bad track replacement

[Anonymous]

Does anyone have any tricks on replacing a bad section of track? (Code 100) It just happens to be right in the middle of my switching yard and I really don't want to tear up a major portion just to replace a section or 2 Last time I tried i bent up the joiners so bad I ended up pulling up hundreds of nails it seemed like and it was a nightmare

[Anonymous]

Do you have a razor saw? If so, cut across the track at the joint(s). You could also use a Dremel tool with a cutoff disk. I'd recommend getting the reinforced disks as they're not as likely to shatter as the regular disks. I suppose a decent cut might be made with rail-nippers, either Xuron or Mascot sells them. I prefer the Mascot as they're heavier than the Xuron, but Xuron works fine on N-scale track.

If you're using flex track, then you should be able to work the piece back into the layout with a little patience.

[RhB_HJ]

Cut where required (on both ends) with a Dremel Cut-Off disc. Wear safety glasses!! Remove two ties from remaining track (both sides), cut new piece of track with 1/8" extra, slip joiners on one end of new piece.
Slip joiners on to existing track (one end only), take new piece and slide on to existing piece, make sure rail is butted against existing track. Carefully trim other end of new trck to fit, drop in to place and slide joiners from existing piece of track to connect, solder joiners. Put ties under joiner section after trimming the "hardware" off the top.

DONE!

[Anonymous]

I hate rail joiners (N Scaler using Flex track, which doesn't have the little "cutouts" for joiners.)

All of the advice is great, but it is really easy to flux then solder your new piece in perfect line with the old rails by taking your time.

I used to dred changing bad track, untill I started soldering. It even makes it easy to build an area knowing I will have to come back to add a turnout for a spur later. Can't do that very easily with rail joiners.

[mls1621]

I'm in N scale, but the problems and practices cross all scales.

This works for me. I just finished installing a pair of turnouts to switch from one track to the next. The track had been glued and ballsted in place.

I pre-assembled the turnouts first, then over layed them on the existing track to mark the cuts. After cutting the track, I sprayed water on the ballast to loosen it, lifted out the existing track. Using a small flexable putty knife, I cleaned up the remaining ballast.

By removing the rail attachments from two ties on each end, it's possible to slide rail joiners on far enough to allow placement of the new track.

Fit the new track and carefully slide the joiners in place, solder joints and then reballast.

I prefer this method to removing ties, because it maintains proper spacing and I just think it looks better, just my opinion.

Everyone posting before me has good ideas, I'm just adding what's worked for me in the past for comparison.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mdemt

I hate rail joiners (N Scaler using Flex track, which doesn't have the little "cutouts" for joiners.)

HO flex doesn't have "cutouts" for joiners either. You just snip off two ties, join the rails, and then trim the ties so they fit back under the joint. There's no point in having cutouts when, for the most part, no one is going to use the flex in exactly the 36" length in a straight line.