Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
Here's what a search of Walthers website came up with:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=Track&scale=H&manu=&item=&keywords=transition&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search
Thanks for the tips fella's and btw I live one hour from the Sierra railroad that Guy mentioned.
NevinW wrote:What I do is use the code 83 railjoiner and mash 1/2 of it flat with a ailr of pliers. I then solder the code 70 rail onto the flattened part of the railjoiner. The unflattened portion fits onto the code 83 rail in the usual fashion. The code 70 rail and the code 83 end up at exactly the right height. - Nevin
I use this method as well but find that it helps to grind down the bottom of the code 70 rail just a bit to get a perfect transition.
I have also sucessfully left the joiners off completely and butt soldered the rails against each other after shimming the code 70 ties to match up the top of the railheads. I then spike both sections of track around the joint to make sure it doesn't move out of alignment horizontally. Looks much better and has been very reliable operationally. Obviously I don't rely on this joint to conduct power to other track sections beyond the joint.
BTW: I did see some transition rail bolt plates joining differing rail sizes on the Sierra Railroad (California) last spring in front of the Jamestown station. So there is a prototype for these joiners.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
tomikawaTT wrote: desertdog wrote: NevinW wrote:What I do is use the code 83 railjoiner and mash 1/2 of it flat with a ailr of pliers. I then solder the code 70 rail onto the flattened part of the railjoiner. The unflattened portion fits onto the code 83 rail in the usual fashion. The code 70 rail and the code 83 end up at exactly the right height. - NevinNevin, I would only add that I flatten the code 83 joiner in a small vise to make sure it is as flat as I can make it. For whatever reason I don't seem to get it quite flat enough with a pliers.John TimmIsn't that why they invented Vise-grips? Use them for code 83 - code 70 joiner mod, and for lots of other things having to do with shaping steel stud material into railroad-useful forms.Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
desertdog wrote: NevinW wrote:What I do is use the code 83 railjoiner and mash 1/2 of it flat with a ailr of pliers. I then solder the code 70 rail onto the flattened part of the railjoiner. The unflattened portion fits onto the code 83 rail in the usual fashion. The code 70 rail and the code 83 end up at exactly the right height. - NevinNevin, I would only add that I flatten the code 83 joiner in a small vise to make sure it is as flat as I can make it. For whatever reason I don't seem to get it quite flat enough with a pliers.John Timm
Nevin,
I would only add that I flatten the code 83 joiner in a small vise to make sure it is as flat as I can make it. For whatever reason I don't seem to get it quite flat enough with a pliers.
John Timm
Isn't that why they invented Vise-grips? Use them for code 83 - code 70 joiner mod, and for lots of other things having to do with shaping steel stud material into railroad-useful forms.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
guess its time to update the old adage.....All we need is duct tape and wd-40 and vise-grips. If it moves and it shouldn't you tape it, if it doesn't move and it should you spray it, if it don't fit you squeeze the crap out of it until it does.....
tstage wrote: BP,I believe Atlas makes specific transition rail joiners for going from Code 83 to 70.Tom
BP,
I believe Atlas makes specific transition rail joiners for going from Code 83 to 70.
Tom
Actually, that is Micro Engineering, IIRC the joiners you are thinking of are 100 to 83. Atlas doesn't even sell code 70 track.
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.