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Flext Track and roadbed q

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  • Member since
    June 2001
  • From: Holly, MI
  • 1,269 posts
Posted by ClinchValleySD40 on Wednesday, January 21, 2004 8:42 PM
I solder two pieces of flex together before bending it around a curve. Two pieces give me about a ninety degree curve. You'll need to snip off a bit on the inside of the curve on both ends. Works great, simple and keeps out the kinks. If I need more than 90, I solder together more AFTER I lay them around the curve. Do not try to solder more than two pieces together before bending. That is very difficult to do.
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
  • 3,154 posts
Posted by nfmisso on Wednesday, January 21, 2004 8:06 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by platypus

I had used cork on my old layout and deciding to try soemthing new I bought this black stuff made by woodland scenics but its really really difficult to use (make flat) on my 22" radius curves. Is there are better way of going about this?

Did you slice it down the middle into two seperate pieces? I had no trouble using it on some 18" radius sections. I used to used cork, and will not go back to it.
QUOTE:
There are several differing opinions about curving flex track whether or not to rail join and solder the flex tracks before they are curved and then bend it or just laying it snipping it then another peice to complete the turn...which should I do????

Experiment, see which works best for you.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: St Louis
  • 516 posts
Posted by mls1621 on Wednesday, January 21, 2004 5:22 PM
I had purchased the Woodland Scenics road bed, but went with cork after experimenting with it. I had also had previous experience with cork and decided that I'd stay with what I knew.

I can't profess to know the official method for soldering flex track, but I'll be happy to pass on what has worked for me.

I model in N scale, but the procedures should work the same for any scale.

I pin the track in place around the curve, loose rail to the inside of the curve. Using an cutting guide, I cut the longer rail to the length of the other. I then trim the tabs attaching rail from one tie of the pinned track and one tie of the next piece of track and install rail joiners. I do not pin the next pice in place till I've soldered the rail joiners. This prevents kinking at the rail joiners.

With the soldered joints cool, I then continue the curve, pinning the track in place as I go.

Others may suggest removing ties from each piece of track, I've done it in the past, but removing the tabs that attach one tie to the rails maintains the tie spacing and eliminates the need to slide ties under the joint after soldering.

I used this method on my current layout and the curves are smooth and constant.

Hope this helps.
Mike St Louis N Scale UP in the 60's Turbines are so cool
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Flext Track and roadbed q
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 21, 2004 3:33 PM
I had used cork on my old layout and deciding to try soemthing new I bought this black stuff made by woodland scenics but its really really difficult to use (make flat) on my 22" radius curves. Is there are better way of going about this?

AND

There are several differing opinions about curving flex track whether or not to rail join and solder the flex tracks before they are curved and then bend it or just laying it snipping it then another peice to complete the turn...which should I do????

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