XMarine wrote:in the past I used DPDT (one for signaling and one for track power).
83' x ~20' sounds like a really large layout or club. Make no apologies for going DC, as a friend says "I want something I can fix". In my case I couldn't justify the cost of decoders at the time. Thinking about your signals, it might be more prototypical to have a "no-green-no-go" indicator. That way there's no ambiguity for the locodriver.
Have fun...George
Not panel signals, block signals by the track. This is because the layout will be 83' long and 20' wide at points. There will be several control panels for local cab operations and a single main line cab (radio controlled) so that the engineer can follow the main line train around the layout.
Side note: Due to the large number of pre-80's locomotives that would be very expensive to convert, the layout is old fashioned DC power.
XMarine wrote:I figured on the block signals being powered by the cab that is controlling the track.
What switch type are you using for your block control now? Is it a SPDT with one wire to the track or are you using DPDT with two wires to the track?
As someone else mentioned you could use a simple SPST switch and a relay with the 3PDT contacts.
Hi, using a dpdt switch is the cheapest way to go.
a) Connect the 2 power supplies' negative outputs together, and wire that connection to 1 rail. This creates a common-rail system. Then connect the other (+) wires from the supplies to the Normally-Open sides of 1/2 of the switch, 1 wire to each. Connect the centre contact of that 1/2 of the switch to the other rail, and you now have a switchable block between the 2 supplies. I recommend you gap both rails at each end of the block.
b) Now for the light.. Use the AC output of the 'local' power supply and a suitable dropping series-resistor to limit the current to what your LED will handle, and wire 1 wire to the other 1/2 of that DPDT switch, using the centre contact. Wire the LED from the N/O contact that will allow the LED to light when the 'local' (not 'Mainline') power supply is actively connected to the track. Use a red LED to signal that the Main is interrupted. When the 'Main' pwr supply is active, the LED will be off. If you want 2 Leds, 1 for each supply, add a 2nd LED and wire it to the opposing N/O contact. Make that one green, and it'll light when the 'Main' supply is active.
You could use the other supply if having a dark indicator (only 1 LED present) for mainline 'OK' bothers you. I hesitate to recommend you couple the 2 supplies in common more than once. I have some that do not separate the AC and DC outputs completely. A cheap Battery eliminator would work ok in place of the track-supply's AC output; the advantage being the LEDs would always be ready for power, even if the track supply isn't turned on.
Have fun.... George
I am assuming you are meaning indicator lights on your panel not block signals by the tracks.
I have seen just recentley 4PDT switches on Ebay. Otherwise couldn't you use snap relays?
Maybe I am misunderstanding your intent here?
Edit: Or like Larak said
1) Use a multipole relay
2) Keep one rail common to both packs and only switch the other. On the second pole of your switch, switch power to the bipolar LED.
These are the two simple solutions. There are other I suspect.
Karl
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