So ive been raping the search function this morning because I dont want to keep making new threads here, haha, but I haven't really been able to find the answer to my question.
I have a 4x8 sheet of plywood that I'm re-using from a toy/layout table that I had when I was a kid. Problem is that it has staples in the top from when I stapled that cheap grass mat stuff onto it, along with stapling some black posterboard roads.
To deal with this problem, I was just going to put a piece of foam board over it to serve as the scenery base. Are these staples going to pose any sort of problem? I figured that if I just used liquid nails to secure the foam, that pressing down on the foam would kind of make the staples indent the foam so that it becomes flush with the plywood. Do you think this would be ok? I mean, the staples aren't sticking up in the air at all, they're just there on the top. And what size do you think would be best, 1 inch or 2 inches? And with this staple problem, do you think I should buy a whole 4x8 sheet or buy smaller sections to put together?
So thats the first issue, and the 2nd is whether using Liquid Nails is the best way to secure the foam, or is there a cheaper product? I'm going to be using foam to build up the base for an elevated portion of the track thats going to be 4 inches high (for a mine thats going to be built into a mountain that the lower level train runs through) and so I'm going to need so secure those as well.
However, I don't have a wire cutter nor plan on buying one right now, so I had wanted to still do the cardboard strip hardshell scenery method. Is there a special adhesive needed to secure the coardboard strips to the foam?
Sorry for playing 20 questions. I just never really realized how much there is into building even a teeeeny tiny 4x8 layout, haha. When I was a kid back in elementary school 10 years ago, I thought it was just: dream up plan, buy stuff, run trains. haha.
The only issue I can think of with the staples would come in cutting...hitting staples does not do good things to saw blades. You may hit one when drilling for wires and such, but that should not adversly effect a drill bit.
I've seen mixed reviews on the liquid nails for bodning the foam. Most of the negative concerns there not being enough oxygen between the foam and plywood to cure the adhesive. I know there are adhesives made for surface bonding foam...one I think is called something like PL300. When it comes time to bond my foam to my door, I'm planning on an alternative I ran across...ceramic tile adhesive, spread with a notched trowel. The resulting ridges in the adhesive trap enough air between the foam and plywood for curing. I've come across a few rave reviews for this technique, no negative ones, and the process makes sense <shrug>
Reality...an interesting concept with no successful applications, that should always be accompanied by a "Do not try this at home" warning.
Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove...But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.
"Oooh...ahhhh...that's how this all starts...but then there's running...and screaming..."
Get a screw driver and pair of pliers and pull the staples. (how hard can that be...) You never know if they will interfere with future plans.
As mentioned, make sure you get the Liquid nails "For Projects" or "For Foam" The For Foam takes a LOT longer to dry. Both are foam safe. Those long, retractable razor knifes work great for cutting foam when they are sharp. You can get a 3 pack of them for a few $$$. Make sure you peal the protective cellophane of the foam before you start laying track. (if it has it) Paint, plaster and glue doesn't like to stick to it.
A true friend will not bail you out of jail...he will be sitting next to you saying "that was friggin awesome dude!" Tim...Modeling the NYC...is there any other?
Hi .I use PL300 for foam,Track ,roadbed..everything!If you run into joints in the foam,topside where you'll be laying track, I use the fiberglass drywall tape(the mesh kind)and mud it over. No problems!
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
wow, great thanks a lot guys. Now I know what I'm looking for when i make my errands tomarrow.
I have another question though: How easy is the foam snapped or broken? I want to use it to build up the base for an elevated part of the layout, so can i just like.... score the foam a little and then snap it off? Or do I actually have to cut it?
And what would be the best way to use the Liquid Nails for Projects? Just squirt it out, trying to cover as much area? Or should I take a brush and brush it over after I squirt it out to get maximum coverage?
Assuming you are reffereing to the blue or pink foam it depends on the grain of the foam. If you are cutting it lengthwise then a score and snap will work for 1". 2" foam will require about a 1" deep cut. If cutting across the width (against the grain) then you will need to cut deeper before snapping. This only works for straightlines or long gentle curves. Tight curves require cutting almost completely thru it.
I'd suggest spreading the liquid nails (or whatever caulk you use) out with a peice of stiff cardboard/plastic/scraper. If you leave it as a bead it will be a bit more difficult to sandwich the layers tightly. This will also depend on the caulk temperature. The colder it is the "stiffer" it will be. The warmer (NOT HOTTER!) the easier it is to work with. Be good if you experimented a bit.
Personally, I use yellow wood glue for glueing foam to wood, and foam to foam, works good, but takes about 24 hours to fully cure.
For the LN-for projects, squeeze it on and spread with a notched trowel (like for tile or flooring adhesive-3/16 to 1/4 inch notches) Probably won't brush too easily.
As for cutting, I use lots of differant things, but what I like best is to use my electric Jig saw on a slow setting to cut larger pieces, and for rough shaping after glued down, a hand saw that I have that can hold either a hack saw blade or a sawzall blade (looks like a knife handle attached to a sawzall blade-hacksaw blade can be as short as half or up to almost full length-slides up in to handle<made by Stanley>). For finishing I use a course file and 100 grit sand paper for final shaping.
To get a good "snap", you need to score BOTH sides, and it only works on straight "snaps". You will probly still get some unevenness in the middle of the piece where you snap it.
ARTHILL wrote:All good advice, but, I like Hot glue for bonding (fast dry) and a steak knife will our perform a hot wire for carving mountains and valleys
What is your trick for hot gluing the foam.???..even on the lowest setting i find it sometimes melts the foam and makes a weak bond...
Hey guys, I went to Lowes today to pick up some Liquid Nails (cheapest) and a rasp. The 2" 4x8 section of blue foam was 30 bucks basically, so i held off because theres a Curtis Lumber a minute from my house. While Curtis was 2 dollars more, it was worth it because of the short distance to my house. The twine that I tied it to the roof of my Jeep with didn't do its job, and the piece actually fell off onto the street and broke into 3 sections (I knew it would happen! but my girlfriend wouldn't listen.... lol). Anyway, it was kind of good because no big chunks came off and it was all able to fit into my trunk then. Got it home, and set it up on the plywood.
I ended up using a screwdriver and pliers to remove all of the staples that were on it. I put all 3 pieces together on the plywood to get alignments right, and then took 2 of the pieces off, leaving one end piece. Used a pencil to outline the proper alignment on the plywood, and then took it off and began using the Liquid Nails for Projects (well... my girlfriend did. haha). We ended up running out at the end when caulking for the 3rd and last section. It wasn't a big deal though, it was just a little area we weren't able to fully cover. Maybe I went overboard with the caulk? Who knows. She put a bead around the edge probably a half inch away from the edge of the plywood, and this was fine as nothing bled through to the outside.
So now its curing, with about 14 years of Model Railroader (along with various other Heavy Things *hehe... if any of you listen to Phish, thats the name of a good song. you should download it! lol*) holding the foam down in place, because the plywood wasn't perfectly level and flat, so there were areas where the foam was a little elevated, but was fine when you pushed it down flush to the plywood.
Next step is to figure out my final track plan so that i can figure out the scenery layout, so i can go buy a 1/2" 2x8 section or 1" 2x8 section so that I can build up the elevated level for the coal mine and to form the basic topography of the tunnels.
So thats that!