Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Cutting Out Turnouts

804 views
5 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Guntersville, AL
  • 129 posts
Cutting Out Turnouts
Posted by CNE Runner on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:49 PM
Help!! I (foolishly) installed my Walthers/Shinohara turnouts without soldering jumper wires. After 3 years of operation, those little buggers are starting to give me fits. With approximately 19 turnouts, buying new ones is more than management will budget. I would like to remove each turnout and solder jumper wires before reinstalling them in situ. I tried a fine razor saw and that made a mess of the rails (oh, did I mention I soldered all stock rails? See what happens when you get an induction soldering system for your birthday?). I read about using a cut-off wheel made for steel and a Dremel tool, but have never tried this method. Any suggestions? Every month, at the full moon, I chant: "Never solder turnouts...never solder turnouts..."

 "Keeping my hand on the throttle...and my eyes on rail."

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 8:12 PM

Find a solder wick....and de-solder the turnouts....one by one...all...how many did you say? Big Smile [:D]

Seriously, a solder wick will be your bosom buddy after you use it on the first turnout.

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Delmar, NY
  • 671 posts
Posted by DeadheadGreg on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 8:51 PM
Could someone please correct me about jumper wires?  What i think they're for is to connect the polarity of the corresponding tracks...  ie:  the curved outside rail of the turnout gets wired to the rail past the frog on the same side if you're thinking of it like a piece of straight rail, and then the straight outside rail on the other side gets wired to its corresponding rail beyond the frog.
PHISH REUNION MARCH 6, 7, 8 2009 HAMPTON COLISEUM IN HAMPTON, VA AND I HAVE TICKETS!!!!!! YAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!! [quote user="jkroft"]As long as my ballast is DCC compatible I'm happy![/quote] Tryin' to make a woman that you move.... and I'm sharing in the Weekapaug Groove Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world....
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Tuesday, January 15, 2008 10:39 PM

Generally, if the joiners are doing a good job of it, the outer stock rails of turnouts don't need any feeding since they join rails that should already be powered.  It is only the two v'd rails at the frog, called the frog rails, that need power if the frog is insulated and if the turnout is not power routing.  In other words, the dead frog precludes the contininuance of power from the points rails that slide back and forth.  So, the frog rails may need their own power source, but often that comes via the next joiners that connect them to the next length of rail.  The only time those two rails, and what lies beyond them, doesn't need feeding is if the points permit power routing base on their alignment...and most turnouts these days do exactly that.

In any event, if I understand your question, yes, the left stock rail should be wired to the same bus side as the left rail on the diverging route if you look at the turnout from the points end.  Similarly, the right (diverging) stock rail should be wired to the same side of the bus pair as the right through frog rail.  Always left with left, and right with right as you face one direction pretending you are standing in the middle of the tracks.  You don't want contrary or conflicting power meeting the powered axles right after the frog when the powered axles still on the points rails are getting the opposite side of power.  Big BZZZZZT!  Keep the rails and wires to the same sides.

  • Member since
    November 2007
  • 1,089 posts
Posted by BlueHillsCPR on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 12:19 AM
 selector wrote:
Find a solder wick....and de-solder the turnouts....one by one...all...how many did you say? Big Smile [:D]

Seriously, a solder wick will be your bosom buddy after you use it on the first turnout.

 

I love my solder sucker! Thumbs Up [tup]

 

The dremel will only help you if you also have a flex shaft for it that will allow you to get close enough to be square with the rails when making cuts.  Still desoldering is probably best as long as you don't melt the ties too badly. My 2 cents [2c]

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Somewhere in North Texas
  • 1,080 posts
Posted by desertdog on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 2:57 PM

Before doing anything as drastic as removing the turnouts, I would take another approach, but first, I want to make sure I understand the problem.  Have the wing rails gone dead?  Is the frog wired so that it changes polarity with the position of the switch?

John Timm

 

 

 

 

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!