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dcc or regular many questions!

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dcc or regular many questions!
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 11:52 AM

im not sure what dcc is exactly but i do know it allows 2 locomotives too run on the came track at different speeds or directions right?

well, can i have 2 different mainlines but they are connected at 1 or 2 crossover points but still have regular track current or do i have to have dcc?  And maybe have 1 loco on one and another on the other line?

if i cant have different locomotives i can still have 2 mainlines with a crossover point or 2 right

i just want to clarify this before i go building it and find it dont work because i dont want to put in dcc or is easier than i think it is?

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Posted by selector on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 12:04 PM
Many guys have dual use layouts, if that is what you mean.  They have a separated DCC main and utility tracks, and they also run DC trains on separately powered DC rails.  You can use switches (electrical ones) to make the entire layout DC or DCC with the flip of a switch.  Just be sure you know how it will affect your two types of locomotives. 
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 12:05 PM

You can have two mainline loops with DC if the crossover is insulated and you have two power supplies. As soon as you start talking in terms of two power supplies, you are looking at about the cost of a starter DCC unit.

DCC is easier to wire and easier to operate multiple units.

DCC is also the state of the hobby and starting out with DC is like investing your money in cassette tapes when MP3s have been around for years.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by tstage on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 12:08 PM
 TRX450R racer wrote:
im not sure what dcc is exactly but i do know it allows 2 locomotives too run on the came track at different speeds or directions right?

Correct. 

well, can i have 2 different mainlines but they are connected at 1 or 2 crossover points but still have regular track current or do i have to have dcc?  And maybe have 1 loco on one and another on the other line?

Jason, it's best to keep DC and DCC separate.  They are NOT compatible.  You could put in a switch to flip from one to the other.  It would be an either/or situation though.

if i cant have different locomotives i can still have 2 mainlines with a crossover point or 2 right

Again, either run DC or DCC on your layout but not simultaneously.  The two are NOT compatible together.

i just want to clarify this before i go building it and find it dont work because i dont want to put in dcc or is easier than i think it is?

Jason, here's a link to a primer on DCC from Tony's Train Exchange that should be helpful for you:

DCC for Beginners

You can either read it online or download it as a .pdf file onto your computer.  It will help you better understand DCC, what it can do, and how to set it up.

Hope that helps... 

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 12:08 PM

ok i want 2 main loops with them connected at a crossover

how much is it to get into dcc moneywise ?

how do i go about doing it (all this is new to me )  

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Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 12:48 PM
 TRX450R racer wrote:

ok i want 2 main loops with them connected at a crossover

how much is it to get into dcc moneywise ?

how do i go about doing it (all this is new to me )  

It's kind of like buying a car. You can get a Yugo for $60, a Toyota for $150 or a BMW for $600.

For two loops, I'd look in the $120 to $160 range (MRC, NCE, or Digitrax) These systems are expandable and will grow with you.

Wiring is a matter of putting two wires to the track.  

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by 60YOKID on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 7:58 PM

Personally Chip, I kind of prefer a Chevy!  Just kidding!Big Smile [:D]

I agree with the others and would like to add that to use DCC requires that a "Decoder" be installed in each engine.  Each decoder is assigned a unique address number.  Decoders cost about $15 to $35 per engine + installation.  Some locos are available with factory decoders built-in, for under $40 complete.

Also, some DCC sets allow you to operate one DC locomotive in addition to a number of decoder equipped locos. I know the Digitrax Zephyr does this and other brands may also.  As Spacemouse points out, wiring to a moderate sized layout is very easy.

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 9:56 PM
cool i called the hobby shop today and they said that i could get into it for about 200 to 250 bucks so... i think i will get it from them they always do me good there.  my last layout was dc  but i  just took that one down  i saved track  eveything else went in the  fire  (literally)  i dodnt have much scenery at all  so i didnt lose anything  really it was a  crappy layout  threw to gether  quickly so now im in the process of building a nice  table  at least 8x8  hopefully bigger and im going to do it nice this time knowing i have a permanent spot thistime Sign - Off Topic!! [#offtopic] so yeah
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Posted by selector on Tuesday, January 22, 2008 10:00 PM

Sounds like a plan.   You do have a plan?

8X8 should be a nice size to work with, but make doubly sure you can reach everything.  Practically, one's reach over trees and buildings is about 28".  You can't fix what you can't reach.

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 7:23 AM

I'm going to snow on your parade (cold here this morning) but I hope to save you aggravation and money.

Do NOT build a layout where some of the tracks are DC and some DCC, unless there is NO WAY you can get from one set of tracks to the other.  Yes, you can put insulators between the sections, and carefully check that you've wired it correctly.  Yes, you can run your engines on each loop independently, one on DC, the other on DCC, and they will work fine.  But, when you cross from one to the other, the engines will, for a short time, bridge the gap of your insulators.  This has a high probability of frying the decoder in the engine ($15-$150, toast) and possibly the whole DCC system (even costlier toast.)

Believe me.  This won't really be an issue.  Once you run your first DCC loco, you'll understand that you want all your locos to be DCC.  Make the commitment, and upgrade your whole fleet.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 24, 2008 12:38 PM
ok im going to get DCC but i dont have the money right now but i do have a DC power pack can i use that to test my track once i get it layed down than when i can get the money i will buy DCC will that work?
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Posted by Vail and Southwestern RR on Thursday, January 24, 2008 12:47 PM

 TRX450R racer wrote:
ok im going to get DCC but i dont have the money right now but i do have a DC power pack can i use that to test my track once i get it layed down than when i can get the money i will buy DCC will that work?

That you can do.  It will work fine, esoecually if you just one one train in your DC phase.  You can wire everything as though you were using DCC, and test everything out, other than DCC sepcific components, for instance a reverse loop controller.

Jeff But it's a dry heat!

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