Instead of using a mixture of white glue diluted with "wet water", its seems to be very easy and effective to use hair spray (from a pump bottle and applied with a syringe). Any reason why I shouldn't use hair spray? Does it degrade after time?
Thanks!
Thanks Art - I think I will keep using it - sure make the train room smell good too!
I got up to Becker's Railroad Supply near you a few weeks ago. I was a kid in a candy store. I think I saw they sell used locomotives - is it on a consignment basis or do they buy and sell used stock? Right now I only have invested in some cheap IHC steam - but would like to try more expensive - this might be a good way for me to try them out. Even though I am running DC, I would like some of the sound options.
Thank you for the kind invitation. My fear is that after viewing your incredible layout I would be depressed and would want to give on my efforts! Can I ask another question?.... I am detailing my rails (rust/grey) - and I am happy with the results except for the shiny top surface that I believe I can't paint without compromising electrical contact. As I study pictures in MR, it seems other modelers have in some way dulled the rail tops. Is there some special paint that conducts electricity?
nah dude, all you gotta do is apply some sort of oil to the railtop or wipe it off instantly after you paint it. i found some ooooooold oil that i used proably 15 years ago when i was only like 5 or 6 to lubricate my dads Lionel train engines. it worked; i got out some canola cooking oil but didn't try that.
do you have any pictures of your rail? I'm trying to find as many pictures/methods of people painting the sides of their rail to look rusty. i got some Polyscale Utility Orange paint the other day, and i like it a lot; just kinda hard to use. its a little bright, and i tried brushing some sierra scale models black weathering powder, but it didnt look too good.
Wayzata Modeler wrote: Instead of using a mixture of white glue diluted with "wet water", its seems to be very easy and effective to use hair spray (from a pump bottle and applied with a syringe). Any reason why I shouldn't use hair spray? Does it degrade after time? Thanks!
I've used the aerosol type hair spray (extra hold) for years, to secure the "mortar" in my plastic brick panels. Just wipe the rail heads immediately after spraying.
Test a small area first. You might find that the hairspray does not sink in deeply enough.
Just a thought, never tried it myself. Diluted matte medium works fine for me.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
This is one of those ideas that sounds wacky but needs to be tried.
Hair spray might have a use if you want a light coating of ballast and anticipate changing your track often, in the manner of David Barrow (who has at times used minimal loose ballast or none at all, with flex track -- after having a layout with handlaid Code 70 rail and traditional ballast.
But if you want a more permanent ballast that bonds the track in place I think you will find hair spray just does not have the degree and permanence of cohesion you probably seek -- which is why the ladies can brush it out of their hair after all. Also you are trying to bond maybe 1/8 inch of ballast which calls for quite a bit of fluid to mix in with the little rocks.
There is one old trick that I think John Allen used. Mix dry powdered glue in with your ballast. That way when you wet it you are also wetting that glue, with whatever fluid, be it hairspray or matte medium or Woodland Scenics scenic cement (which I think is diluted matte medium). To break surface tension a light spray of pure alcohol helps
Dave Nelson
I agree that the (laquer) hair spray is not going to give you a real saturated, penetrating bond for the ballast. Touch ups, yes, I usually use a generic, non scented pump for scenery, great for trees and for all refreshing of install scenery. Grab them when on sale of a closeout.
Diluted white glue or matte medium with drop of detergent and the use of isopropyl alcohol in the mix or wet water will give you well bonded ballast.
I feel that the hairspray bond is not that strong or lasting. Plus, that's a lot of hairspray even if your pouring it on. Try to use the unscented-- The smell can knock you out and takes a long time to dissapate.
And just a note for those having trouble with the light, walnut shell WS ballast. Other threads show some having problems with it floating and blowing about when wetting. I let the first wetting of "wet water" be a light mist and let it rain down. As it gets wetter, you can direct more spray at the ballast without it moving. Experimentation to just how wet and your proven technique lets you if it's ready for the glue.
Heavily weathered yard tracks
Ligther on mains and well maintained interchanges
Starting w/ weathered rail is a plus.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I don't seem to have any problem with penetration all the way through my ballast using hairspray. I would guess its durabilty, as compared to a diluted glue, probably isnt as good. In some ways, that may a good thing as further scenery construction occurs - allows for easier removal if further construction dictates.
Still wondering about dulling the top of my rails. The sides are painted, but the real shiny rail top just stands out and compromises a realistic appearance. Any tips / ideas anyone ?
Wayzata Modeler wrote: I don't seem to have any problem with penetration all the way through my ballast using hairspray. I would guess its durabilty, as compared to a diluted glue, probably isnt as good. In some ways, that may a good thing as further scenery construction occurs - allows for easier removal if further construction dictates. Still wondering about dulling the top of my rails. The sides are painted, but the real shiny rail top just stands out and compromises a realistic appearance. Any tips / ideas anyone ?
If you're talking about a regularly used line, the shiny looking top is the way you want the rail to look. Check out the real thing. The shiny top is realistic, unless it's a rarely used siding or abandoned line.
Wayzata Modeler wrote: Still wondering about dulling the top of my rails. The sides are painted, but the real shiny rail top just stands out and compromises a realistic appearance. Any tips / ideas anyone ?
The Micro Engineering pre weathered flex track and rail has a dark brown rail that includes the tops. It is a patina, not a paint, so it conducts electricity.
Micro Engineering sells the patina fluid in small bottles. A repeated application with a cotton swab should slightly dull the tops of the rails if that is indeed the effect you want.
I suggest trying it with a scrap piece of track first to see how many applications it takes. Maybe only one or two BUT some makes of track initially take on a greenish tinge and need several applications before you get the rusty brown of the pre weathered track itself.