bearman wrote: relation wrote:Radio Shack has plastic boxs that the PSXAR will fit right into for a couple of dollars each they work really nice. Yes, I am aware of the box. Problem is, I prefer to have the PSXAR more flush with the surface, otherwise it will be sticking out about 2 - 3 inches and subject to being bumped into etc. Don't ask any more questions. When I built the benchwork, I didn't put much thought into the location and eventual construction of the control panel, so, I am paying for the lapse right now.
relation wrote:Radio Shack has plastic boxs that the PSXAR will fit right into for a couple of dollars each they work really nice.
Yes, I am aware of the box. Problem is, I prefer to have the PSXAR more flush with the surface, otherwise it will be sticking out about 2 - 3 inches and subject to being bumped into etc. Don't ask any more questions. When I built the benchwork, I didn't put much thought into the location and eventual construction of the control panel, so, I am paying for the lapse right now.
I mount mine behind my control panels on stand-offs..
I paint the screw heads black that stick out onto the control panel.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
Bear "It's all about having fun."
Thanks, everyone I think I am on the right track, pun intended. The pics really helped.
I am using the nylon spacers from Lowes and mounting to plexiglass panels holding all the PSXAR and PSX in one place. 4X40 screws or 6X32 depending on item. Still pending on where to mount the Wabbits, on the same panel or by the turnout.
Jeff
Get some plastic tubing from HD or Leows thats used for hooking up ice machines or water filters.
Cut it into whatever legnth you need. I had some left over from a new fridge with ice cobe maker which needed a filter. 3/8' is long enough, just to get some air behind the PSX. I used #5 3/4 Sheet metel screws.
JulesB
Bear,
Here's the photo I promised earlier.....all of the hardware in the photo is available at Lowe's.
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
I just happen to mount 2 of these on thursday morning. I used some 1/4" poly tubing I had laying around. I cut the tubing to 7/8" long and used #6x1-1/4" sheet metal screws.
This is a link to some pix I just post of the units. Unfotunately you can see the mount hardware too well from the front.
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4961&page=17
I'm using the decoders for 2 reversed sections of my layout and the Walther's 90' pre-built, indexed turntable. They are working well so far.
Keep the axels greased and the tender full, we're rollin' now.
Ron
My layout progress posting Named "PRR Schuylkill Division"
Link to my Youtube videos. http://www.youtube.com/user/myowngod2
bearman wrote:And therein lies therub and the purpose of my qestion. Finding a stiff spacer or tube between 3/4 and 1" long that will take a #4 screw but is made of nonconductive material.
Use wood dowels with a hole drilled thru the middle to size for the #4 screws and then cut to length.
I used styrene tubing,cut to one inch length,and 2" stove bolts and nuts.
cacole wrote:The ones I used are the PS-REV from Tony's Train Exchange, and the nylon spacers are 1" long.
I did not realize they made spacers that long.
I went to Lowe's and looked through their specialty hardware drawers. I found some #4 threaded rod about 3" long, along with #4 hex nuts and some nylon tube spacers that fit over the #4 rod. I drilled holes through a vertical member in my benchwork, slid the threaded rod through, slipped on the nylon spacers and tightened up the nuts. I'll see if I can get a photo of the unit in place and post later.
I used nylon standoff sleeves and drywall screws to mount one to the underside of my layout. I don't remember where I purchased the nylon sleeves because I bought them in bulk several years ago, but they have a large enough center hole to allow for a drywall screw to go through. All Electronics has them in various sizes listed in their catalog as non-threaded spacers.