Soldering and Conductivity

[AltoonaRailroader]

Just a quick question:

The name of the game on a DC setup is good continuity and power to your tracks. I've notices that some of the rail joiners on my layout aren't very tight on the rails and hell I even found a place on a short piece of flex track I installed that the "free" rail will slide back and forth in the rail joiners at each end? That CAN'T be good.  I was thinking, once I get my track down and I'm happy with where it's going to go permanently, should I solder most or all of my rail joints? On both sides or just the hot side? To me it would make sense to do both sides. Should I solder the rail joiners or solder a small piece of wire across the joints for better electrical flow. I have my theories but wanted input from the masses.

 

Thanks,

[tomikawaTT]

IMHO, backed by close to six decades of experience, rail joiners should never be depended on for electrical conductivity.  They have been the source of altogether too many 'mystery' open circuits.

There are three schools of thought on what should be done:

1. Solder a feeder wire to every single length of rail.  While this is popular in the DCC fraternity, I define it as gross overkill.
2. Solder all non-insulated rail joiners to both rails.  This will work if there is little or no possibility of rail creep due to temperature/humidity changes in the railroad space.
3. Solder wire jumpers around all non-insulated rail joints, but leave the rails free to expand and contract.  Snce rail movement IS an issue in my non-climate-controlled garage, this is my preferred method.

For track which is already anchored in place, 2 is the easiest.  Use a tiny bit of non-acid flux and 60-40 or 63-37 rosin-core solder to insure a good joint.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - analog DC, MZL system)