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foam layout surface

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  • Member since
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foam layout surface
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 25, 2008 3:27 PM

hi, i have my table up (8X8) and was thinking about putting foam over the plywood for a surface i think it will be easier to build the layout and deaden noise but i do not know.

what foam do i get?

 how thick?

thanks 

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Posted by arkansasrailfan on Friday, January 25, 2008 5:16 PM
Pink Panther foam, which is at Home Depot and is 1" thick, and there is blue foam, which is the same thickness. Do not use any plastic weld or PVC glue, beacuse you will melt the foam. Use Gorilla glue and Elmer's.
-Michael It's baaaacccckkkk!!!!!! www.youtube.com/user/wyomingrailfan
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Posted by dand200 on Saturday, January 26, 2008 6:03 AM

Racer, foam insulation board is what you're looking for.  Where I am, it comes in pink and blue and you can find the stuff in many different sizes, including 1/2", 1", 1 1/2", and 2".  My recommendation is 1" or 1 1/2" for a base and 2" for building up scenery, also if you have the money use a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails.  They make an adhesive that is made specifically for foam, and won't melt it.

Did you post the track plan that looked like it had a support beam in the middle of it, that you said was at your parents house?  How you use the foam and what your topographical features are going to be will make a big difference in how you proceed.  If you are going to have a level track plan with hils or mountains in between, you could use cork as roadbed then cut and stack foam for terrain.  If you have grades and tunnels and so forth, 1", or 1/2" foam is a good base layer.  You don't want to go any thicker because it makes wiring tough and installing any type of switch machine very difficult if you choose to go that route.  Stacking foam pieces is a great way to build up hils or other terrain features.

Unless noise is a very important consideration, I don't think you should look to foam strictly as a noise solution.  Cork roadbed on plywood is definitely louder than track on foam, but I don't believe its so much of a difference that you must put foam down.  Unless you're going to run a dozen trains at once, the noise shouldn't be that much of a problem.

Just my opinions, good luck.

Dan

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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 26, 2008 10:37 AM

ok, thanks for the advice but niose isnt a problem can i just lay the cork and track on the plywood and then use foam to make terrain around the track woukd that be easier?

thanks

jason 

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Posted by bogp40 on Saturday, January 26, 2008 9:54 PM
 TRX450R racer wrote:

ok, thanks for the advice but niose isnt a problem can i just lay the cork and track on the plywood and then use foam to make terrain around the track woukd that be easier?

thanks

jason 

You can do exactly that if you choose, the only drawback to laying directly on the ply is any elevations below the track surface (gullies, rivers, lakes etc) will need to be cut out of plywood. Also planting trees on the level area will be more difficult (drill hole in ply instead of just poking a hole in foam and planting). The use of even just 1" foam will give you such better options for your scenery when the time arises. Just a thought.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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Posted by AltoonaRailroader on Sunday, January 27, 2008 7:40 AM

Most people I've seen use 2" extruded foam either blue or pink. You can get it in 4x8 sheets at  building supply places, mostly Lowe's or Home Depot if you're in the states. Due to money reasons I only went with one layer of 1.5" foam board because it was $40 for one sheet of 2". Ouch!! But it does the work and even at 1.5" it is still much quieter than running on just plain plywood, the cork roadbed does help with noise also. Hope this helps.

 

 

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Posted by loathar on Sunday, January 27, 2008 11:28 AM
It's gonna be a real bugger to reach into the middle of an 8x8 if you don't have some kind of access or control pit.My 2 cents [2c]
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Posted by desertdog on Monday, January 28, 2008 12:03 PM

Unless you want really deep ravines, the 2" foam will allow you to carve in some realistic detail such as drainage ditches and small creeks.  You can also carve a section of two of fill.

I have one section of my layout that is four layers of pink board thick. 

John Timm

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Posted by djb39 on Sunday, February 3, 2008 2:41 PM

Planning new layout.  Was considering homasote on plywood, with flex track spiked directly onto the homasote.   If I use foam, what support does it need under it?  Do you still need plywood under the foam?   Can you spike the flex track on the foam, or do you need to glue the track down on the form or onto cork on top of foam?

Don
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 3, 2008 8:22 PM

exactly how do you attach the

Cork to the foam? do you use a latex caulk

the track to the cork?  do you use nails? 

 

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Posted by UP Clark on Sunday, February 3, 2008 11:33 PM

 I just got done laying 50' of cork and flex. I have pretty good success with Gorilla Glue for adhesive and srtaight pins for nailing the cork and track into position. (prior to ballasting).

You should be stingy with Gorilla Glue as it tends to "grow". Similar to Mountains in Minutes. It can even seep through the crack in the center or around the edges of roadbed. It can be somewhat of a blessing  if you use just the right amount. It will glue the ties right to the roadbed  if you're lucky. LOL!

I really like straight pins over nails, they're cheap and a lot easier to push into the foam  base. With the added length, IMHO, they hold quite well.

 

 

 

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Posted by The Old Man on Monday, February 4, 2008 12:40 PM

 wyomingrailfan wrote:
Pink Panther foam, which is at Home Depot and is 1" thick, and there is blue foam, which is the same thickness. Do not use any plastic weld or PVC glue, beacuse you will melt the foam. Use Gorilla glue and Elmer's.

Can someone confirm that this stuff, neither the blue nor pink, is available in CA stores?

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Posted by fwright on Monday, February 4, 2008 2:32 PM

It (pink or blue foam) is available in California, but very rarely at a Home Depot or Lowe's.  Your best bet is a building contractor supply or independent lumber yard, and even then it may require a special order.

Fred W 

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