Autobus Prime wrote: HAZMAT9 wrote: On using the Christmas lights, can you wire in a dimmer switch as opposed to adding resistors to the string in order to dim the lights down? The "uprights" are connected to your Tycopak - use the variable DC terminals if you want dimming ability.
HAZMAT9 wrote: On using the Christmas lights, can you wire in a dimmer switch as opposed to adding resistors to the string in order to dim the lights down?
On using the Christmas lights, can you wire in a dimmer switch as opposed to adding resistors to the string in order to dim the lights down?
The "uprights" are connected to your Tycopak - use the variable DC terminals if you want dimming ability.
This is a good trick. As a bonus, lightbulbs last longer on DC than on AC so the reduced voltage benefit is multiplied. The "powerpack" control is often just a variable resistor. It is possible to build transistorized dimming circuits for low voltage but really not worth the effort unless you have many different loads coming on and off frequently.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
HAZMAT9 wrote:Great information, thanks! Twenty years ago I used a set of Christmas lights to light up my structures, never thought of grouping them and running them off a powerpack. A few years ago I purchased the bunch of wheatsone bulbs from MicroMark, sounds like I can use the same prinicipal in running them off a powerpack as well. Thanks Again!
Great information, thanks! Twenty years ago I used a set of Christmas lights to light up my structures, never thought of grouping them and running them off a powerpack. A few years ago I purchased the bunch of wheatsone bulbs from MicroMark, sounds like I can use the same prinicipal in running them off a powerpack as well. Thanks Again!
Exactly! Have fun!
Autobus Prime wrote: HAZMAT9 wrote: On using the Christmas lights, can you wire in a dimmer switch as opposed to adding resistors to the string in order to dim the lights down?HM9:I prefer not to use the string in its original form. I don't like having 120v available anywhere on the layout, and light strings tend to be wired with large numbers of bulbs in series, which makes it tricky to find a bad bulb (which is why you have that old string available for MR use anyway).Instead, I follow the same methods as TTT and wire small groups of bulbs in series, then supply all those small groups in parallel from a train set power pack. You can then use the power pack's speed control to vary the current supplied, which will vary the brightness (or vary the voltage, which amounts to the same thing, since bulbs are basically resistors).Supposing you have 3v bulbs and a 12v supply, and want each bulb to see 2.4v. Wire them in a sort of ladder. Each rung is a series of five bulbs, connected to one "upright" at each end. The "uprights" are connected to your Tycopak - use the variable DC terminals if you want dimming ability.
HM9:
I prefer not to use the string in its original form. I don't like having 120v available anywhere on the layout, and light strings tend to be wired with large numbers of bulbs in series, which makes it tricky to find a bad bulb (which is why you have that old string available for MR use anyway).
Instead, I follow the same methods as TTT and wire small groups of bulbs in series, then supply all those small groups in parallel from a train set power pack. You can then use the power pack's speed control to vary the current supplied, which will vary the brightness (or vary the voltage, which amounts to the same thing, since bulbs are basically resistors).
Supposing you have 3v bulbs and a 12v supply, and want each bulb to see 2.4v. Wire them in a sort of ladder. Each rung is a series of five bulbs, connected to one "upright" at each end. The "uprights" are connected to your Tycopak - use the variable DC terminals if you want dimming ability.
Keep the line voltage away from the layout IMO. The only 120V power should be at the control panels for powerpacks and for powering AC - DC adaptors.
Autobus Prime wrote:Indeed. ISTR reading somewhere that the life of a bulb is 100 times longer at 60% its rated voltage (or was that 50%...?)
Yes, whichever it is the life is greatly extended by dropping the supply down like that. Kudos to the fellow who first thoguth that one up. The other benefit as I see it is that the light from a fully powered bulb is often too glaring to look like realistic interior lighting as seen through a window.
BlueHillsCPR wrote:At %60 of full voltage I would think they would last a long long time.
At %60 of full voltage I would think they would last a long long time.
B:
Indeed. ISTR reading somewhere that the life of a bulb is 100 times longer at 60% its rated voltage (or was that 50%...?)
tomikawaTT wrote:I've been using those 150-bulb strings of icicle lights as a source for cheap lamps and sockets. The bulbs are rated 2.5V, but, when wired four in series across 6.3VAC (the center-tap output of a cheap filament transformer,) give a warm yellowish light typical of 1960s household lighting. Since the lamps are push-in type, the socket can be permanently mounted. If a lamp fails (which will be a while on 60% of rated voltage!) it is simple to pull it out and replace it with a like serviceable item.Chuck (modeling Cenral Japan in September, 1964)
Chuck (modeling Cenral Japan in September, 1964)
Good information Chuck! Those little lights are great anywhere you need lighting and can conceal the fixture. Best of all like you said, they are really cheap in January!
I've been using those 150-bulb strings of icicle lights as a source for cheap lamps and sockets. The bulbs are rated 2.5V, but, when wired four in series across 6.3VAC (the center-tap output of a cheap filament transformer,) give a warm yellowish light typical of 1960s household lighting. Since the lamps are push-in type, the socket can be permanently mounted. If a lamp fails (which will be a while on 60% of rated voltage!) it is simple to pull it out and replace it with a like serviceable item.
The best part? I bought them a couple of days AFTER Christmas, a couple of cases of them for about a penny a lamp. The filament transformer I have is a Radio Shack special, rated 3 amps on each of two circuits. I have a bunch of really cheap slide switches that will be built into a lighting control panel, so I won't have all the lights in town coming on and going off at the same time. My entire structure lighting investment for a double-garage-filler layout is about the same as what I paid for one industrial structure kit - on sale, not MSRP.
Autobus Prime wrote: econguy wrote: Probably been discussed before, but here goes. Does anyone have a link to an article or site on how to light a layout? I model in N, and am at the stage of building a town that I want to light.Along the same lines, what is the consensus if any on LED v. incandescent lights?Thanks to all who can assist. e:Go out and buy a string of clearanced miniature Christmas tree lights, or use that string that didn't work, or just use your oldest one, because you know it won't work next year, anyway. Cut it apart into individual socketed bulbs with 3" green insulated leads. Drill holes in the baseboard to friction-fit the sockets. Wire the bulbs up underneath and supply the right voltage.
econguy wrote: Probably been discussed before, but here goes. Does anyone have a link to an article or site on how to light a layout? I model in N, and am at the stage of building a town that I want to light.Along the same lines, what is the consensus if any on LED v. incandescent lights?Thanks to all who can assist.
Probably been discussed before, but here goes.
Does anyone have a link to an article or site on how to light a layout? I model in N, and am at the stage of building a town that I want to light.
Along the same lines, what is the consensus if any on LED v. incandescent lights?
Thanks to all who can assist.
e:
Go out and buy a string of clearanced miniature Christmas tree lights, or use that string that didn't work, or just use your oldest one, because you know it won't work next year, anyway. Cut it apart into individual socketed bulbs with 3" green insulated leads. Drill holes in the baseboard to friction-fit the sockets. Wire the bulbs up underneath and supply the right voltage.
You'll need to use clear lights because the colour doesn't come off those coloured bulbs. Don't ask me how I know! Also, mini Christmas lights come in a wide variety of voltages. Make sure you get ones with a voltage rating that matches whatever power source you are going to use for your lights.
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
This picture may help illustrate what some of the others have suggested. This is in HO, but the principle is the same in any gauge. This particular structure is a DPM. The floor was scanned from a floor provided with another kit and printed on regular computer paper. I googled for "store shelves" or something like that, and downloaded some images. I printed those on cardstock (heavy paper, greeting card thickness,) cut them out, and glued them on. I put the light bulb behind one of the stand-ups to block direct view.
The bulb and socket are from IHC, but there are a lot of options for those. I, too, prefer incandescent bulbs. The color is better, and LEDs are very directional, so they don't "fill" the space the way an incandescent will. Here's the result with the structure in place.
There is a styrene "floor" between the first and second stories of this building, so the top floor is not illuminated. This was a temporary mount, by the way, with the wire just running out under the side wall of the building. I've sinced drilled through the floor and mounted it permanently. I run my structure lighting on 10 volts. The bulbs range from 12 to 16 volt rating, so they aren't at full brightness, which I like better, and they will last a lot longer.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Some links I had.
Fiber Optics For Buildings?
Exterior Light Poles
Lighting Tips
In addition to what has been said. It is a good idea to block the light from some windows in a structure. Having all the windows lit up doesn't look realistic. Make sure you can't see the lamp itself through windows etc. Some window coverings help to add to the realisim. As mentioned painting the insides of structures is often a must. Buildings that glow don't look bery realistic.
Some modelers are beginning to use fiber optics for lighting using a variety of techniques. I intend to implement some fiber optics in the future. There are fiber optic strands available now that are "side lights" rather than end lights. Apparently they are great for modeling Neon signs or fluorescent tubes if needed.
EDIT: Side lights require a very bright and costly light source to illuminate them, making them less than perfect for MRR use.
Let us know how it works out for you.