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Ideas on removeable coal loads

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aav
  • Member since
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  • From: Cincinnati,OH
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Ideas on removeable coal loads
Posted by aav on Friday, January 4, 2008 6:54 PM
 i'm working in HO scale and i'm looking for suggestions on making dependable removeable coal loads for various sizes and makes of hoppers (athearn,walthers,bowser,etc.) over the years i've read articles and tried different technuiqes but wasn't really satisfied with the results. i also remember hearing something about using a small metal strip under a thin layer of coal so a magnet could be used to remove the load without handling the car. has anyone else heard about that method? at last count i have 78 of them to make, so, any input would greatly be appreciated. thanks.
aav
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Posted by arkansasrailfan on Friday, January 4, 2008 7:02 PM
You can buy magnets or you can buy 78 car weights(Athrean blue box kind), cut them to fit, then get an electro-magnet so you can pick them up. Or you can use model car and have a dump system and then poor the coal back through a funnel for cars going outbound.
-Michael It's baaaacccckkkk!!!!!! www.youtube.com/user/wyomingrailfan
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Posted by Bill54 on Friday, January 4, 2008 7:24 PM

A large amount of my coal cars are from Accurail.  They make a coal load for various cars that they manufacur.  Their coal load kit comes with two metal balls that attach to the load and also sell a magnet that you use to lift the load off the car.

You can use any metal object in conjunction with a magnet and do the same thing.  Just glue the metal to the underside of the load and use the magnet to lift it off. 

Magnets are cheap and metal can be obtained from maney sources.  I plan to use scrap metal from now on in place of the metal balls that Accurail sells.

Bill

As my Mom always says...Where there's a will there's a way!
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Posted by loathar on Friday, January 4, 2008 8:19 PM

I use those blocks of florist foam. The fine kind you stick artificial plants in. They cut and shape real EZ with sand paper. You can just paint them the color you want or cover them with coal or ore. (the above coal load was one of the first I did. Doesn't look too good) You can add BB's underneath for weight if you need to.

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Posted by cowman on Saturday, January 5, 2008 8:00 AM

I've seen an article on using the blue/pink foam cut into blocks that fit into the car, shape the tops as desired (one or two mound loads).  Put plastic food wrap in the car and insert the load with the food wrap hanging out the sides.  Paint the load black (for coal) then sprinkle on some coal.  When dry remove from the car and remove the plastic wrap. 

To have it easily removeable you can sandwich the foam with a washer or small chunk of metal in between the layers, close to the top of the block, carve a chunk out and insert the metal, whatever works for you.  A Magnetic pick up tool from an auto parts store should work fine to remove the load.  For additional weight you can attach nuts, bolts, metal of some sort to the bottom of the foam block to get desired amount of weight low in the car.

Have fun,

aav
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Cincinnati,OH
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Posted by aav on Saturday, January 5, 2008 1:32 PM
    Thanks guys for the suggestions. these sound like some good methods that i havn't tried yet so i'll definately be trying them out. thanks again.
aav
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Posted by B&Le on Saturday, January 5, 2008 8:47 PM
Do you think I could use some of that florists foam and then glue some coal ballast on it. That sounds like a good idea to me.
Alex
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Posted by cowman on Saturday, January 5, 2008 9:19 PM

Floral foam would probably work, but the article I saw said use paint to act as glue, then thin spots don't show up as readily.  Could use glue if you needed to add some more later.  Probably floral foam would soak up more glue or paint as it is more pourous than the extruded pink or blue foam.

Good luck,

aav
  • Member since
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  • From: Cincinnati,OH
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Posted by aav on Saturday, January 5, 2008 9:26 PM
      Cowman,  What was the reasoning for painting and sprinkling the load inside the car? Will the foam expand as the paint dries?
aav
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  • From: Central Vermont
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Posted by cowman on Saturday, January 5, 2008 9:53 PM
I think the reason for painting it while still in the car is that most loads, unless close to point or origin, have settled down into the car.  Having the plastic wrap inside and draped over the car, it keeps the load from being larger than the car yet fills it completely and protects the car from the paint.  Don't recall any specific reason given, that's just my take on what I remember.
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Posted by locoi1sa on Sunday, January 6, 2008 7:09 AM
   I made my gravel loads with a piece of styrene cut to size and paint a glued stone just like balasting the track.  I would think the metal weight would make the car top heavy.

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

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Posted by bogp40 on Sunday, January 6, 2008 9:48 AM

 locoi1sa wrote:
   I made my gravel loads with a piece of styrene cut to size and paint a glued stone just like balasting the track.  I would think the metal weight would make the car top heavy.

I use hydocal based loads from Motrak Models. These are much heavier than a steel weight and foam shaped load. I feel that the weighted hoppers, Bowsers, P2Ks, MDCs, and Accurails track very well and experience no wobble. Other club members have pulled up to 100 loaded hopper trains with no problems (tracking , derailments or stringlining).

I have noted that of all the cars, Athearns need some work at the trucks. Although the detail isn't the greatest and somewhat generic, they can be made very reliable. It seems that many come w/ a truck 2/56 screw that is much too long. The screw pressure is supposed to hold the frame and the truck. Setting the frame w/ some dabs of glue, shortening the screw and proper adjustment of the truck make for a good running car. Of coarse all should have metal wheels and Kadees.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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Posted by loathar on Sunday, January 6, 2008 11:17 AM

 BLe wrote:
Do you think I could use some of that florists foam and then glue some coal ballast on it. That sounds like a good idea to me.

Florist foam doesn't expand. I paint it first to give a base color. Then just coat it with un-thinned white glue and sprinkle your ballast/coal/ore on top. I let that dry and then spray it with scenic cement to seal it.

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Posted by wedudler on Sunday, January 6, 2008 1:18 PM

The steel plate ist the weight for the cars. I replace there steel with lead or brass.

Nearly all my hoppers have removable loads. These cullet too.

 

Wolfgang 

 

Pueblo & Salt Lake RR

Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de          my videos        my blog

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Posted by loathar on Sunday, January 6, 2008 3:34 PM
 wedudler wrote:

[img]http://www.westportterminal.de/wayofhm/07-04-20_IMG_0835_1200.jpg[img]

The steel plate ist the weight for the cars. I replace there steel with lead or brass.

Nearly all my hoppers have removable loads. These cullet too.

 [img]http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/703/P7253259_1200.jpg[img]

Wolfgang 

 

Do you have any problems with your cars being top heavy doing it that way? I like the magnet idea.Thumbs Up [tup]

aav
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Cincinnati,OH
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Posted by aav on Sunday, January 6, 2008 9:59 PM

        wedudler,

             did you make your loads or did you alter commercial loads?

             and if i'm seeing your picture correctly loads can be removed by magnet without handling the car.     this is good.....

              thanks.

            

aav
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Germany
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Posted by wedudler on Monday, January 7, 2008 1:42 PM

I make my load from a sheet wood and use e.g. Walthers coal load. I've also made my own, crashing anthrazit as well I used an old meat mincer to crash/mill glass cullet into H0 cullet.

I use only about a third from the steel weight. So my load will not be heavy.

Wolfgang 

Pueblo & Salt Lake RR

Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de          my videos        my blog

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