wjstix wrote:Ya unlike most diesels where the whole body (walkways and all) come out, with Atlas the walkways and steps etc. are part of the metal frame, the body itself pops off. Best bet is a "drop in" decoder to replace the existing light board, takes up the same space as the lightboard did. You can also get a drop-in Soundtraxx sound decoder that will fit there too, put a 1/2" speaker towards the end of the long hood and you're in business.
The walkways/ pilot and steps molded in plastic only drop onto the frame (a very good fit), not part of the diecast frame
These early Atlas/Kato yellow box are the ones that modelers have complained about the weak pilots. With the couplers body/pilot mounted you can notice some extreme flexing of the pilot when pulling a heavy load. The RS1/3s, seem to be the worst but also evident with RS11, RSD12 and minor with the GP7s. I have tried to reinforce the pilot, however w/o almost filling the open steps and interfering with frame it just didn't prove successful or worth the effort.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Guy,
Looking at the diagram on the Atlas website, to remove the shell you need to squeeze the bottom of the hood by the walkway at the front and read of the shell. Do it gently and slowly wiggle the shell up. As sais, you will need to pop the handrails out of the cab. You should be able to see the tabs when you look at the loco upside down. If you have a small screwdriver you may be able to pry the tabs loose if you're having a tough time.
Based on the diagram, a NCE DA-SR will be a drop in replacement for the factory light board. The daigram shows bulbs and not leds. Use a 1.5v battery to test the bulbs. If they light, then you'll need to use a resistor to avoid popping the bulbs. If they don't light then you can simply connect them to the decoder. If you need resistors the NCE decoder manual that comes with the DA-SR will provide recommended values for the resistors. Decoder install time should be around 15-30 minutes (or less) using the drop in replacement decoder.
Hope that helps.
Guy Papillon wrote: Is there an easy way to put a DCC decoder in the Atlas Classic RS-3? I don't even know how to separate the body from the mainframe/motor assembly. Anyone can help?
Is there an easy way to put a DCC decoder in the Atlas Classic RS-3? I don't even know how to separate the body from the mainframe/motor assembly.
Anyone can help?
Now is this the flat yellow boxed Atlas?
If so, these are the Atlas/Kato locos. The hood is held to the walkways w/ small catches. Release the handrails from the cab, squeeze and sometimes coax the hood and you will see the separation. just work until free. The walkway and pilot platforms will lift off the frame.
On this particular loco (Kato) you remove the factory board. use care with the bronze motor leads. I used Digitrax K150s, but there are newer versions out. One recommendation, once a decoder is installed solder the motor leads. The Digitrax didn't require this, but I had contact problems until a solid soldered connection was made. Your lighting will depend on the requirement and what decoder you pick. LEDs would be best and last. Just don't use a blinding bright white as these RSs had and amber glow in the incandecsent.
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's