.
4) Place your first piece of roadbed in place with the 90 degree edge up against the line and weight it in place and continue on with one side. After it is set, (next day?) repeat with the second side. After the caulk is completely set, sand the top of the cork roadbed so that it is smooth and level.
5) Install your track using the same proceedure, a small bead down the centre of the roadbed and spread to the edge of the ties. Use rail joiners to join the track sections but be sure to get the base of the rail into the joiner.
For other info such as wiring or soldering track joiners, just use the search function at the bottom of each page of the Forum. Just type in a couple of key words and hit search. You will find a wealth of information there. If you still need help, just ask, someone will always help out.
Good luck.
Blue Flamer.
Mike B wrote:The only time I used my wife's hotmelt glue gun was to attach cardboard strips to wood framework for my mountain scenery prior to adding plaster scenic cloth. She warned me several times about getting the hot glue on my fingers but I didn't listen, big mistake!Mike B.
Been there, done that!
I would not use the hot melt glue for roadbed or track either. Just my .