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Crossover wiring

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  • From: Colorful Colorado
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Posted by Texas Zepher on Saturday, January 12, 2008 2:39 PM
 KingConrail76 wrote:
I took the liberty of editing your drawing.
Thanks, I was going to do that for him but didn't have the time when I did my post....
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 12, 2008 12:16 PM

Mass Pandemonium has struck!!!!!

After studying everyones input, sitting and staring at my poor layout, scratching my watch and winding my head, I put the info to use. I still haven't fixed the crossover snag as I need another reverse loop module. BUT, I starting tearing track up, moving things, making reverse loops, etc, etc and one thing I made actually worked!! Yippee! Once I get the new module I will get the crossover working I am sure. My point is, thanks to the input I have received from everyone, my understanding of the wiring is on the up curve versus the hours of sobbing and kicking the dog. Will let you know.

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 11, 2008 6:58 PM

Hey,

Zepher I think you are right as in it is more to it than I know. King, your diagram shows what I have had a hunch that it will need 2 reverse loop modules. The diagram is awesome, thanks. I will get another module and try it out. Thanks again to all, will keep you posted.

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  • From: The Gap between Philly and Harrisburg, Pa
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Posted by KingConrail76 on Friday, January 11, 2008 5:46 PM

I took the liberty of editing your drawing.

Steve H.
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  • From: Colorful Colorado
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Posted by Texas Zepher on Friday, January 11, 2008 5:06 PM
 keydiverfla wrote:

Photobucket

If I am interpreting this diagram correctly there are still going to be problems.
1.  It looks like the section on the inside loop from the "gaps" on the far left, to the "gap to the left of crossover" is going to be dead.  This is unless there are more power terminals somewhere that aren't shown.
2.  There will still be a short when a locomotive crosses the "gap" immediately above the "power terminal".

There is an easy fix if you are only going to run one train at a time.  But to run two trains simultaniously will take a bit more work, or unless you get a second auto-reversing unit.  

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 11, 2008 4:32 PM

LOL

Thanks Johnny, will check it out

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Posted by Johnnny_reb on Friday, January 11, 2008 3:45 PM
Dang it I'm late again!Bow [bow] You guys are fast.

Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!

My Train Page   My Photobucket Page   My YouTube Channel

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 11, 2008 3:43 PM

Hey King,

Saw your edit. Thanks. Here's an updated sketch showing the module, gaps and pwer terminal. Maybe it will un muddy the waters. And yes, the module has a sensitivity selector set at mid range (for HO). Photobucket" border="0" />

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  • From: Central Georgia
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Posted by Johnnny_reb on Friday, January 11, 2008 3:39 PM

Basically for what I see you have a very short reversing section. If you extend your cross over between the two turnouts you can treat the track between the two as a true reversing section and wire accordingly. As your train passes through the reversing section you would switch the main-line reversing switch.

You basically have two ovals with a short section of track that they both share. I had the same problem on the layout that I plan to build, you can look at my plans to see how I plan to deal with just this same problem. With DCC you will use two ar-1's in place of the snap switches. Only one unit at each end.

http://devinville-rr.mysite.com/

Johnnny_reb

Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!

My Train Page   My Photobucket Page   My YouTube Channel

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Posted by KingConrail76 on Friday, January 11, 2008 3:15 PM
Another thing I just of, I use an AR-1 reversing module. It has a sensitivity adjustment. Maybe yours does???
Steve H.
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  • From: The Gap between Philly and Harrisburg, Pa
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Posted by KingConrail76 on Friday, January 11, 2008 3:09 PM

I edited my last post to include more...see if that addresses what may be happening, or double check the locations of your gaps, and double check that BOTH rails are gapped, and if using Atlas insulated joiners, make sure you really have a gap there.

Good luck.

Steve H.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 11, 2008 3:08 PM
I have another gap section I will try away from the crossover. That will make a total of 4 gaps. Will let you know, Thanks King
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 11, 2008 3:03 PM

Hey King,

Thanks for the input, good info for sure. I do have a reverse loop module. Everything goes fine until a loco hits one of the gapped sections, bottom right by the sketch and then the short begins. If I need to completely isolate an entire section I will as some have suggested. I will keep at it, and with everyones help be able to figure it out. Thanks

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  • From: The Gap between Philly and Harrisburg, Pa
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Posted by KingConrail76 on Friday, January 11, 2008 2:49 PM

 keydiverfla wrote:
Here's a quick sketch. I have 4 gapped track sections to work with. Layout" border="0" />

What you have is a Reverse Loop issue, not a crossover issue. To the left of your crossover, the inner loop becomes a reversing section when the crossover switches are thrown, creating a short circuit. You need to Gap/Insulate that loop from the rest of the layout, and then add either a "automatic reversing module" or a DPDT toggle switch wired to reverse the current in the loop when a train goes through the crossover. To do this, you should have gaps (both rails) between the switches that makeup the crossover, to the LEFT of the lower switch, and to the RIGHT of the upper switch (as oriented by drawing).

Edit: You actually have (2) reversing areas caused by the same crossover. The "loop" as mentioned above, and the actual crossover itself, even though a train could never turn around the point end of the switch, the electric current can (electric has no minimum radius Laugh [(-D]). If at somepoint only ONE of the two switches are thrown toward the other, I could see a short occuring between inner and outer rails through the points of the opposite switch. You may want to place a 4th Gap (both rails) some distance (atleast a train length) to the Right of your lower switch as well, with an "automatic reversing module" (such as an AR-1) to control that section. Since this is an Insurance measure, a DPDT toggle would not work(your not going to say to yourself "I'm going to short out my switches, I must first flip this switch...", you'll accidentially forget to throw BOTH switches, or a switch machine might malfunction).

Steve H.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 11, 2008 2:29 PM
Here's a quick sketch. I have 4 gapped track sections to work with. Layout" border="0" />
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 11, 2008 2:11 PM
A sketch or pic is being done. I am sure it is simple, just frustrating for guys like me lol. Thanks again
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Posted by jim22 on Thursday, January 10, 2008 9:35 PM

If you could post a quick schematic of the track it would help...

Jim 

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Posted by Texas Zepher on Thursday, January 10, 2008 7:07 PM

 keydiverfla wrote:
. What I seek is a little help in wiring/gaps in a crossover.
What brand of turnouts are being used in the crossover or do you really mean a crossing?   What sort of turnout motors are being used (if any) for the turnouts?

I have a DCC crossover,
Now I'm really confused what is a DCC crossover?  Is this some sort of electronic device you are talking about rather than track work?

My question is...is there a tried and true method for crossovers?
Yes, wiring a crossover between two tracks with hot frogs in the turnouts or a crossing of two tracks with hot frogs is going to be the same regardless of how the track is powered.

I researched the wiring for DCC webpage but it sorta kinda addresses my problem but not really. Any input is appreciated, and yes I did a search of the forums but all I got was a kagillion answers for DCC and nothing to do with crossovers.
That is because, I think, it has nothing to do with DCC.  Search for just wiring of crossovers or crossings.

Assuming a track crossover then:
1.  Are the two tracks being crossed between on the same power supply or are they different power blocks?
2.  Are the two tracks being crossed between loop around and connect to one another?  If so you might really have a reversing loop situation here.
3.  Assuming #2 is not true, only 4 gaps should suffice.  Gap both the rails between the turnouts.  Gap the frog rail on each of the other two tracks.   If the turnouts are power routing they should then provide power as needed through the points.

Edit- added the red highlighting.

  

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 10, 2008 4:37 PM
FWIW, the manufacturers web page was lame at best, ignored my problem and life was good for them.
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Crossover wiring
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 10, 2008 4:35 PM

Hi all,

I need a little help. I asked the manufacturer and got no response. What I seek is a little help in wiring/gaps in a crossover. I have a DCC crossover, a reverse loop module, and it has a short in a rail regardless of position I put the module, gaps, power terminal, etc. Some scenarios get it "close" with one one area on a gapped track that shorts. My question is...is there a tried and true method for crossovers? I researched the wiring for DCC webpage but it sorta kinda addresses my problem but not really. Any input is appreciated, and yes I did a search of the forums but all I got was a kagillion answers for DCC and nothing to do with crossovers. Thanks if you can help

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