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Installing Tortoise switch machine

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Installing Tortoise switch machine
Posted by mgruber on Thursday, January 24, 2008 2:04 PM
My layout is pretty well established and I'm using Caboose Hobby grown throws. Would it be possible to install Tortoise switch machines without tearing up ballasted turnouts or am I hosed? Thanks in advance, Mike.
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Posted by DigitalGriffin on Thursday, January 24, 2008 2:13 PM

 mgruber wrote:
My layout is pretty well established and I'm using Caboose Hobby grown throws. Would it be possible to install Tortoise switch machines without tearing up ballasted turnouts or am I hosed? Thanks in advance, Mike.

I would say you are about 99.9% hosed.  You need to drill a 1/4" hole beneath the turnout throw bar.  It could be to the side near the throwout, but this is still extremely tricky.  The working ground throws really aren't compatible any way.

You could take a small drill bit and drill from the top near the throwout bar.  The hole on the underside would give you a rough indication where your big hole needs to be.  Then using a mill end drill bit (AKA Forstner bit) you could drill from the bottom up very very slowly.  Like I said, it's risky....you could end up eating your throwbar and ground throw!

 

 

Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions

Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!

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Posted by jbinkley60 on Thursday, January 24, 2008 3:11 PM
 DigitalGriffin wrote:

 mgruber wrote:
My layout is pretty well established and I'm using Caboose Hobby grown throws. Would it be possible to install Tortoise switch machines without tearing up ballasted turnouts or am I hosed? Thanks in advance, Mike.

I would say you are about 99.9% hosed.  You need to drill a 1/4" hole beneath the turnout throw bar.  It could be to the side near the throwout, but this is still extremely tricky.  The working ground throws really aren't compatible any way.

You could take a small drill bit and drill from the top near the throwout bar.  The hole on the underside would give you a rough indication where your big hole needs to be.  Then using a mill end drill bit (AKA Forstner bit) you could drill from the bottom up very very slowly.  Like I said, it's risky....you could end up eating your throwbar and ground throw!

I've used this approach with great success.  I use a 3/8" bit from underneath with a drill stop.  The size of the hole depends on whether it is HO or N scale. 

 

Engineer Jeff NS Nut
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Posted by BlueHillsCPR on Thursday, January 24, 2008 3:54 PM
My father had a spade wood bit in 7/16" that he used for drilling holes like that.  He would start the hole with a regular spade bit to get the hole centered properly but not drill far enough to penetrate the upper surface, then he would switch to his "customized" bit that had the point ground right off to leave a flat bottomed spade.  The bit would clean out the rest of the material without drilling into anything on top.  Of course a drill stop is a good idea and go slow...let the bit take you through with little force on the drill or...DOH, new turnout.  Just make the appropriate sized bit and away you go.
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Posted by mgruber on Thursday, January 24, 2008 4:35 PM
This is in ho. Am I correct is saying I need to drill a hole under the throw bar on the side of the turnout and not directly under the turnout itself? Mike
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Posted by DigitalGriffin on Thursday, January 24, 2008 4:42 PM

 mgruber wrote:
This is in ho. Am I correct is saying I need to drill a hole under the throw bar on the side of the turnout and not directly under the turnout itself? Mike

I think it would be a little less risky putting the hole on the side throwbar, as the turnout ties rest right up against the roadbed.  The throwbar to the side sits up a little.  And there are less ties around to snag with that drill bit.

But that's just my very humble opinion.  I have yet to try this.  Just brainstorming.

 

Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions

Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!

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Posted by BlueHillsCPR on Thursday, January 24, 2008 5:03 PM

 mgruber wrote:
This is in ho. Am I correct is saying I need to drill a hole under the throw bar on the side of the turnout and not directly under the turnout itself? Mike

You can do it either way but to the side is less likely to damage the turnout.  Others mention that to the side is tricky too?

If you have cork under the turnout maybe just drill out the sub-roadbed and then remove the cork more carfully? 

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Posted by BigRusty on Monday, January 28, 2008 3:38 PM

You can drill a small diameter hole about 3/8ths from the throw bar on the track center line. Press fit a length of brass tube into the hole flush with the tie tops.  Ball pen tubes work great.  Bend a paper clip at right angles and cut off about 1/8th inch from the bend. Make another 90 degree bend, the distance from the hole in the throwbar to the brass tube. Slde the paper clip down the tube, seating the short end into the throw bar hole. Now bend the underside of the clip at 90 degrees in the direction you want to mount the turnout motor.

This method can also be used at the end of the throw bar if you prefer.

Modeling the New Haven Railroad in the transition era
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Posted by larak on Monday, January 28, 2008 10:04 PM

... Also, if you accidentally damage the throwbar while drilling you can replace it with a PC board type soldered in.

Karl 

The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open.  www.stremy.net

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