all you experts...looking for advice
I'm a newcomer...downright novice at this hobby but willing to learn and can work with my hands. Building...constructing or remodeling an HO set up...call it what you will. In the throes of building a new HO layout. What I have to date is not satisfactory and in need of major "renovation" Not even finished but what is up and running is less than satisfactory primarily due to the the switches ...currently using Atlas...at least 15 yrs old from a prior set up and seriously contemplating starting anew. What kind of switches should I be looking at? Using Code 100 Flex track...Atlas brand but will pitch it if there is a consenus on a better product
As a warning...to those brave enough to respond...I may be back for more advice! Consider yourselves warned.
Scotch & Water...Buckhorn, Ontario ...yes...the snow is flying and we are expecting more!
I'm assuming that you're using the old atlas snap-switches with the solenoid motors. They work, but they're a pain.
Before you go ripping everything up, you should know that the geometry of a snap switch does not match any other make/brand of turnout on the market, so you may have to re-lay the existing trackage.
With that, the following are all pretty nice turnouts (in no particular order)--
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
Hi, and welcome to the great world of construction. I can sympathize with having to re-do trackwork, but it happens, a lot! I use mostly Peco switches on my RR (code 100, & flex track). I sort of fell in love with the way the Pecos have an over-centre spring that holds the points firmly against the rails. You don't mention what sort of roadbed you have, or what kind of switch control you plan on. The Pecos lend themselves very well to hand operation because of that spring. If you contemplate using electric switchmotors, the benchwork becomes a player in which you use, as the Peco brand and most others mount below the track. Some Atlas models have their sw-motor mounted beside the rails. Where I wanted surface-mounted motors, I did some jury-rigging without regrets.
Before getting serious about redoing the track, is there anyone close to you at Buckhorn that has a layout to chat over, or a dedicated hobby shop with a demo? Everyone has a favourite brand, and a reason for the choice. Most work well.
I'm away for the weekend, but keep us posted on your plans. By all means fire the questions to the forum. Somewhere somebody has likely done something that will shine light on what you're up to.
By all means, have fun..... George in Muskoka
Everybody's going to have a different answer to this, so feel free to choose what works best for you on several levels, function, cost, ease of installation, etc. The suggestion about visting local model rails or clubs is a good one, and most are eager to share their insights. Search for clubs in your area. Most of them welcome visitors, and there's nothing like seeing the stuff in action to help you decide which way you want to go.
You don't state what problems you're having with the Atlas switches, but assuming that it's functionality and not apperance, it might be worth trying to work them over before you decide to scrap them out. Many of us, if not most of us have got some Atlas switches lurking somewhere. In my case, I've found them to work fairly reliably, but they can cause problems from time to time.
Generaly speaking, Atlas makes two kinds of switches: snap switches and customline. The snap switches have an all plastic frog, the most recent versions of the customline switches have an all metal frog which is electrically isolated.
Once again limiting myself to my experience, there are three commonly encountered problems with these switches: derailment, lack of contact in the points, stalling over the frog.
As far as derailments go, there are two areas which are problematic, the points and the frog. Often the points are too blunt and snag the wheels causing problems. Solution is to file a bit on the points to taper them so the transistion is smoother. go easy with this, testing by rolling a truck over the problem area hold the truck down with a finger on top of the truck's bolster. You should be able to feel a bump at the problem area, and also feel improvement when you get it right. Remember it's a lot easier to take more off than it is to put it back, so file a little, test and repeat until you're satsified.
On the custom line switches the frogs often are too high which causes problems. The snap switch frog may be too sharp, causing derailments by snagging a wheel. Once again a bit of filing may help. Check frequently with a truck as above.
I've also had problems with the rivet the points are hinged with getting loose and not conducting current. Try cleaning with contact cleaner first, and if that doesn't work, try gently tightening the rivet. Don't get it too tight or you won't be able to throw the switch. If all else fails solder a jumper out of very flexible wire between where you do have power and where you don't.
Stalling over the frogs can be a real problem for short wheel based engines operating at low speed. There's not much you can do to improve the all plastic frogs of the snap switches. That's just the way they are. Assuming you're using custom line switches and do not have DCC,the problem can be easily cured by installing Atlas' Snap-relay. The relay will come with complete wiring instructions and works well with the stock atlas switch machines. More advanced under the table switch machines generally have extra contacts that allow a similar fix, but try a snap relay first..it will teach you how to use these extra contacts.
If you haven't already bought an NMRA standards guage, get one. It will help you trace down a variety of ills no matter whose switches you are using. Make sure you check the gauge of the wheels of all your rolling stock. Switches often get the blame for derailment, when the real culprit is out of guage or otherwise defective wheel sets. Don't hestate to replace suspect wheel sets with quailty aftermarket ones. This is IMHO the best investment you can make towrds reliable operation.
Hope this helps
JBB
Thnx for the feedback
Lot of things to consider
Scotch & Water