All,
Getting back into things after 20 years. Going HO, DCC in a 9x14 around-the-room type layout with a duckunder. Have 10 gauge for the bus, 20 gauge for the feeders. Using code 100 Atlas flextrack, and soldering every connector. Layout is a basic oval type, all on one plane (no hidden staging, helixes, etc) with spurs, a couple of small industrial areas, and a storage yard.
Question is do I need insulated sections and if so, how many? To insulate, does everyone just use the plastic rail joiners? Obviously need to solder feeders to each insulated section, just wondering how big each should be and if plastic is way to go.
Thanks in advance.
First, and seriously, do not solder every connector....not even close! You'll regret it bitterly if you do.
Secondly, and more to the point, if you really want to break it into isolated sections for short control, I would not stand in your way. In fact, it is a good idea generally. For the size of layout you are talking about, two at least, and perhaps as many as four. The storage yard would be a good bet, but not strictly necessary. Any yard or yard-like place where two or more tracks are side-by-side and used to store engines would be another good bet. Otherwise, just cut your oval in half and use some form of short protection so that the whole layout doesn't black out when you get a short...which'll happen about once a session if you are like me.
If you follow that, and agree to an extent, you might as well forget the insulating joiners. Where rail alignment can be an issue, such as on a curve, more-so a tight one, definitely solder the sections of rail. Otherwise, why not just leave a 1/32-1/16" gap? It does exactly the same thing, saves you a few pennies, and doesn't look goofy from 2' away. Use an adhesive to keep the four rails at each gap aligned, or use a tiny track nail in a tiny hole drilled in the last tie before the gap that still has its clips (spike heads) functionally holding the rails.
Go simple.
Thanks for the reply!
How much should I solder then? I assume you say not to do too much so it can "expand/contract"? I was planning to use joiners between flex track and solder.
I will take your advice on the gaps.
If you solder the joiners, they become like the rails...rigid. No expanding and contracting accommodation. They don't become part of the solution as they do when they are allowed to slide on the rails. What I am saying is to rigidify on the curves where you want the rigidity and alignment, but let the tangents slide back and forth in the normally fastened joiners...which is their intent partially. This way expansion and contraction is managed and the curves are managed.
If you do place some gaps, they take the place of the non-soldered joiners in terms of the expansion problem. Beside isolating blocks of track for power management and short management, the gaps are part of your expansion/contraction solution. Nickel silver track expands about 1/4" over 100' with a rise of a full 30 deg...not a great deal. However, the bench work can expand and contract as much or more with changes in humidity. When your benchwork wood grain expands along an axis with a rise in humidity, and your rails are running close to parallel, they'll pull apart as much. Or, when you find the benchwork material drying out, those gaps will come in handy, but if too narrow they'll close right up and force the rails to buckle sideways into an S-curve...if things go well. So, some full, joinerless, gaps are good for those problems. Where you don't want tracks moving in any direction, at least solder them.
In some ways it's a crap shoot. Your layout will let you know soon enough where you got it wrong, and the fix is usually intuitive enough.
Good luck.
Where your layout is located is a big factor in how much you need to worry about expansion and contraction. Example, if your layout is in a climate controlled basement, like mine, where temp is always between 65 and 70 degrees, you have fewer problems than if your layout is in an uninsulated garage where the temp may range 40 - 100 degrees depending upon the part of the world you live in.
I'd wire a layout your size into at least two separate circuits (wiring districts) with the intent of putting a power booster in each so that a detrailment on one side of the room does not knock out power on the other side. This also helps when tracking down shorts and other insidious problems that popup from time to time in the best of layouts. I use the plastic rail joiners to insulate my track and use a saw to cut the rail and insert a piece of styrene when the track is already in place. Like others have said, make sure that your rail is secure to the ties before you cut the rail or you will have adventures. Using CA, epoxy or Plibond are all recommended glues for this purpose.
IF you have already purchased the #10 go ahead and use it, but for that sized layout, #14 or even #16 will do just fine. (Some modelers are finantical about using big wire.)
Finally, I envy you in your choice of Code 100. I wish I had not listened to the web experts when I started two years ago, and purchased Code 100 instead. It looks great when ballasted and weathered and it is so much more reliable and durable than code 83.
OH, I forgot to mention, I keep my rail sections about 3 - 9 feet long with joints soldered as necessary into those sized sections. I run a feeder to each soldered section and connect them to to the bus, which I located at the FRONT of my layout in a wiring chute build by placing 2 1X2 on edge and fastening the facia to the 1x2's. Keeps all my connections out in front in the isle where it is easier to maintain.
Good luck and post a picture or two of your work!
Just my 2 cents, never worth much more!
Joe Daddy