Tim,
Thanks for stopping in. Without going into details I'll say I buillt several slot car tracks with Hossie Neilson, known for his 1/24 scale competition tracks that are still in use throughout the world.
Unlike the Hossie Nielson tracks, the benchwork you want to use is much easier to build.
Using "T"girder or "L" girder shouldn't matter. I perfer, and use "L" girders because there's no need for "T" girders.
1"x6" is more than overkill and not worth using. 1x4's are more than enough support for any HO, 1/32, or 1/24 scale track.
From the looks of your picture, 1/2" plywood on top of 1" x 4" "L" girder bench work would be more than adequate. I would use cookie cutter type roadbed for your track to rest upon.
My nephew has a large, competition, 4 lane, HO slot car track in his basement that uses 1" x 4" s for the benchwork. Believe me, they will support the track and anything you want to sit on it.
Bill
Someone else might have a better idea but I would do something like this I think.
racetrack-benchwork
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
trucks wrote:thank's for the suggestions going with the 1x4" L-grider system got the wood today going to let it set in the basement for a week then build. the benchwork that bluehills cpr drew up is exactly what i was looking for, the walls will have the blue insulation sheets covering them probably airbrush some clouds on them. the lighting i'm doing that today. the theme of the track is the apache trail i am going to add a lake and possibly the tressle system that the pine top bridge is using for my elevation on the back straight as there is another straight below it. the land scaping will be a desert mountian landscape. there are alot of great idea's on this forum i diffently will be lurking around agian thank's for all the help Tim
Long ago, when I did slots, I built my entire elevated roadway by drilling dowels into pine blocks for the support piers. The lengths can be cut for any grade. Once painted they looked like concrete. I don't know what "trestle" system you're using, but scratch built works good also.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
concretelackey wrote:Whatever you do make sure you allow for QUICK AND EASY access to your pressure tank in the corner!!!!
Also, you had better stay away from that GAS FIRED WATER HEATER. Some local codes require certain minimum distances for serviceing, (2+ft.). Room to exchange the tank WHEN it starts leaking and most important, clearance from combustbles. It is better to be safe than sorry. Take it from someone who spent the better part of 40+ years in the Gas Industry and turned off MANY gas appliances including furnaces in the middle of winter because someone built a combustible wall or cupboard right up against an appliance.
Forewarned is forearmed.
Blue Flamer.
Glad to help. Put some 2" X 2" legs in appropriate places on that benchwork with some 1" X 2" angle braces and triangles of plywood for gussets where the angle joins the leg and it will be good and solid. I was thinking you could attach the one side to the wall but for access etc. you might want it more modular.
trucks wrote:first let me say hello, newbie here ihave question on l-grider consrtuction i am building a slot car track a would like to use the l-grider system the dimension's of the track are 9'x20' there will be a small entry in the center for access. i plan to use 1x6 material and make it a t-grider are there any advantages by using 1x6 over 1x4 material, what would be the maw overhang from the griders. iam not sure how to tie the three sections together to form a u shape layout here is a pic of my layout any advice will be helpful on designing the bench work thank's Tim
Is this basement fairly dry? I just noticed staining or efforecence by the blue tank. Before building the benchwork you may want to paint those walls against the layout. I would a decent masonry sealer. Just a thought.
1 1/4" screws may be a bit short. Once you penetrate the 3/4" thickness you only have 1/2" of screw left. Of that 1/2", about 1/4" is the tapered "drilling" part. I'd suggest 1 1/2" to 2" with pilot holes. Coarse thread screws require a bit more control on the trigger of the drill as to not sink the head to far and split the wood.
Glue would be great to create structural rigidity BUT you ain't ever taking it apart easily. If you think future needs may require disassembly I suggest bolting the cross braces/legs to the table.
concretelackey wrote: 1 1/4" screws may be a bit short. Once you penetrate the 3/4" thickness you only have 1/2" of screw left. Of that 1/2", about 1/4" is the tapered "drilling" part. I'd suggest 1 1/2" to 2" with pilot holes. Coarse thread screws require a bit more control on the trigger of the drill as to not sink the head to far and split the wood. Glue would be great to create structural rigidity BUT you ain't ever taking it apart easily. If you think future needs may require disassembly I suggest bolting the cross braces/legs to the table.
I agree, the 1 1/4" is too short. 1 5/8" and 2" would be better.
If you don't have one of the drill/ driver sets (Stanley, Makita, Dewalt other) this would be a good investment. http://www.shopping.com/xPC-Makita_8_Phillips_Drill_Driver_Kit This is only showing a single #8. The sets for about $20 have #6, 8, 10 and 12. These are a fantastic tool. I have been using these professionally for over 16 years or whenever they came out. It will drill/ countersink and flip it around for the phillips bit to drive the screw.
bogp40 wrote:I agree, the 1 1/4" is too short. 1 5/8" and 2" would be better.If you don't have one of the drill/ driver sets (Stanley, Makita, Dewalt other) this would be a good investment. http://www.shopping.com/xPC-Makita_8_Phillips_Drill_Driver_Kit This is only showing a single #8. The sets for about $20 have #6, 8, 10 and 12. These are a fantastic tool. I have been using these professionally for over 16 years or whenever they came out. It will drill/ countersink and flip it around for the phillips bit to drive the screw.
Yes, longer screws. I actually don't like to use drywall screws either. Deck screws are my preference. Drilling before screwing is a GREAT idea! A lot less splits with that method. Glue is a good idea unless you ever want to take it apart. I wouldn't glue the legs and if you think you may need to break it into sections one day, don't glue the joints where it comes apart. A good method for making sections that come apart easily is to use 3" butt hinges to span the joint. Pull the pins and the joint separates. Easy.
My personal preference...Throw those phillips screws away and buy some robertson screws and a robertson driver. Just my
thought that i would post a few pic's of my track and the idea's i pick up from this forum thank's alot. Tim
truck
You don't seem to notice : not grider but girder
Paul
you may be into slot cars, but i give you credit ( 2 thumbs up!) for widening your eyes to get ideas from us model railroaders. oh, is that a train i see in the background of the latest pic??
i knew you were an allright guy. any vidoes of the racing action?