Laying spur tracks off main

[hewitt]

I found that just using a smaller rail size made a big enough difference for me

however I am using code 100 and code 75 track

if you use code 83 the difference will not be as much

 

trevor

[E-L man tom]

Just another for-what-its-worth idea. I have been using automotive gasket cork for my "main" on my switching layout. This stuff is about 1/16th of an inch and can be stacked to a desired thickness or used at a single thickness; it is stacked on my main, as it is a branch line. Anything thinner than that you can simply use card stock. All these materials should get you that gradual "ramp" down to grade. Start this decline right after the turnout. Hope this helps. 

[bogp40]

Jarrell,

On a siding this short, you could be placing cars on the ramp down.  The transition needs to start after the turnout, for sure, and even dropping the thickness of the cork in 18", barely half of that siding 6-9" will be on the flat. I don't know your actual use and placement for the industry, just wouldn't want you to have any uncoupling or derailment troubles just for the effct to lower the grade. Other options are as mentioned to use the thin N cork and also transition to lighter rail code 70 as the prototype does.

[nbrodar]

I use cardboard, and lay the track directly on the cardboard.  Single thickness corrugated cardboard is about 1/8" and double thickness is about 1/4".  I can put down larger sheets and mount the buildings at the same "level" as the spur.   This is very helpful when the spur runs into the building.

The best part is, it's free.

Nick

[nucat78]

You can also glue down your HO cork and then sand or shave it into a grade. 

People with spurs on inclines have used a few different tricks to keep cars from rolling - one person simply sticks a straight pin into the roadbed behind the cars.  Another uses a small brush with the bristles pointed up that he trims to look like high weeds - he trims them so the cars can be pushed over the bristles but keeps enough so they can't roll on their own over the bristles.  And another person did a little pin thing that pops up from the roadbed and is activated by a lever on the fascia like a manual switch control.

If you're into superdetailing, you can fabricate little working handbrakes on your cars. 

[jacon12]

Thanks for the suggestions fellas.  I do have one section of N scale cork roadbed so I'll give that a try.

I appreciate it!

JaRRell

[mls1621]

Jarrell, 

Michaels has some cork sheet that's the same thickness as N scale cork roadbed, I used it for my hidden staging.  I don't remember the exact dimensions of the sheets, but it was close to 36" X 12".  You could get a few siding bases out of a single sheet.

The difference in height wouldn't be as severe as going down to grade and may eliminate your problem while giving you the effect you want.

If you don't have a Michaels near you, I'm sure any crafts store would have something similar.

[GraniteRailroader]

Use a gradual grade to get down to "ground level" from your roadbed. Another option would be to buy 1 piece of N scale cork, and put the track on that. It'll lower the height by about 50% compared to the HO roadbed, and you won't need as much of a transition.

 

[jacon12]

When laying a short... say...18 inch spur to an industry off the mainline, do you let the spur drop to ground level?  I think it's a pretty good drop (HO scale) in that short a distance and I'm going to have trouble either with cars rolling back when uncoupled, or uncoupling themselves on the inevitable 'hump' created in getting the track down to level grade.  How do you handle this situation?

As far as looks go, I think it looks best when the spur is ground level but as far as operations go it will/may be a problem.

JaRRell